Looks sweet, Dave!!! I love drip free pans!!!:DQuote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Looks sweet, Dave!!! I love drip free pans!!!:DQuote:
Originally Posted by IC2
I didn't show the engine oil pan with a drippy drain plug http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/s...onfused013.gif(but only an occasional drop i.e. 1-2 a month)Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
If only my truck dripped so little.....:(Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Well having trouble getting a real car finished , so I decided to get some one to do this . HA HA it's still will take a few months .
Attachment 53548
Some Progress,
After several days of checking my wiring I still could not understand why my turn signals will work but not the headlights and tailights. The turn signals prove the headlights and tailights were grounded so I phoned up my friend who did some amazing circuit repairs for me when we both were working for University research. It only took him about ten minutes to find the headlight fuse was missing and then he plugged in the radio which I had wired but was not sure to apply power to. Now I have:
1. A working windshield wiper which parks automatically to hide in the oak bow.
2. Working turn signals complete with little green indicator lights on the dash.
3. A working brake light.
4. A working heater fan (two speeds).
5. A working cigar lighter suitable to recharge a cell phone or locator.
6. A working radio/CD player with "quadraphonic sound" (two speakers in the rumble/trunk and two in the cowl).
7. Working headlights with hi/low beams and tailights when the headlights are on.
Still to work out are the absence of instrument lights, the lack of a red high beam indicator, and a lack of horn response. The horn may have an incorrect relay so I will be checking that but I will be listening to the radio when I am checking the wiring from now on! After that I will have to hope my digital speedometer was not fried when I soldered the connector while attached to the digital unit. If it is fried I will have to purchase a replacement.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Whoah, Bobby! That's a way bigger committment than building the car!!:LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
It's a good thing you have big guns or might have had to chop it more...in half!
Of course, now you'll have to keep those guns pumped up to keep the fenders from sagging when you're 80!!:):)
That's great news Don! I'll bet you feel good about the progress now! I hope you don't need a new speedo! That reminds me, I gotta program mine! :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Shillady
Your a better man than I Bobby! As a diabetic on insulin I have to stick needles in me for a reason. You paid someone for that pain! :eek::LOL::eek: ROFL.. It does look very nice though:) How many hours to sit for that part shown in the picture?Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
No one can say you aren't dedicated! HAH!:3dSMILE: Now get back to working on her! No more sitting around starin' at your arm! :LOL:**):D:)
Great news Don. When (IF?) I get back to that side of VA, I'll be looking for a ride. I'm just about ready to move mine out of the sealed up 3rd garage space in my basement so at least I'll have that ride. I do have to correct one minor error in the replacement battery wiring I just finished and maybe, just maybe - this weekend, but probably sometime next week, weather permitting
Bobby - needles make me ---- well let's say I really don't like them. Nice bit of dedication tho
lol There is no pain now days , and guys hopefully this will get the stang done so I can get on it . This was 1 1/2 hours with at least one more sitting .
Its dedicated to one of the first old tins I had . I cleaned up parts and things Sunday when it was warm . Little at a time then pppsssst air comes out and the end is done .
Randy these are Ace Derringers so the car is small !!!!
Hey Bobby, cool tat, it needs chopping, and a blown motor, go back for a makeover.......:CRY::CRY::LOL:
Nice tat! That looks really nice!
Rich it has a chop made him do that while I watched .
40 Thanks and welcome .
Continuing to sweat out my wiring, my five year old grand daughter sat in my car and played with the knobs and lo and behold the parking lights finally came on. However I cannot do it again! Does anybody recommend a better light switch than the present Speedway part No. 910-64051? I ordered another one on the chance that the first one is defective. What are you using IC2?
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
I am just using factory out of cars , I don't think they should be trouble .
Most of the switches commonly used in rods are GM based. You should be able to run down to any local parts house and match up a switch with your original.Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Shillady
IC2 has taken a hiatus and probably won't answer soon.
I have a GM switch, but the thing that bothers me is that the running lights stay on with the headlights and since there is no seperation b/w the headlights and running lights in the bucket they bleed together. I bought a secondary switch to turn off the running lights unless I flip that switch first. Hopefully that will work for me, but have you guys run into this with a factory GM switch?
I got my headlight switch from Ron Francis as part of the wiring kit. It turns off the front running lights when the headlights are on. ( I'm pretty sure it does anyway! ) and I have noticed that some switches do keep the running lights on with the headlights, and others do not. But I'm not sure if it's "manufacturer" specific or model specific?.?.?Quote:
Originally Posted by 35fordcoupe
If interested, I can see if I can find a part number.. on a side note, this switch has a crappy dash light dimmer control.. really only has 1 position where the gauges are lit.:(
If the running lights don't stay on with the headlights on I would be interested to know the part number. I didn't even think that maybe some switches would operate differently. I have a bit of time in modifying the switch to mount in the dash the way I want, but that is just the outer housing so I could still swap that over to a different model.
OK, I don't anticipate getting to the shop 'til tomorrow evening. I'll verify the switch operation and if it is as I think it is.. I'll look through the paper work and get the number for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by 35fordcoupe
Gm and Gmc headlight switch prior to 1966 trucks are all non power to the running lights, most owners that buy these truck will jump the posts on the back side of the switch to have the running lights on with head lights...as seen here 1964-1966 GMC Park Lamps
LMC truck shop ( item number 8 ) http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cbe/full.aspx?Page=100
Rich that is some good info and diagrams
Well just trying to help if I understood him right..!
