Thread: Meller's "Last" Hoorah - '62 Fairlane

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Get a longer spacer-----

That water pump is painted black on a blue engine so I assume its been replaced recently----It might be a shorter pump than whats available--I remember that Ford had several different issues with sbf being too close to the front end on some mid 80s stuff and did some different pumps/front covers---

I don't know where to tell you to look, but there are longer spacers

I also see that there are some fasteners thru the rad core---what do you have on the front of radiator?

Also---for a shroud--I used to source alum ones from I think Dayton---bases for roof fans---to made shrouds for the pro stockers

I also did one of those fiberglass fans on my 55 back then---one day it tossed a blade right pass my ear when I revved it up checking the timing---also the pic shows 4 blade fan---get the 7 blade that was on many vehicles--the 4 won't get the job done even with a shroud

And of course there is the option of the Tauras or Mk8 electric fan-------

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Remember the fan needs to sit halfway into the opening of the shroud so it won't short circuit the airflow. There are lots of shrouds in there to give you ideas too, and they have the mounts! The front of that car seems to be close enough to a Mustang to fit this I think.

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Get a longer spacer-----

That water pump is painted black on a blue engine so I assume its been replaced recently----It might be a shorter pump than whats available--I remember that Ford had several different issues with sbf being too close to the front end on some mid 80s stuff and did some different pumps/front covers---

I don't know where to tell you to look, but there are longer spacers

I also see that there are some fasteners thru the rad core---what do you have on the front of radiator?

Also---for a shroud--I used to source alum ones from I think Dayton---bases for roof fans---to made shrouds for the pro stockers

I also did one of those fiberglass fans on my 55 back then---one day it tossed a blade right pass my ear when I revved it up checking the timing---also the pic shows 4 blade fan---get the 7 blade that was on many vehicles--the 4 won't get the job done even with a shroud

And of course there is the option of the Tauras or Mk8 electric fan-------

Wow! That'll definitely get after a cooling problem, but since the PO said that the only problem was it getting warm on a hot day in slow traffic I don't think I'd make it that big of a project unless it proves to be necessary. If it were mine I'd get a good shroud in place that fits the tilt of the fan and fits within maybe 1/2" of the blade tips, and throw a 180F stat in it and see how it does. If it still struggles I'd look at a five or seven blade fan to replace the four blader. I don't like the fiberglass fans either - dangerous units, IMO. I really don't see a burning need to get the fan any closer to the radiator - if you get the shroud right all the air it pulls will be through the radiator, even if the blade's a foot back. Like Mike mentioned, having the fan blade 1/2 way into the shroud hole is key. Should work fine, IMO, and easier than moving stuff around.

For that coolant loss---get a modern rad cap of a little higher pressure for a coolant recovery system and run it into a catch can so it can recover the coolant as it cools down----------

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

For that coolant loss---get a modern rad cap of a little higher pressure for a coolant recovery system and run it into a catch can so it can recover the coolant as it cools down----------

Yep, that's a good catch from the photo, Jerry. A coolant recovery tank is a natural first step to solving the cooling issues, keeping the system filled and eliminating corrosion.

Em,,is the radiator clean inside?? I would be tempted to take it out and give it a good hard flush with the hose..Or,,get some radiator flush and flush the thing while its still in the car,and remove any scale that might be in the engine at the same time..

Good point, Robin, and I do need to fllush it out for sure - - - - that's on my list also especially since I just recently got it to where I can pull it out and do some flushing and checking - - - thanks for the headsup tho

Ran down to the local ethanol distilerry this evening and got her up to around 55+ for a mile or so. She ran smoothly and quite except for the &^$&*@$*@ cherry bombs and NASCAR side dump (that will change very soon) - - - she shifted real smoothly also but is still idling too fast for my taste even after she's warmed up to 190 so I backed it down to 700rpms (per the tach) but I may have to change that the next time I try and crank her - - -we will see.

Decided to just put a shroud on and not mess with the fan/spacer/etc for right now and see what happens during this July and August - - - I'll give her a good flushing also and put some fresh mixture in the rad. Also gonna order some Taylor wires and an organizer/loom/divider/thingamajig which I'll probably install first.

Front disc brakes aren't powered so I have to remember the hard pedal when in traffic but I've been there before so if "oldtimers disease" don't get me then it should work ok no more than I'll be driving it 'cause I drive them like they are made outa glass (not like they are stolen---been there done that -- ouch)

thanks all,
Em

there should be 2 idling screws one for idle when running and one for idle with choke on

are you speaking of the idle adjusting screws that have tapered seats and are located at the bottom of the bowls???

Nope there should be two near your linkage on the side of the carb

Originally Posted by MelloYello

are you speaking of the idle adjusting screws that have tapered seats and are located at the bottom of the bowls???

Em, the two you're referring to are Idle Mixture Screws, used to adjust the Fuel/Air Ratio at idle. If everything's right those can be adjusted to the mid-point between the lean rpm decrease point and the rich rpm decrease point, or even better adjusted for max vacuum. The one's Charlie is talking about are the ones you & I traced in the manual for normal idle speed and the fast idle speed with choke engaged, the one that rides the cam hooked to the choke plate by linkage.

Originally Posted by MelloYello

are you speaking of the idle adjusting screws that have tapered seats and are located at the bottom of the bowls???

NO! those are the idle mixture screws. The "main idle" is on the drivers side and the choke idle is behind your electric choke. The choke idle sets the fast idle speed.
You already know the other as you just slowed the motor to 700rpm.

RSpears beat me to it! :-)

OK, I think I got it now - - - - I'm thinking my problem is the choke idle then so I'll try it next time it's warm - - - - I backed the idle mixture screws out according to the manual (which is on my crashed computer at the moment) and it runs just great down the highway up to around 60mph anyhow.

don't shout at me Mike

(I miss my 2 one barrel Rochs they only had two screws and a manual choke- - - - come back Jim Bob come back)

Em.. After the car is warmed up, behind the choke - where the cam mechanism is, see if you can move the cam up or down just a little bit. If it's free to move then it isn't holding the idle speed of the motor. If you moved the main idle screw and the idle came down, I'd say it isn't touching the choke cam.