Thread: One way to build a '32 sedan
Hybrid View
-
10-17-2010 07:12 PM #1
A lot of interior to framing work is held in place with velcro on boeing airplanes
-
10-17-2010 08:20 PM #2
I'd consider a good silicone caulk. It will hold enough to stop resonation, but has enough flex to let the exterior expand and contract with the weather.Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
-
10-18-2010 07:08 PM #3
Last edited by RestoRod; 10-18-2010 at 07:10 PM.
Remember, Freedom isn't Free, thousands have paid the price so you can enjoy what you have today.
Duct tape is like 'The Force.' It has a light side and a dark side, and it holds the universe together.
-
10-18-2010 08:56 PM #4
Hi Ken,can I add a little advice on the sealer adhesive? Any urethane sealer/adhesive needs minimum 2mm of thickness between the two surfaces to bond to full strength so if your bows are within that it should work fine. Squeezing to much sealer out of the joint is only waste product. Sikaflex brand of urethane's make a wide range of product for heat and elasticity that would allow for any movement required.
Sorry if I am bombarding you with information that you probably are fully aware of.
I maybe a little crazy but it stops me going insane.
Isaiah 48: 17,18.
Mark.
-
10-18-2010 09:53 PM #5
Not at all, thanks for the information. My plan was to take my finger and push the excess in bonding the bow to the roof on both sides. Doesn't sound like that is going to work.
Ken
-
10-18-2010 11:48 PM #6
Oh please use disposable gloves when using product like that as once on your skin very very hard to remove and you certainly don't think your lovely wife Tina will want your dirty mitts all over her.

I maybe a little crazy but it stops me going insane.
Isaiah 48: 17,18.
Mark.
-
10-18-2010 06:24 AM #7
Thanks Ken, I knew I wouldn't get off easy.
I wouldn't worry about connecting the ribs to the roof, foil backed dynamat will slip between them (about 1/8", 3/16" thick), never fall off and kill any harmonic problems.
I use a rubber roller and a heat gun, or lay it outside on the concrete on a 80°+ day to help it form, and adhere betterCustom Powder Coating & Media Blasting
-
10-18-2010 07:02 PM #8
Jerry - Great story, there are a few more around here I really miss. I think they leave us way to early.
I want to thank all of you for the warning on the caulking. I looked at what I had today and it isn't the 3M, It's a type that flexes so it allows the material to move and it is good to, I think, 600 degrees. I remember asking the guy about the heat because I'm going to have this thing powder coated in primer again when I get the roof done and I know they use about 400 degrees in the oven for drying.
The roof lays right on those bows I made there is no room for insulation or Velcro. That's why I made them so the roof is solid. I think when I apply the caulking it will squeeze out next to the ribs to hold it in place.
Ken
-
12-14-2010 04:17 PM #9
Good lookin' roof ya got there Ken, it came out really nice! Takes a lot of time and patience to do it right, but it's still a lot quicker then doing it all over!!!!!Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
-
12-14-2010 06:16 PM #10
Nice flat and clean lines! Are you guys planning anything color wise for the paint job? Or classic primer gray? I like the gray because it hides most of my dings!"
"No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
-
12-14-2010 06:38 PM #11
roadster32 - Thanks Steve, I'm really pleased with it. I have to tell you I was dreading welding it in. I just didn't want to screw it up after all the time I had in it.
Dave Severson - Thanks Dave, yep, to cut it back out would of screwed up more than what I started with.
stovens - No this one is going black with the blood red interior that match the wheels. I think this thing will come out pretty straight. I'm only capable of going so far then the body shop will put the final touches on it and paint it.
Ken
-
12-15-2010 09:35 AM #12
Ken,
To paraphrase the others: Wow, looking great!
Jack.www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44081
-
12-15-2010 01:54 PM #13
Thanks Jack, I appreciate it.
Well, I have decided to make a change of plans. Thanks to Robot (Mike in Tucson) phone call.
I have been looking for another quick change for my truck project. I wanted an original Halibrand with the bolt on bells like I have in my sedan. So I could make the bells out of stainless steel to go along with the theme of the truck. Just so happens Mike has this Winters quick change from his Dearborn Deuce project that he isn't going to use and only wants $500 for it. So I pulled the rear end out of the sedan and will use that one in my truck and put the Winters in my sedan.
Ken
-
12-16-2010 05:19 AM #14
Nice score on the axle does he have more.......LOL. Still outstanding work as usual.
BradcSome days it's not even worth chewing thru the restraints !
-
04-05-2011 03:09 PM #15
I take it thta the stringers and purlin are bonded and not welded to the skin? What do you use?





35Likes
LinkBack URL
About LinkBacks
Reply With Quote


Yep. It’s pretty sad.
Dead!