Thread: One Way To Build A '32 Hyboy

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Richard- Thank you, the fuel temperature seems to be very critical on these engines. My exhaust is so close to the fuel tank I was concerned about fuel temperature.

J.Robinson-Thanks, good to be back. If you look at page 13 you can see the inlets for the air passage on the drivers side is for the fuel cooling and on the passenger side is for the air conditioning plumbing. Both outlets are at the area where the muffler is closest to the floor, trying to get some air movement back there to keep the interior temperatures down and cool the fuel tank.
Ken

Some really first rate fabricating as always, ken! Sure do agree on the "glad it's over" on the plumbing.... All them hours of work, and few will ever see it!!!!! Oh well, I guess it's the old saying, "Any job worth doing, is worth doing well.". Anyway, some very innovative use of otherwise wasted space!!!!

Great vapor lock prevention! Anyone who has driven the high plains of Utah, will probably know about vapor lock. Spent three years doing summer programs throughout the western U.S. Spent my time on the side of the road, and the phone dealing with it, on our old dodge ram 15 passenger vans. We tried many solutions, including putting a second electric fuel pump near the gas tank as a push pump to speed the time the gas was in the fuel line. Sort of worked. In the end, I called the Dodge engineers directly, and they suggested dumping a quart of transmission fluid into a full gas tank on fill up. It changes the vapor point in the gas, and evidently(according to them) doesn't hurt the engine, actually works as a lubricant. Don't know if it hurt the engine, but never got vapor lock in that part of the country ever again!
I like your solution better Ken!
And while we are on the subject of fuel lines, since my new fuel tank is in the bed, and not the cab, the person who started this project, routed a rubber fuel line down the frame rail to the cab. Should I replace this with a metal line, or any special fuel line you would recommend(sorry for the highjack, but oh the questions and memories this thread brought up!)

Dave- Thanks, it is so time consuming, trying to figure out the sequence of installing and taking it apart. The coolers go in by themselves then have to slide forward to hook up at the front then slide in the brake line and the return line then slide the coolers back to hook up the rear of the coolers.


Steve-I would use steel tubing everywhere you can, as long as you put rubber or stainless braided wherever you have vibration. Like going from the motor to the chassis, areas like that. Use a good flaring tool and you shouldn't have any problems.
Ken

Originally Posted by Ken Thurm

Dave- Thanks, it is so time consuming, trying to figure out the sequence of installing and taking it apart. The coolers go in by themselves then have to slide forward to hook up at the front then slide in the brake line and the return line then slide the coolers back to hook up the rear of the coolers.


Steve-I would use steel tubing everywhere you can, as long as you put rubber or stainless braided wherever you have vibration. Like going from the motor to the chassis, areas like that. Use a good flaring tool and you shouldn't have any problems.
Ken

Thanks Ken.

Great engineering Ken, every inch of the girl is used for something, very cool. I noticed the 2 low holes behind the grill, are those where the air goes in and down the frame rail?

Originally Posted by brickman

Great engineering Ken, every inch of the girl is used for something, very cool. I noticed the 2 low holes behind the grill, are those where the air goes in and down the frame rail?

Yes, I'm using those to hopefully cool things I have no idea if it will work. But at 70 mph something should happen, I hope
Ken

Ken - nice write up in Street Rodder this month about your truck(pgs 178 - 180) !! One question though - did you mean for the doors to be a different color primer or did you run out of one can and the next for the was a bit different The truck really does look great

IC2-Sorry for the long delay on answering you, it was one of those things I was going to get around to someday. I put it off and then one day I got the call from Street Rodder and there was no time. I really wish I had done it, it looks pretty goofy huh?
On the progress on the roadster, the wiring has begun. The car actually has two wiring harness in it. One fuse panel under the dash that controls the ecu and all related items, fuel, ignition,throttle and cooling. Then there is a Ron Francis fuse panel in the truck for everything else. The Dearborn Deuce is capable of operating like a regular car, top, door glass with power windows. Which means I can lock myself out of my car. As dementia and Alzheimer's set in I want to incorporate as many back up systems as possible. The car has solenoids on the doors and the truck, the windows can also be operated by remote. Inside the car there is mechanical means to open the doors and deck lid. I hid a cable to mechanically open the drivers door in case the battery fails this allows me to enter and get to the battery. Here are some shots, the one of the B pillar is the two levers to mechanically open the deck lid and the tulip panel for the top.
One more little challenge, this whole things has to be removable without cutting a wire. It will all unplug and be removable for paint after I drive it for 500 miles.
Ken

Ken the details never end! The amount of thought that went into your car is amazing! Well done.

Man that engine harness is crazy, that took some figuring out huh Ken? Are you able to run all that on one alt.? Say a 100 amp?

Ken,
I think I have almost as many wires in my passenger compartment but that spaghetti on your engine for sure way out does my 8-10

Steve- Thanks, the buttons in the B pillar are Dearborn's factory mechanical levers.

brickman- Yes, one 130 amp alternator, it's going to get a work out It's one thing to get it all wired but making it so it comes apart is another thing It's just patience and help from a friend of mine, I couldn't do this on my own.

IC2- I thought I would show it this way first because when it's done, hopefully, you won't see any wires.
Ken

Originally Posted by Ken Thurm

IC2- I thought I would show it this way first because when it's done, hopefully, you won't see any wires.
Ken

Ken - after seeing your work - if it's seen - it's because it has to show. I do have to admit, hiding a bunch of wires in my case is proving to be a challenge as my AAW module is behind the passenger's seat in a compartment and all the wiring will be hidden in a loom or two (hopefully) by the carpet.

Well here is more of the wiring. In my red car I put everything under the seat, thinking everything in one place is good. I won't do that again. It makes it very hard to work on there are layers of wiring. So this time I have spread everything out, fuel pump, battery, and stereo in the back, all the buttons switches and lights and ignition switch is in the seat riser. The ECU is under the dash. Here are a few photo's. One of the red car for comparison.
In the last photo starting on the left is the air conditioning controls, next is a 12 volt out let for Mama's phone, next is passengers power window switch, next is the button to open the cowl vent, then the button to open the license plate to fill the gas tank, then drivers power window switch, Matthew's 12 volt accessory for a Game Boy, ignition and headlight switches.
Ken