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Thread: One Way To Build A '32 Hyboy
          
   
   

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  1. #331
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
    Itoldyouso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    We buy them like you Ken, a bag of 1000 at a time, and they go REAL quick when you are wiring. Lots get wasted because you put them on temporarily to hold a bundle while adding wires and then you cut those off and toss them.

    I found a little trick that cuts down on waste. If you put the wiretie together in it's normal fashion, the teeth bite in and it won't come back apart. BUT, if you turn it around and put it together inside out, the teeth are not grabbing but it will still hold temporarily due to friction. To remove it you simply slide it apart. I learned this trick a little late in the game when wiring my T, but used it on Don's T and we saved a lot of wasted ties that way. When you are ready to finally put the real ties in place you can then turn them the right way and the teeth hold them tight.

    I also found a miniature set of side cut pliers at Sears that cuts the unneeded end off of the wire tie with no sharp edge. It cuts clean and close to the tie so it looks neat and won't cut your fingers when you go probing around up in there.

    Ken, your car is looking great. What a complicated, sophisticated build. It hurts my head when I see all the high tech stuff guys like you incorporate into your builds, and you make it look so easy. An alternator is high tech for me.

    Ken, have you considered building a car to compete in the GNRS? You really should. You could definitely pull it off.

    Don

  2. #332
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    I second the motion for Ken to do a car for the GNRS! How about this one? It certainly has the design details...

    Good grief! What a can of worms! Headlights, taillights, alternator, starter, and conventional gauges are no problem, but that system is a real puzzle. Ken, I commend you for your perseverence and your intelligence. I would never even attempt to try wiring all that modern electronic stuff...
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  3. #333
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    I third that motion, matter moved foward by popular consent. It's even in Pomona CA Ken. I'll even volunteer to wash and wax it and deliver it clean and sparkling!
    Seriously Ken, I think you should go for it!
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  4. #334
    IC2
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    Only 1200 ties, Ken?? Your wiring is looking good!! Since I have been doing mine now with lot of other chassis and body projects for over two months and am still at about 80% can understand how those ties "disappear". With a heluva lot fewer wires since the most exotic piece I have is a full MSD/carb setup, I've probably used well over 500 - and probably still have another 250 or more to go and am out of the small blacks. I do use some good electrical tape, (Scotch #33) inside my few lengths of convoluted tubing , but am well aware that it will eventually get gummy.
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  5. #335
    Don Shillady's Avatar
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    Henry Rifle, I know what you mean. I found some spiral plastic tube that is probably better.

    Don Shillady
    Retired Scientist/teen rodder

  6. #336
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    try using velcro tape strips until you have all the wires then do the wrappiong

  7. #337
    Ken Thurm's Avatar
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    brickman-I use one and sometimes two layers of shrink wrap when I am splitting the harness. Then when it goes into the frame I will either weld tubing inside the frame and slip the wiring in it this giant thick shrink wrap. This stuff is brutal
    Don- I use lots of tie wraps because I think it makes it look neat and tidy. I never use electrical tape to cover the wiring. My thinking is, let everything as exposed as possible in case you need to chase something down. But if you are in an area that needs protection use shrink wrap and radius all the sharp corners.
    Henry Rifle- Yep I agree.
    Steve- No electric seats, I'm using a 1500 series Odyssey battery and a 140 amp alternator. Thanks Steve I think we will be done with the wiring this week. I hope
    Mike52- I use these gasket less clamps. The tapered rings are steel and the clamp is stainless. You just put it together and slip in your tubing from both ends line everything up where you want it and tack the rings on, then take it apart and finish welding.
    Don- That is a great idea, thanks! I have done that before by accident and never thought of using it as a temporary. I don't think I would do well at the GNRS, there isn't enough billet on it
    J.Robinson-Thanks for the kind words, O.K. I will enter this one in the show
    Steve- O.K. but I'm going to enter it in your name so I won't be embarrassed
    IC2- I think there is a tie wrap monster in the garage
    jerry clayton- There is another good idea!
    Ken
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  8. #338
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
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    Ken, I just noticed you dash treatment, very cool. I like that rib that runs between the gauges and curves down on the ends.........very art deco kinda. How did you do that?

    Don

  9. #339
    Ken Thurm's Avatar
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    It's just a piece of aluminum with a machined groove in it. The idea is to run similar strips in a big arc threw the doors, just to break the interior up a little.
    Ken

  10. #340
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    Ken, I believe you could enter GNRS, your work is out standing. If you do enter I will come out there to help, you know get coffee.
    BradC
    Some days it's not even worth chewing thru the restraints !

  11. #341
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    Don't encourage him Ken, he will REALLY SHOW UP!!

    Don

  12. #342
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    I Thought you guys were kidding about the GNRS, but after reading your post again, maybe you aren't. If you are than the joke is on me, if not, then that's probably the greatest compliment one could get.
    This is the reality on entering that show. I would have to re do all the chrome and anything that is already polished. The paint and interior will be that kind of quality already so I wouldn't have to do anything else there. To make the wheels up to par is something I have already decided to do. We are going to make new outer bands for them and eliminate the valve stem on the outside, put it on the inside, then have them chromed. Once I put a few miles on it and blow it apart, it couldn't be driven again till after the show. It has to start and be driven in to the show, that's the rules. Honestly, it would cost an additional $10,000 to $15,000, that's if we build our own display for it at work.
    I think it would be very memorable and fun to do this, but I have to really think this threw. There is still time to send in my entry, but I don't know the process on accepting a car in this category. To go from the suede palace to building #4, I didn't win anything there I sure don't believe I would win anything over there, but just the experience of doing it would be fun.
    If I do it I want to see all those volunteers show up
    Ken

  13. #343
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    I've got news for you bud, we WEREN'T kidding! Your builds are in a whole different league than most, and certainly good enough to compete with the best. We don't want to push you into something you don't want to do, but.............

    Don

  14. #344
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    Yeah! What Don said! Also, maybe this car could be a contender for the Ridler award at Detroit..?
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  15. #345
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    We are serious, and Brad will show up, I'd even try to be there!
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

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