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Thread: 355 sbc question about exhaust sound (need some help here!)
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    36 sedan's Avatar
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    I have experienced it many times, it's not enough of a leak to make it backfire (yet), but the added exhaust pressure will certainly make the baffles unhappy...

  2. #17
    techinspector1's Avatar
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    Son, before you begin reading what I wrote here, don't think that I'm picking on you. I'm just bein' REAL with you and attempting to help prepare you for dealing
    with other folks who might try to take advantage of your inexperience.


    I'm 17.... but there is still alot I dont know.

    Really? I'm 73 and believe me, there's a ton of stuff that I don't know yet.

    355 full roller motor. The whole motor and exhaust system has been redone (with what i dont know)

    First off, you don't know that it's a 355 until you research the casting number and suffix number on the block. It could just as easily be a 262, 265, 283, 305, 307, 327 or 400. Secondly, you don't know that it's a roller motor until you disassemble it and eyeball the roller lifters for yourself.

    I just know that the receipt the older man i bought it from said it was 10 grand for the crate motor and the parts that went into it.

    The receipt that you saw doesn't necessarily belong to the motor that you bought. It could be from another motor that the fellow built, or from a friend's build, or from who-knows-where. Your motor could be one that I listed above with a flat tappet Thumpr cam in it to make it lope. Trust me here son, if this was a $10,000 motor, it wouldn't be signing off at under 5500 rpm's.
    Most any of the fellows on this forum have the knowledge and expertise to build you a 500 horsepower / 500 ft./lbs of torque motor for under $5,000, just so you know.

    It said state and there aren't states here in canada.

    No, but there are 10 provinces and 3 territories to choose from. The whole idea is to know approximately where you live so the answers we give will be intelligent ones (hopefully).

    As for the cam i will never know any of the internals unless i pull it apart and seeing as i dont trust myself pulling apart a $10,000 motor just yet i don't think i will know for a while.

    Again, I doubt you have to worry about it costing $10,000. I'm pretty sure the seller was yankin' your chain just to jack the price up and make the sale.
    If you'd like to research the motor as far as what the casting number and suffix number will tell you, look at these photos....
    Here's the block casting number, on the driver's side rear of the block....

    http://www.speednik.com/files/2013/0...asylum-com.jpg

    Here's the suffix number that will tell you what application the motor was intended for from the factory...it's located on the passenger side of the block just ahead of where the head ends and is adjacent to the passenger side top water pump bolt. It may be hidden behind an alternator or other accessory piece...
    DSC09740A.jpg Photo by dan1s | Photobucket

    Pull either driver's side or passenger's side valve cover and inspect the head for a casting number. This will tell the tale....
    http://www.speednik.com/files/2013/09/stockCastNo.jpg

    If you don't feel confident pulling a valve cover, at least try to match the end casting symbols and let us know what you have....If the motor has aftermarket heads on it (which it damned well should have even if the builder spent only $5,000), the manufacturer's name will be stamped into the metal at the end of the head and can be seen easily without removing anything...a magnet held against either head will tell you whether the head is cast iron or aluminum....
    http://image.hotrod.com/f/31706454+w...ds_test%2B.jpg
    http://www.onedirt.com/photos/data/5...Marks_copy.jpg
    http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...casting_id.jpg

    It would also be helpful to us if you'd give the description and part numbers off the intake manifold, carburetor and distrubutor. Photos are worth their weight in gold....

    .
    Last edited by techinspector1; 01-02-2016 at 01:25 PM.
    NTFDAY, DA34GUY and rdobbs like this.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tie-355 View Post
    Im surprised you could hear that in the vid!!! The front right header comes a little lose on its own every so often so i need to tighten it once every 1 or 2 weeks until i can afford to buy 2 new hooker headers.
    Before you go buyin' headers, there are a couple of different ways to stop header bolts from coming loose. If that is what's happening, let us know, we can share info to help keep the header bolts tight.

  4. #19
    techinspector1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 34_40 View Post
    Before you go buyin' headers, there are a couple of different ways to stop header bolts from coming loose. If that is what's happening, let us know, we can share info to help keep the header bolts tight.
    I suspect they're cheezy headers with 1/4" flanges that bow up from the heat of exhaust and allow leaks. Anyone buying headers should look for minimum 3/8" flanges and if somebody made headers with 1/2" flanges, I'd buy 'em.

