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Just reading the thread, and no pics, ( slow cell phone ), but has anyone ever done a remote location heat exchanger for the trans, maybe re- routing a heater hose?
I know you guys with your old rods have to be real imaginative to shoe horn everything in
I was thinking of that too. Also could make a collector to bring heated air off the exhaust pipe.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firebird77clone
And the tranny fluid temperature would be controlled how?Quote:
Originally Posted by 36 sedan
The heater core off the radiator would maintain engine temp, so no problem there. An air exchanger would require a door with thermostatic control. Both do-able.
Yeah, it might be conceptually do-able, but Jack's already told us he's struggling to even find a spot for his remote transmission "cooler" since the spot in front of the radiator isn't available any more, and he's working with a channeled lowboy coupe.
Jack, I'll be looking forward to seeing how you decide to solve your issues over the next couple of months, getting the coupe ready for those toasty Texas summer days. Thanks for keeping us in the loop on your project.
Jack, I understand Baja racers use as many as three under frame fan driven coolers which are readily available in several sizes if you can find a place under the car. Such coolers can be used for trans fluid or engine coolant. The problem is that the drive shaft and mufflers don't give much room but maybe behind the rear pumpkin under the rear apron there is room for a remote cooler using long hoses. The fan makes up for the lack of a direct air stream. Of course some sort of screen would have to protect the cooler fins. I already have a few rock dings on my oblique under-fender set up.
For 36 Sedan: now that my car is back in my garage and the set up forced on it does seem to work I just have to forget the whole affair except not to go back to that shop again. The problem with the Sherriff is that the mechanic doing the work is a part time Deputy Sherriff!
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
On my truck, they make transmission fluid pans with hollow cooling rods running thru the bottom of the pan, front to back allowing air to flow thru them while driving, might be an option along with a remote cooling sight.
Derale makes them for most auto transmissions here is a link with some specs http://www.etrailer.com/Transmission...le/D14204.html
http://www.355nation.net/forum/attac...-jeep_body.jpg
Jack, I have that type trans pan and it sure can't hurt cooling because it adds more fluid volume as well as having tubes but it does reduce ground clearance. I just received my Speedway Catalog #356 and on page 213 there is a Derale "Remote Fluid Cooler" for about $180. It appears to be 5" thick and might fit under your rear pan. Unfortunatley I mounted my battery in the rear between the exhaust pipes and could not find a place for that type cooler and so I ended up with the angle mount of a passive cooler under the right front fender.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rooder
So what are you fella's gonna say when you realize that Jacks suspected concern is the fluid is to cool??? :eek::LOL::LOL::LOL::rolleyes:
He did mention it earlier in the thread that he was hoping to ADD some heat to the trans fluid.
Oh, do you mean like what I posted in post #19???????
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
Mike, you're such a diplomat!!Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Shame on him! If his watch commander knew he would be severely reprimanded! Not only does he know he broke the law, but he swore an oath to uphold it. Meaning he is expected to be at a higher standard and less is just not exceptable. Imagine the SHOCK on his face if you had called the Sherif and one of his co-workers had to settle it, then report him back to the commander!Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Shillady
I'll let it go with that, BUT please remember we live in AMERICA, we do not have to put up with dick-dators.
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I was holding my hand over the distributor..... and next thing I knew......... it blurted out... rofl..Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Sorry for the hijack.... Jack!
Now back to our regularly scheduled programming!
Jack, from looking at your car, it looks like you could put one of the round finned coolers under your frame rail behind your front link bars. At first I thought it might look out of place. But, you can see the exhaust pipe there so I don't know how out of place a cooler would be. I think that'd be the best place as far as clearance and fitment since there is no room underneath. Atleast then you would have something on there for a cooler. Fenderless cars definitely take some imagining to get ebrything to look right when you place it. :LOL:
Wow. I step out for a day to change my transmission pan gasket and rear seal and there's a party going on here. Thanks for the coments, guys. Here is some background.
- I already have that Derale pan.
- I have virtually NO room under the car for anything.
- I have no heater and don't want one. ;)
- Ideally, I need to heat the transmission fluid AND keep it at a reasonable level.
- I will be able to eventually find a location for the trans HX somewhere near the front of the car - perhaps low mounted between the radiator and the front of the engine - and maybe even some type of small scoop.
All that stuff will have to wait until I solve the A/C fitment.
Right now, I'm struggling with finding a condenser that will fit. I have one that is the right width, but is too long. (photo somewhere above) I'm looking at another that has the perfect length, but the width leaves me very little room to get 90* ells installed to route the house outside the radiator. I've made a wooden mockup and just need to get some info on a couple of fittings.
Attachment 59964
I'm curious, you are obviously living in a warm climate zone, why do you need to heat the tranny fluid instead of cooling it?Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
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Automatic transmissions require some heat to operate properly, and the temperature needs to be contained within a reasonable band. That's why OEM applications all run an HX in the radiator. The radiator gives the fluid the basic operating temp, and a trans "cooler" is added if necessary. Ideal operating temp recommended by my supplier is 160 - 175F. Anything over 175 reduces trans life.Quote:
Originally Posted by 36 sedan
Info from my Bowtie Overdrives instructions: The fluid temperature control system is designed to properly manage thetransmissions operating temperature. Most people don't realize that routing thelines from the transmission through the radiator is designed to bring the transmission up to its proper operating temperature and then maintain it at that temperature. This is the reason that the factory’s transmission hard lines always run to a heat exchanger located in the vehicles thermostatically controlled radiator system. We have yet to see an auxiliary type cooler mounted anywhere that was capable of doing this job properly. Contrary to popular belief, a good transmission temperature control system run through a heat exchanger located in the exit tank of the vehicles radiator will normally hold the transmissions fluid temperature 30 to 50 degrees F lower than the engines indicated operating temperature. The transmission temperature will be very stable with a system like this unless the radiator is bad or the transmissions heat exchanger located in the radiator is ineffective.
