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11-16-2013 08:47 AM #1
Hello Jack (Never say "Hi Jack" in an airport!). I am just saying hello since you were helpful to me early in my roadster build. I have avoided the A/C problem with yes/no side curtains seasonally on my roadster. However I had to face this problem even for a trans cooler and solved it with an "angle mount" under a fender but you don't have fenders! One last resort might be a mount in the trunk with outside scoops and a louvered lid, just a last ditch possibility since you have no fenders to hide it. I only show this to indicate the oblique mount will work if you can get it into an air stream. Also if you have no choice but to place it in front of the radiator the next question is whether the additional heat will mess up the cooling of your big block? I am so sick of cooling problems with the tiny 1929 radiator for just a SBC 350 that I hope your radiator can cope with the added heat from the exchanger since the very time you will want to use the A/C will be in hot weather! Otherwise your new polished accessories are beautiful!
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodderLast edited by Don Shillady; 11-16-2013 at 10:07 AM.
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11-05-2013 04:47 AM #2
So yours has the 90 down at the top, and the straight fitting out from the bottom but not the funky bends, right? Looks very similar to mine, and I used the U-Bend lengths from VA to extend mine, up & back from the bottom one, ending horizontal pointing aft; and down & back on the top one, ending parallel to the bottom one, held in place by a common clamp/bracket to the side of the radiator.Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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11-05-2013 06:42 AM #3
One option you might think about is going to a tubular finned aluminum transmission cooler which you can mount elsewhere. That would provide you with plenty of room to mount the condenser in front of the radiator. That is the route I chose when I built my car but that would mean more work and additional cost. But it may ultimately be a better way to make this transition. My two cents . . .
Lynn
'32 3W
There's no 12 step program for stupid!
http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson
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11-05-2013 10:09 AM #4
Lynn, I am going to move the transmission cooler. The problem is finding a reasonable place to put it considering that the car is channelled over the frame and I have a triangulated rear suspension (P&J). Besides, that cooler is way too large. The trans temp never moves the needle on my 100-250F gauge.Jack
Gone to Texas
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11-05-2013 06:52 PM #5
One reason trans coolers(heat x) are in the radiator is to WARM the fluid to operating temps------------
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11-05-2013 08:33 PM #6
Jerry, I realize that. While I have the radiator out, I'm going to see if I can find someone to install an HX. There's very little space for it, though. The radiator comes to a point at the bottom just like the grille shell. I'll post a photo when I get it pulled.Jack
Gone to Texas
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11-08-2013 02:44 PM #7
Gone from on the road to up in the air. Everything in front of the engine except for the front axle is coming off.
Teardown small.jpg
Since I have to add some wiring for the A/C and I have to paint the dash, I'm doing some rework in the wiring. All of the miscellaneous single wires going to the dash are being replaced with three multi-pin connectors. The only problem was remembering / figuring out what I did 7 years ago.
Wire Small.jpg
I also pulled the headers to have them coated. From the looks of the exhaust ports, I may be running a little rich. What do you think?
Exhaust Small.jpgJack
Gone to Texas
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11-08-2013 02:52 PM #8
If it's been doing a lot of around town cruizin', probably just from that. What I can see of 1 ex. valve looks clean! Are the ports maybe just sooty black from chuggin' around????Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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11-08-2013 03:09 PM #9
Yeah, Dave, I haven't had a chance to wind it out recently. Mostly running around town.Jack
Gone to Texas
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11-08-2013 04:37 PM #10
I found this little item, which should help route the A/C lines in one or two of the very tight places.
90 Close.jpgJack
Gone to Texas
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11-09-2013 10:17 PM #11
A new neighbor came over to introduce himself while a friend and I were talking about how to get the condenser in my '34. His first question was, "What year is it?" When I said the body is a glass reproduction of a '34 Ford, his second question was . . . wait for it . . . you guessed it . . . "Was it a kit, then?"Jack
Gone to Texas
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11-10-2013 05:43 AM #12

If he only knew..... I'm tempted to say, "Yeah, remember the AMT kits? It was sorta like that...."

Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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11-10-2013 10:33 AM #13
Ah the "Kit" question! Little understanding that even the most complete body and chasis "packages" just don't bolt together and bam your done! Some people think hot rods with fiberglass bodies are like the old glue together model kits with complete instructions and all parts included!
"
"No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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11-11-2013 09:17 AM #14
Henry! You mean you forgot to check the little box in the kit options for a condensor? I am sure you can go back to the kit company and get that part. It should be simple.
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11-15-2013 07:06 PM #15
Some Progress
It's a little discouraging to have a car that was driveable in this state - but it's the only way I'm going to Get A/C.
0 Teardown.JPG
In order for the condenser to fit, it will have to be offset to the driver's side. However, with it painted black, it won't show up.
0 Rad Front.jpg
The condenser is about 2" too long, so it will have to be mounted at a slight angle. There's ample room for clearance, though.
Oh - and those cheesy brackets Gibbon used to mount the radiator will probably have to stay.
0 Rad Side.jpg
I am concerned about how to mount the condenser. I have some ideas, though. I believe that the sides of the radiator are simply stretchers between the upper and lower tanks. I think (to be verified first) I can drill into them and use short, sturdy sheet metal screws.Last edited by Henry Rifle; 11-15-2013 at 07:24 PM.
Jack
Gone to Texas





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