    .
    NTFDAY likes this.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  5. #20
    Matthyj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
    I suspect they're cheezy headers with 1/4" flanges that bow up from the heat of exhaust and allow leaks. Anyone buying headers should look for minimum 3/8" flanges and if somebody made headers with 1/2" flanges, I'd buy 'em.

    .
    I will tell you my new best friend in preventing leaks and they are cheap...Nord lock washers, you can use them with your existing bolts and they are reusable. They sell them buy various other names through header manufacturers for a ton more money, but you can get them individually at Fastenal in stainless steel or steel. I put them on and have forgot about them, never had to tighten them again. I talked with a header rep that has some EXPENSIVE fancy products (expanding bolts w/a recessed set screw) and he said, come over here and behind therir booth he said, "Use the Nordlock and save some money" that was at a NSRA event. I also used them on the collectors and not a leak yet, I literally tried about every other option including saftey wiring and these work the best & the cheapest I have found (my opinion only)
    https://www.fastenal.com/products/de...+Washer%2FPair
    (thats the retail cost, you can get them cheaper if you have an account)
    Google Nord lock to see how they work
    techinspector1, 34_40 and 36 sedan like this.
    Why is mine so big and yours so small, Chrysler FirePower

  6. #21
    Tie-355's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
    Son, before you begin reading what I wrote here, don't think that I'm picking on you. I'm just bein' REAL with you and attempting to help prepare you for dealing
    with other folks who might try to take advantage of your inexperience.


    I'm 17.... but there is still alot I dont know.

    Really? I'm 73 and believe me, there's a ton of stuff that I don't know yet.

    355 full roller motor. The whole motor and exhaust system has been redone (with what i dont know)

    First off, you don't know that it's a 355 until you research the casting number and suffix number on the block. It could just as easily be a 262, 265, 283, 305, 307, 327 or 400. Secondly, you don't know that it's a roller motor until you disassemble it and eyeball the roller lifters for yourself.

    I just know that the receipt the older man i bought it from said it was 10 grand for the crate motor and the parts that went into it.

    The receipt that you saw doesn't necessarily belong to the motor that you bought. It could be from another motor that the fellow built, or from a friend's build, or from who-knows-where. Your motor could be one that I listed above with a flat tappet Thumpr cam in it to make it lope. Trust me here son, if this was a $10,000 motor, it wouldn't be signing off at under 5500 rpm's.
    Most any of the fellows on this forum have the knowledge and expertise to build you a 500 horsepower / 500 ft./lbs of torque motor for under $5,000, just so you know.

    It said state and there aren't states here in canada.

    No, but there are 10 provinces and 3 territories to choose from. The whole idea is to know approximately where you live so the answers we give will be intelligent ones (hopefully).

    As for the cam i will never know any of the internals unless i pull it apart and seeing as i dont trust myself pulling apart a $10,000 motor just yet i don't think i will know for a while.

    Again, I doubt you have to worry about it costing $10,000. I'm pretty sure the seller was yankin' your chain just to jack the price up and make the sale.
    If you'd like to research the motor as far as what the casting number and suffix number will tell you, look at these photos....
    Here's the block casting number, on the driver's side rear of the block....

    http://www.speednik.com/files/2013/0...asylum-com.jpg

    Here's the suffix number that will tell you what application the motor was intended for from the factory...it's located on the passenger side of the block just ahead of where the head ends and is adjacent to the passenger side top water pump bolt. It may be hidden behind an alternator or other accessory piece...
    DSC09740A.jpg Photo by dan1s | Photobucket

    Pull either driver's side or passenger's side valve cover and inspect the head for a casting number. This will tell the tale....
    http://www.speednik.com/files/2013/09/stockCastNo.jpg

    If you don't feel confident pulling a valve cover, at least try to match the end casting symbols and let us know what you have....If the motor has aftermarket heads on it (which it damned well should have even if the builder spent only $5,000), the manufacturer's name will be stamped into the metal at the end of the head and can be seen easily without removing anything...a magnet held against either head will tell you whether the head is cast iron or aluminum....
    http://image.hotrod.com/f/31706454+w...ds_test%2B.jpg
    http://www.onedirt.com/photos/data/5...Marks_copy.jpg
    http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...casting_id.jpg

    It would also be helpful to us if you'd give the description and part numbers off the intake manifold, carburetor and distrubutor. Photos are worth their weight in gold....

