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Thread: Nextel/NASCAR sway bar selection
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Stovebolter's Avatar
    Stovebolter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Harrison AR
    Car Year, Make, Model: 36 Chevrolet Low Cab
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    I've tried to gather information from the sites mentioned above and all I can say is that they talk over my head just a bit. Thank you Dave. You've helped me out a lot. I'm going to go with the lightest bar (.095) and extend my arm to the rear side of the a arms (drill holes down the length) so I can play around with the arm lenght (longer lever carries less load) a little. If that bar is too light I can step up a size and do the same.
    Do not lift a rock only to drop it on your own foot

  2. #2
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stovebolter View Post
    I've tried to gather information from the sites mentioned above and all I can say is that they talk over my head just a bit. Thank you Dave. You've helped me out a lot. I'm going to go with the lightest bar (.095) and extend my arm to the rear side of the a arms (drill holes down the length) so I can play around with the arm lenght (longer lever carries less load) a little. If that bar is too light I can step up a size and do the same.
    Along with that, David, our good friend Mr. L (leverage) is also going to help with the chassis tune up as to the placement of the anti-roll bar arm on the lower A-arm, inboard to outboard mounting points on the lower control arm will also change the amount of leverage, therefore the bar rate can be different, too!!!!

    Imagine a scene at your favorite parts store, "I would like a .750" bar with .083" wall for the back of my '57 Chevy with a 9" Ford rear end, housing floaters, and the dual AFCO shock option, please." Heck, I ordered a set of hole saws for cutting oval holes at Car Quest 2 years ago and they are STILL on backorder!!!!!!

    Another thing I like to do on the anti-roll bar is to have a fixed mount with internal splines for one end on a sturdy upright (mine is a leg on my chassis table), then an adapter onto the other splined end with a nut welded on it---You can use a 1/2" drive torque wrench to 'measure' the bars, ie X degrees of movement on the bar = X ft. lbs. of torque on the torque wrench.....

    I'm shooting for 1g lateral on the 'maro and the '57... gets the boys at the Sunday afternoon autocross really scratching their heads!!!!!!!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  3. #3
    Stovebolter's Avatar
    Stovebolter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 36 Chevrolet Low Cab
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Severson View Post
    Another thing I like to do on the anti-roll bar is to have a fixed mount with internal splines for one end on a sturdy upright (mine is a leg on my chassis table), then an adapter onto the other splined end with a nut welded on it---You can use a 1/2" drive torque wrench to 'measure' the bars, ie X degrees of movement on the bar = X ft. lbs. of torque on the torque wrench.....
    That makes perfect sense to me. Thanks Dave.

    David
    Do not lift a rock only to drop it on your own foot

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