Thread: 355 sbc question about exhaust sound (need some help here!)

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Son, before you begin reading what I wrote here, don't think that I'm picking on you. I'm just bein' REAL with you and attempting to help prepare you for dealing
with other folks who might try to take advantage of your inexperience.

I'm 17.... but there is still alot I dont know.

Really? I'm 73 and believe me, there's a ton of stuff that I don't know yet.

355 full roller motor. The whole motor and exhaust system has been redone (with what i dont know)

First off, you don't know that it's a 355 until you research the casting number and suffix number on the block. It could just as easily be a 262, 265, 283, 305, 307, 327 or 400. Secondly, you don't know that it's a roller motor until you disassemble it and eyeball the roller lifters for yourself.

I just know that the receipt the older man i bought it from said it was 10 grand for the crate motor and the parts that went into it.

The receipt that you saw doesn't necessarily belong to the motor that you bought. It could be from another motor that the fellow built, or from a friend's build, or from who-knows-where. Your motor could be one that I listed above with a flat tappet Thumpr cam in it to make it lope. Trust me here son, if this was a $10,000 motor, it wouldn't be signing off at under 5500 rpm's.
Most any of the fellows on this forum have the knowledge and expertise to build you a 500 horsepower / 500 ft./lbs of torque motor for under $5,000, just so you know.

It said state and there aren't states here in canada.

No, but there are 10 provinces and 3 territories to choose from. The whole idea is to know approximately where you live so the answers we give will be intelligent ones (hopefully).

As for the cam i will never know any of the internals unless i pull it apart and seeing as i dont trust myself pulling apart a $10,000 motor just yet i don't think i will know for a while.

Again, I doubt you have to worry about it costing $10,000. I'm pretty sure the seller was yankin' your chain just to jack the price up and make the sale.
If you'd like to research the motor as far as what the casting number and suffix number will tell you, look at these photos....
Here's the block casting number, on the driver's side rear of the block....
http://www.speednik.com/files/2013/0...asylum-com.jpg

Here's the suffix number that will tell you what application the motor was intended for from the factory...it's located on the passenger side of the block just ahead of where the head ends and is adjacent to the passenger side top water pump bolt. It may be hidden behind an alternator or other accessory piece...
DSC09740A.jpg Photo by dan1s | Photobucket

Pull either driver's side or passenger's side valve cover and inspect the head for a casting number. This will tell the tale....
http://www.speednik.com/files/2013/09/stockCastNo.jpg

If you don't feel confident pulling a valve cover, at least try to match the end casting symbols and let us know what you have....If the motor has aftermarket heads on it (which it damned well should have even if the builder spent only $5,000), the manufacturer's name will be stamped into the metal at the end of the head and can be seen easily without removing anything...a magnet held against either head will tell you whether the head is cast iron or aluminum....
http://image.hotrod.com/f/31706454+w...ds_test%2B.jpg
http://www.onedirt.com/photos/data/5...Marks_copy.jpg
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...casting_id.jpg

It would also be helpful to us if you'd give the description and part numbers off the intake manifold, carburetor and distrubutor. Photos are worth their weight in gold....

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