HenryRifle - I never knew this always thought the radiator cooled the fluid, not heated it up!
Jack, this is a photo of my radiator and condenser before the car was reassembled. Since it worked on my '32 radiator, I would assume it would work on yours as well. I got it from Yogi's.
Jack,
Looking back at your post #29 it shows the front of your frame which ends right at the crossmember above the axle. You mentioned that your radiator sits out in front of the frame as opposed to sitting on tabs like most do. Just how does your radiator mount? Is it supported fully by the grille shell?
And the bottom tank on that radiator is wayyyyyyyyyyyy bigger than it needs to be just to collect coolant for the pump---there is more than enough room(volume) in it to put any size x changer---------
After going back and looking at all the pics----I think its about time that you make the simple dicision to find a radiator shop that will fix the issues with your lower tank by straightening out the front of the lower tank and while they are in there to install an trans heat X---then your condenser will fit, you will have the trans cooler solved---etc----the way your going isn't improving the workings or reliability of your car-------Contact Walker, C & R, etc for a combo package that will fit or have them do a custom sized unit, but eliminate the 2 problem areas you have-----( there are others in the rod custom radiator biz also)
Steve - It can heat or cool depending upon the temp of the fluid from the trans.
Lynn - Not a chance. It's too tall, and mine is slanted.
Roger - There's a lower bracket that attaches to the frame and an upper bracket that bolts to the grille shell. See photos below:
The pads on the frame shows where the shell attaches. The bottom radiator hose goes through the opening on the left side of the frame. Of course, I had to modify it because the original "builder" didn't put it in the right place.
Attachment 59971
In this photo, you can see the flat-head allen bolt that holds the radiator to the grille. There is another hole just above where the radiator strut from the firewall is attached. On the bottom, there are two holes to attach the grille shell to the frame. I'm going to replace that twisted piece of flat bracket that came with the package.
Attachment 59972
In this photo, you get a decent side view of how everything attaches. Substitute the top of the frame for the table top and you can see how far below the front frame rail the shell drops.
Attachment 59973
Jerry, I understand what you're saying, but squaring off the bottom of the tank will totally foul up the looks of the grille from the front, and at this point, I'm just not going to go out for a new, custom-built radiator. I will find someone to cut open the tank, install a HX coil and give me an inlet/outlet in the back. Derale makes a small frame mount cooler that I can mount crossways beneath the frame.
Final note. Think about this, when I'm done, I'll have a chiller on the front and a fan on the back - all installed within the grille shell. That's quite a package.
Parts arrived today - unrelated to the radiator, condenser or AC.
Attachment 59983
Attachment 59984
nice ram horns!
Sanderson shorties, Jet Hot polished silver coating.
Got the same finish on my Sandersons only they are a bit bigger(460 ford)! :)
Was wondering if yours came with instructions not to use head gasget only RTV?
Steve, they may have - I don't remember. In any case, I use Earl's Pressure Master header gasket sets. Check Jeg's PN 361-29DB3B. Not cheap, but totally worth it. Solid as a rock and no leaks - ever.
Another vote for Earl's here! In fact, I think somebody here recommended them to me - may have been Jack! They're the best, and once you have them the inserts are replaceable at ~50% of the total cost.
It was me, Roger. :D I have the replacement inserts sitting on the shelf in the garage. Another advantage is that the header bolts don't loosen.
I have had those same headers on my car for ten years, and while they have grayed out, there is no sign of any deterioration. I used Stage 8 locking fasteners, and I have had no leaks from the original set of gaskets. Sanderson's are worth the money.
I haven't quite figured out the trans cooling and the condenser mount, so I've been fiddling around adding some parts that I've been accumulating for a while. Before and after photos are attached. I was originally going for a rather basic driver, but . . . well, you know . . .
The trap that we all seem to fall into! :LOL::LOL: Shiny parts! :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
Looks nice though!:HMMM::D
"If it don't go, chrome it." Since it wont be going for a while, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
It's said that shiny don't make it fast. But that usually comes from the guys who wish they had some shiny parts! LOL...
Iff'n it don't go, chrome it!
" I drove the whole dang thing into the chroming tank.
Before I could get out my little coupe-ie sank.
The dangest thing you ever seen:
An all chrome driver in a chrome machine!"
- hotrod hootinany -
I finally found a condenser that fits the grille shell and sits flush on the radiator core. However, it was too thick at the top. Since the radiator mounts to the grille shell and not to the car frame at the top, I decided to just tilt it back a bit. My first attempt was a bit much, as it only has about a half-inch clearance between the radiator tank and the A/C compressor nose cone. I'll build the real brackets, dress them up a bit, then I should be good to go - except I'm still working on the trans heat exchanger system.
The last photo shows most of the shiny pieces added in the last few weeks.
That ought to work, Jack! The right stuff is usually available just takes a bit of searching! Things on their way back together for a bit of cruizin' soon????
Soon is a relative term, Dave. ;)
