Thread: Meller's "Last" Hoorah - '62 Fairlane

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Great progress. You'll be on the road in no time

That's cool! ....get it? rofl.. sometimes I just crack myself up!

Looks like your on your way now! Fingers crossed all your hard work pays off in spades!

Originally Posted by 34_40

That's cool! ....get it? rofl.. sometimes I just crack myself up!

Looks like your on your way now! Fingers crossed all your hard work pays off in spades!

would be better if it paid off in diamonds....


oh, and like Nick said about your crack.....

With that Shroud of Meller you'll be the coolest guy in town.

Mike, stay off the crack.

Mike should be on the Stage - - - as a matter of fact there's one leaving at 3pm - - - be on it !

Maybe I cracked the Shroud of Meller on'a diamond shaped stage??? Whew!!


must be the heat!

Originally Posted by 34_40

Maybe I cracked the Shroud of Meller on'a diamond shaped stage??? Whew!!
must be the heat!

Isn't that from Shakespeare ?

Boy I hope that's all it is

I've had air in the line before that has caused weird problems with coolant, and heating. Seems strange the thermostat didn't open, do you know what temp the thermostat is set to open? Was the radiator full to the top when you started?

Are you sure the temp gauge is accurate or were you using a thermometer?

thanks for the reply, Sto, the rad was full to the top but there wasn't any in the engine block but after it got hot and I let it cool - - - I put the rest of the coolant in - - - - then I cranked it and it did the same dang thing - - - it will just ease up and then when it gets to 190 it goes in a hurry to 200 - - - this may be a Gomer question but "COULD it be a defective radiator cap causing this???"

I'm at a loss because I haven't done any thing (?that I know ifS?) to change it except install a new shroud and fan and move the tranny line to the bottom tank of the rad ?????????

Em,
I always drill a small, nominal 1/8" hole in the thermostat disk to let the air bleed out of the engine while filling the system. Without the hole it is too easy to get air trapped at the thermostat housing, and the thermostat won't open until the bi-metal spring is surrounded by coolant. Catch 22, and very frustrating. Pull your stat, drill a hole and then listen as you fill and you'll hear the air bubbling out through the hole. Works like a charm, and provides the added benefit of a very slight flow through the closed stat to get the warm water circulating faster.

Originally Posted by stovens

I've had air in the line before that has caused weird problems with coolant, and heating. Seems strange the thermostat didn't open, do you know what temp the thermostat is set to open? Was the radiator full to the top when you started?

Sorry bout the absence but I had to cook lunch - - - "house work is my full time job - - - screwing up Fairlane's is just partime". Sto, I just installed a 180 degree thermostat - - - wish I'd known about the 1/8" hole that Roger mentioned a couple of months ago.

Originally Posted by randyr

Are you sure the temp gauge is accurate or were you using a thermometer?

Randy, all ll I had to tell was the temp gauge under the dash.

Originally Posted by rspears

Em,
I always drill a small, nominal 1/8" hole in the thermostat disk to let the air bleed out of the engine while filling the system. Without the hole it is too easy to get air trapped at the thermostat housing, and the thermostat won't open until the bi-metal spring is surrounded by coolant. Catch 22, and very frustrating. Pull your stat, drill a hole and then listen as you fill and you'll hear the air bubbling out through the hole. Works like a charm, and provides the added benefit of a very slight flow through the closed stat to get the warm water circulating faster.

Thanks Roger, as I mentioned above, I just finished installing a new 180 thermostat and I guess that "hind sight is really 20/20 but I'll have to address the stat at a later time.

TWO QUESTIONS: First one is, when the upper hose gets warm/hot doesn't that mean that the thermostat is open? Secondly, could it possibly be the radiator cap? The reason I ask is that's about the "only" improvement (using the work loosely) I haven't made to the cooling system, except for a new radiator.

One thing new that I've noticed is that it is puking out the overflow tube more than it has ever done before.

Thanks for your replies, gentlemen.
Em

Have you fixed that line from the pump to the manifold????????????

Most likely you have a bunch of air in the block/heads------and the air will expand more than liquid and cause that bubbling-----------

You can reverse fill it by removing the upper hose and pouring the coolant into engine until it reverse filla the radiator to the top

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Have you fixed that line from the pump to the manifold????????????

not yet but it's on my list but just not at the top - - - I'm almost sure that the heater core leaks because it's not connected - - - another BB fix that I'll have to contend with at a later date but right now I'm just trying to reap the benefits of my hard work and it's not cooperating.

If I keep cranking, warming, cooling and filling, will I eventually get the air bubbles out?