Thread: Everybody that is currently building a car...

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Your gettin' there a little at a time. I know about "a little at a time". Good job.


Update. Here's a pic. of the dash I got a few days ago.
And today I got the hat for the carb. I guess there's no chance this is gonna' fit the Ol' Carter 2b.

Hey, a little at a time is the only way, then you have time to plan! Looking very cool Pro70, what all is going in the dash? That carb is hugh man, that hat would fit me!

I like the looks of that paint shawnlee, sounds like it is tough too. Are you also saying it is expensive also or cheaper?

8.99 a quart
I did not want to blow a 1 or 2 hundred dollars on wasted paint......as this is the second go around on the color,I sanded the last coat pretty much completely off ,before filling and priming ,because of improper body work This time I was much much closer,so close infact ,that I will just use spot putty in a couple of places that are like small chips.Block sand and shoot for the third and hopefully final time.It looks good now at about 3 or 4 feet away,but when you look close you can see a couple of spots that need more work,...oh well ,thats how you learn.In total it will be 3 cans used at 8.99 a quart,its taking almost 3/4 of a quart to cover the white area.
If I was using regular automotive paint that would have been a couple hundred bucks sanded back off
But theres always a price to pay ,and thats is, its hard to work with and sets up at the speed of tar
I am havin fun and I am learning..........plus the local parts house has got to be freakin out at the amount of sand paper sold in the last month

Dang, that is wild! Good luck and I hope that it turns out lasting, I will use it myself if it does.

Pro70, I have a question for you. Would you say that when you hit WOT hard, the engine just dyes is more timing or carb?

Good question . Could be either. Are you having problems with hesitation?

Heres a better shot of the small imperfections that I need to take care of,pretty close for never doing this before..........
This is day 3 after shooting the paint on and its starting to set now
I should be okay to use spot putty on these small spots????
You can see the spot in the upper left hand corner of the pic and the bottom of the lower pic you can see the sand marks....This look like what the spot putty was made for ?

I'll go with Denny, probably floats set too low. One of the things I don't like about Eddy's, you have to pull the air horn to set the floats.

Originally Posted by DennyW

I doubt it would be filter. Could be float evel though. If it's to low for the acelerator to get a good portion of gas for the shot.

It might be instructive if you could tell us how low fuel level caused by misadjusted floats would be different from low fuel level caused by a dirty filter slowing fuel flow into the carb. Oh, and you might explain how you can dismiss one or the other without actually diagnosing the car and with limited fault description.

Originally Posted by brickman

Pro70, I have a question for you. Would you say that when you hit WOT hard, the engine just dyes is more timing or carb?

Tony, could also be fuel filter is partially plugged.

Can't I would say Bob, so here is what I know for sure: New fuel filter, new holley 650 single feed/vac sec, distributor has 1000 miles on it. All I have set on the carb is the idle. It sits on an air gap duel plane manifold. I just bought a timing light but I am wondering where it should be set, not a stock cam.

Originally Posted by DennyW

ps: Bob, I was simply giving my opinion, same as you. So, prove it to me it's not a float problem ?

Like you my attempt was to make sure Tony was thorough in his evaluation since his first explanation was modest and not everyone understands WOT in the same context without further reference. However, I'll point out you took the first shot here, so keep that in mind when talking about being polite. As for proving it's the floats, that's up to Tony, I don't pretend to know it all, especially at long distance. As for needing anything else from you I can do my own Google searches thank you.

Originally Posted by DennyW

As far as a google search, what's your point there Bob ??

This will be my last reply on this as I'm sure all this is just too exciting for the room.

Nothin' wrong with using Google, great resource, do it myself, though I try to do it as links so the original author "gets credit" rather than me. When I see you taking attaboys for something like the following that, based on syntax, spelling, and punctuation isn't like most of your posts, it just makes me wonder............

Originally Posted by DennyW

See if this helps some. My engine was rated at 330 hp. Average was about 12 mpg. After I reworked it, I now have 575 braking horse power, and with the 780 cfm carb, get 15 mpg. The difference between the stock horse power to the new, plus, the increase in mpg, is much more efficient. So, I have increased my thermal efficiency. And the greater the amount of air-fuel mixture, the greater the power produced by the engine.


2 main factors. We talk about this all the time, infiguring braking horse power, and engine horse power.

The term efficiency means the relationship between the actual and theoretical power output. Volumetric efficiency is the ratio between the amount of air-fuel mixture that actually enters the cylinder and the amount that could enter under ideal conditions. The greater volumetric efficiency, the greater the amount of air-fuel mixture entering the cylinder.

Increasing volumetric efficiency increases engine performance. Volumetric efficiency can be increasedin the following ways: Keep the intake mixture cool by ducting intake air from outside the engine compartment. By keeping the fuel cool, you can keep the intake mixture cooler. The cooler the mixture, the higher the volumetric efficiency. This is because a cool mixture is denser or more tightly packed. Modify the intake passages. Changes to the intake passages that make it easier for the mixture to flow through will increase the volumetric efficiency. Other changes include reshaping ports to smooth bends, reshaping the back of the valve heads, or polishing the inside of the ports. Altering the time that the valves open or how far they open can increase volumetric efficiency. By supercharging and turbocharging, you can bring the volumetric efficiency figures to over 100 percent.

MECHANICAL EFFICIENCY is the relationship between the actual power produced in the engine (indicated horsepower) and the actual power delivered at the crankshaft (brake horsepower). The actual power is always less than the power produced within the engine. This is due to the following: Friction losses between the many moving parts of the engine. In a four-stroke-cycle engine, a considerable amount of horsepower is used to drive the valve train. From a mechanical efficiency standpoint, you can tell what percentage of power developed in the cylinder is actually delivered by the engine. The remaining percentage of power is consumed by friction, and it is computed as frictional horsepower (fhp).

THERMAL EFFICIENCY is the relationship between actual heat energy stored within the fuel and power produced in the engine (indicated horsepower). The thermal efficiency figure indicates the amount of potential energy contained in the fuel that is actually used by the engine to produce power and what amount of energy is actually lost through heat. A large amount of energy from the fuel is lost through heat and not used in an internal combustion engine. This unused heat is of no value to the engine and must be removed from it. Heat is dissipated in the following ways: The cooling system removes heat from the engine to control engine operating temperature. A major portion of the heat produced by the engine exits through the exhaust system. The engine radiates a portion of the heat to the atmosphere.

Simple term, packing more in, and making it more explosive, will increase the output.

Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

This will be my last reply on this as I'm sure all this is just too exciting for the room.

Originally Posted by DennyW

This is also my last reply to you on this Bob.

Glad you both can end this disagreement in an adult manner. Now we can get back to the meat of the thread

Hey DennyW, I consider everyones opinion very seriously and I always have, please don't ever think that your not welcome to help anytime. Takes a tribe to teach I believe.

It is not doing anything wrong until I nail it hard, at any speed. It is worse from a dead stop, it won't do anything but die. If I run her up to about 3000 or 3500 in low and nail it there it dies. If I just slowly let her build it will rev but very flat and dyes bad close to 4800 rpm which is probly reving her to high.

I think 90% of the diagnostics over the computer is little more then an educated guess. It gives the man a good place to start looking for a problem, but without being there and hearing/feeling the problem. Heck, I've been doing this hot rod stuff for 40 years......but I see no reason to get all upset if someone disagrees with a diagnosis and suggests something else.... As I mentioned, at best you can get the man with the problem looking in the right place, anyway... Float, filter, big deal. At least he's looking at the carb. If one isn't bad, check the other. This isn't a contest, and no prizes are given and I doubt anyone keeps score...