    .
    so first i know for sure its a 355. Its a 350 thats been bored out to 355.
    second i know its roller because i have seen the rollers in it when i replaced the vavle cover gaskets and because of the bag of extra roller rockers i was given with it
    third the receipt is from that motor and it was for the crate motor, the parts, and the labor to put it together and it was for that motor.
    third it didnt say anything but states, however i did find out that it accepts putting in the first letters of the province im in so i was able to change it
    fourth again it was for that motor and i dont plan on ripping apart an expensive running motor for no reason
    last i want to make it clear that i do know a good amount. i have done all the work on it so far (clutch, tranny rebuild, valve cover gaskets, re doing the intake (plaining it and replaceing gasket) clutch fan, tranny mounts, carb work and tunning and some electrical stuff) so please dont think im just a stupid kid that believed what ever the guy told me. i did my research i made sure it checked out. so please dont come on here saying stuff like that. thanks

  7. #22
    Tie-355's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 34_40 View Post
    Before you go buyin' headers, there are a couple of different ways to stop header bolts from coming loose. If that is what's happening, let us know, we can share info to help keep the header bolts tight.
    will do man!

  8. #23
    Tie-355's Avatar
    Tie-355 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matthyj View Post
    I will tell you my new best friend in preventing leaks and they are cheap...Nord lock washers, you can use them with your existing bolts and they are reusable. They sell them buy various other names through header manufacturers for a ton more money, but you can get them individually at Fastenal in stainless steel or steel. I put them on and have forgot about them, never had to tighten them again. I talked with a header rep that has some EXPENSIVE fancy products (expanding bolts w/a recessed set screw) and he said, come over here and behind therir booth he said, "Use the Nordlock and save some money" that was at a NSRA event. I also used them on the collectors and not a leak yet, I literally tried about every other option including saftey wiring and these work the best & the cheapest I have found (my opinion only)
    https://www.fastenal.com/products/de...+Washer%2FPair
    (thats the retail cost, you can get them cheaper if you have an account)
    Google Nord lock to see how they work
    k thanks for the info man. however im tempted to drop the money i have been saving on a twin turbo package for the motor. it comes with new headers and everything for the turbo units. just need to do all the plumbing! but im on the fence about it :/

  9. #24
    Tie-355's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
    Son, before you begin reading what I wrote here, don't think that I'm picking on you. I'm just bein' REAL with you and attempting to help prepare you for dealing
    with other folks who might try to take advantage of your inexperience.


    I'm 17.... but there is still alot I dont know.

    Really? I'm 73 and believe me, there's a ton of stuff that I don't know yet.

    355 full roller motor. The whole motor and exhaust system has been redone (with what i dont know)

    First off, you don't know that it's a 355 until you research the casting number and suffix number on the block. It could just as easily be a 262, 265, 283, 305, 307, 327 or 400. Secondly, you don't know that it's a roller motor until you disassemble it and eyeball the roller lifters for yourself.

    I just know that the receipt the older man i bought it from said it was 10 grand for the crate motor and the parts that went into it.

    The receipt that you saw doesn't necessarily belong to the motor that you bought. It could be from another motor that the fellow built, or from a friend's build, or from who-knows-where. Your motor could be one that I listed above with a flat tappet Thumpr cam in it to make it lope. Trust me here son, if this was a $10,000 motor, it wouldn't be signing off at under 5500 rpm's.
    Most any of the fellows on this forum have the knowledge and expertise to build you a 500 horsepower / 500 ft./lbs of torque motor for under $5,000, just so you know.

    It said state and there aren't states here in canada.

    No, but there are 10 provinces and 3 territories to choose from. The whole idea is to know approximately where you live so the answers we give will be intelligent ones (hopefully).

    As for the cam i will never know any of the internals unless i pull it apart and seeing as i dont trust myself pulling apart a $10,000 motor just yet i don't think i will know for a while.

