Hybrid View
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01-24-2012 08:01 AM #1
Someone please school me why use a race part requiring all that vs using a commonly available aftermarket bar??Good Bye
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01-24-2012 08:20 AM #2
Its not really necessary if you have some designed around your vehicle already and all it see's is street use. For me, since this vehicle didnt have any such option and it's odd track width, CG, and weight distribution, I imagined at the time that finding a OEM bar that would suit my needs would be a real headache. Plus, hiding it in the spreader bar (front) and support bar (rear) really cleans it up like what I did in the fifth picture on my garage link.
As far as cars like a (eg) 66 Chevelle, I imagine something could be gained by going with the after market options if you were serious into the Pro Tour cars and planned on actually spending time at a track. I doubt very many of these cars actually log any track time. Just for fancy conversation from what I've gathered at area car shows when I talk to these fellas. I'm a member at ProTouring and LateralG and a lot of those guys actually toss their cars through the turns on a regular basis. Some of them are pulling some serious numbers in the turns. Neat to watch a 65 El Camino running the same times as a Vette.
David
Last edited by Stovebolter; 01-24-2012 at 08:29 AM.
Do not lift a rock only to drop it on your own foot
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01-24-2012 08:28 AM #3
I've tried to gather information from the sites mentioned above and all I can say is that they talk over my head just a bit. Thank you Dave. You've helped me out a lot. I'm going to go with the lightest bar (.095) and extend my arm to the rear side of the a arms (drill holes down the length) so I can play around with the arm lenght (longer lever carries less load) a little. If that bar is too light I can step up a size and do the same.Do not lift a rock only to drop it on your own foot
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01-24-2012 03:53 PM #4
Along with that, David, our good friend Mr. L (leverage) is also going to help with the chassis tune up as to the placement of the anti-roll bar arm on the lower A-arm, inboard to outboard mounting points on the lower control arm will also change the amount of leverage, therefore the bar rate can be different, too!!!!
Imagine a scene at your favorite parts store, "I would like a .750" bar with .083" wall for the back of my '57 Chevy with a 9" Ford rear end, housing floaters, and the dual AFCO shock option, please." Heck, I ordered a set of hole saws for cutting oval holes at Car Quest 2 years ago and they are STILL on backorder!!!!!!
Another thing I like to do on the anti-roll bar is to have a fixed mount with internal splines for one end on a sturdy upright (mine is a leg on my chassis table), then an adapter onto the other splined end with a nut welded on it---You can use a 1/2" drive torque wrench to 'measure' the bars, ie X degrees of movement on the bar = X ft. lbs. of torque on the torque wrench.....
I'm shooting for 1g lateral on the 'maro and the '57... gets the boys at the Sunday afternoon autocross really scratching their heads!!!!!!!Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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01-24-2012 04:57 PM #5
I believe this was somewhere around 2015, Rick, Rosie and Johnboy
John Norton aka johnboy