    Again, I doubt you have to worry about it costing $10,000. I'm pretty sure the seller was yankin' your chain just to jack the price up and make the sale.
    If you'd like to research the motor as far as what the casting number and suffix number will tell you, look at these photos....
    Here's the block casting number, on the driver's side rear of the block....

    http://www.speednik.com/files/2013/0...asylum-com.jpg

    Here's the suffix number that will tell you what application the motor was intended for from the factory...it's located on the passenger side of the block just ahead of where the head ends and is adjacent to the passenger side top water pump bolt. It may be hidden behind an alternator or other accessory piece...
    DSC09740A.jpg Photo by dan1s | Photobucket

    Pull either driver's side or passenger's side valve cover and inspect the head for a casting number. This will tell the tale....
    http://www.speednik.com/files/2013/09/stockCastNo.jpg

    If you don't feel confident pulling a valve cover, at least try to match the end casting symbols and let us know what you have....If the motor has aftermarket heads on it (which it damned well should have even if the builder spent only $5,000), the manufacturer's name will be stamped into the metal at the end of the head and can be seen easily without removing anything...a magnet held against either head will tell you whether the head is cast iron or aluminum....
    http://image.hotrod.com/f/31706454+w...ds_test%2B.jpg
    http://www.onedirt.com/photos/data/5...Marks_copy.jpg
    http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...casting_id.jpg

    It would also be helpful to us if you'd give the description and part numbers off the intake manifold, carburetor and distrubutor. Photos are worth their weight in gold....

    .
    ok so i would like to clear some things up with you.
    first the motor is a 355. it was a 350 that was bored out to 355.
    second the receipt was for that motor. it was the crate motor and parts and some of the labor for machining and shipping etc. now i would also like to point out that it was in CND which is much lower then the USD so it would look like it cost more in your eyes.
    third i know its a roller motor because i have seen the roller rockers when i replaced the valve cover gaskets because of some leaky oil
    last i want to point out that i do know a good amount like i said. i have done a lot of work on that car (clutch, tranny rebuid, tranny mounts, clutch fan, intake gasket and sent the intake to be re plained, carb work and tunning, valve cover gaskets, and basic work like oil and stuff so please dont treat me like im an average teen that bought a fast car to be cool. I love cars, i have been working on them since i was small there are just some specific questions about them i have.

  10. #25
    36 sedan's Avatar
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    Tie-355, 17yo and taking on an 85 TA, I'm PROUD of you!
    Your automotive knowledge, skills and fun will grow in the years to come, enjoy! Your motor sounds awesome and I'm sure will perform and represent you well, hang in there with us, we just get a little cranky here and there.
    DennyW and Tie-355 like this.

  11. #26
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    Ok son... Just kidding...Just joking tech...
    Usually on header gaskets, I run 2 sets. 2 per side. Depending on the type you buy. I use the ones where I can soak them in some warm-hot water for awhile to make them pliable. Install them, tighten the bolts down evenly.

    As far as locks, that depends on the type bolts you plan to run. Regular type head, (hex), get some of the metal locks you bend up on the side of the bolts. But, before you do that...
    Start the motor and get it up to operating temp. Even drive it lightly for a block or two. Shut it off. Let it cool down. Now, using a torque wrench, re-tighten the bolts to torque specs, evenly, double checking the final torque. Once that is done, now bend your locks into place. Even with the thinner style flanges, this will work, because with the double gaskets, it takes up any deformity in the header flanges. Within reason of course.
    jerry clayton and 36 sedan like this.

  12. #27
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    Roller rockers don't make it a roller engine-----
    NTFDAY and Matthyj like this.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
    Roller rockers don't make it a roller engine-----
    well no but i know it is a full roller motor. im just stating that i have atleast seen the roller rockers thats all man!

  14. #29
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    Welcome to CHR:

    Good on ya for wrenching on your own ride! I know I was lucky to have pizza and gas money when I was 17. A couple things to help us know what you've really got:

    "...i know its a roller motor because i have seen the roller rockers when i replaced the valve cover gaskets..." you do know that when we speak about "a roller engine" the reference is to the lifters - not the rockers? There are many a flat tappet cam engines that have roller tip rockers - which is what you have indicated seeing replacing your valve cover gaskets.

    I'm also curious why you had the intake "re plained" - I'm assuming that you mean milled - but for what reason?

    I like the sound - but agree with others here that you'll need to dig a bit deeper and start providing some engine and head numbers to allow us to help you out.

    Best,
    Glenn
    "Where the people fear the government you have tyranny. Where the government fears the people you have liberty." John Basil Barnhil

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by 36 sedan View Post
    Tie-355, 17yo and taking on an 85 TA, I'm PROUD of you!
    Your automotive knowledge, skills and fun will grow in the years to come, enjoy! Your motor sounds awesome and I'm sure will perform and represent you well, hang in there with us, we just get a little cranky here and there.
    thanks man!

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