I need new exhaust on my `37, haven`t as of yet choosen a set of hedders, but want to stay with 2.5 tube, x-pipe and been looking at the flowmaster hushpower series or the super 40`s, any and all you guys advice on them anti up, here`s they`re lasted video on them, filmed here in Sacramento where they originated from.
Flowmaster Muffler Comparison - YouTube
In my setup the parking lights should be OFF when the headlights are ON because the parking lights are used as the turn signals. I just received a new Speedway No. 910-64051 and will try again.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Don, just wanted to verify, your running (parking) lights and your turn signals are 1 lamp with 2 filaments, correct? like a 1157 probably.... is that correct? Our setups are similar so I was curious..Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Shillady
34-40,
Mostly correct. Although I bought my headlights at a NSRA meet, I believe they are from TPI. They have two filament bulbs and a row of yellow LEDs along the bottom in a "smiling" crescent shape.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
That's good information to know Rich! I'm glad I haven't cut up my wiring yet and installed a second switch on the parking lights. So if I'm understanding correctly, I should be able to get say a '66 pick up switch without "marker" lights and still plug that into my harness? I understand the mod making the parking lights stay on (although I don't get why..), but I'm not sure how I could modify the existing switch to keep the parking lights off since its not like I have the two wires connected together..
35fordcoupe, what Don Shilady and I have, is a switch that shuts off the front "parking/run" lamps when the headlights are turned on. I believe mine is that way and am going to verify that info tonite. Don got his headlight switch from Speedway and I got mine from Ron Francis. If my switch is the way I think it is, I'll post a part number for ya'll... Don has P.N. posted above. That should give you some choices in switches...
It didn't sound like Don had everything ironed out yet so I don't want to jump on that part number yet. My running lights are used as turn signals too but the turn signal that is on flashes while the other side stays on. Not necessarily a problem I'd just rather have the running lights off. If you could let me know what you find I would appreciate it. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
I have found you can't debug the circuit while connected so I took the unit completely out and have studied it with an ohm meter. I think I have it figured out now but will confirm as soon as it works.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Well, I understand the switch now (Speedway 910-64051) but I must have something wrong in the headlight wiring or a lack of ground for the parking lights. I still have headlights and tail lights when the switch is pulled all the way out but nothing when the switch is pulled half way out. Here is what I found with the ohm meter.
Switch Pull......Battery.....Acc/Park.....Running Lights.....Head Lights
.....0...............+12V...........0...................0.......................0
...1/2..............+12V.......+12V.............+12V.....................0
...Full..............+12V...........0...............+12V..................+12V
Based on these readings I think the tail lights should be connected to the Running Light terminal so the tail lights will be ON for both the Park light option and ON with the headlights.
Then the Parking lights should be connected to the Acc/Park terminal so the Parking Lights will only be on when the pull switch is 1/2 out.
Sad to say this does not work on my setup so I must have some other problem and I will need to check the headlight wiring again. On my currect setup a test light does not follow the same pattern as when the switch is disconnected so I must have a ground loop somewhere or a lack of ground for the Parking Lights. This probably means unwrapping all the wires to the headlight units. This is frustrating to say the least!
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
I always thought that it was `60-`65 that was setup that way but LMC lists it to 66, I know for sure `60-65 are because I`ve had several of them and parking lights and headlights independent, but had always thought that GM made the switch in `66, the reason for the jump wire was just to look like the `66 parking lamps on all the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by 35fordcoupe
I just finished soldering the ground wires for the headlights and the parking lights together so they now have the same ground for sure. However I still do not have parking lights even though the headlights are very bright! On Easter Sunday afternoon my 5 year old grand daughter sat in my car and messed with every knob on the dash. At that time I had the parking lights and the tail lights both connected to the "running lights" terminal and now I see why the parking lights were on (briefly). The TPI tech guy told me some folks run the parking lights together with the headlights so there is a yellow tinge from the yellow LEDs as for a fog light effect but I want the greater contrast from the yellow turn signals against the white headlights rather than against a yellow parking light background. The only good information in this message is that you can hook the parking lights to either the Acc/park terminal OR the Running Lights/Park terminal as you can see from the little chart I gave above. The only requirement is that the tail lights have to be on the Running Lights terminal in either case when using the Speedway 910-64051 switch. However this problem is driving me up the wall! I am now putting the battery on a long trickle charge so I make sure the battery is at full charge. Can any electrical expert on this Forum comment on whether the problem has to do with different voltage/amperage requirements for the yellow LEDs versus the filament headlight bulb?
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Sad to say I didn't get to the shop today, but I'll try and get it done tomorrow.. Life got in the way.. sigh..
Attachment 53783Yahoo! There are two blue wires marked PWR in the TPI wiring set. I had the two reversed as to the "Battery" terminal. This was discovered using a test light. Now FINALLY I have hi/lo beam headlights and very nice yellow parking lights! Thanks for putting up with my angst. At Present I have the power to the Parking Lights connected to the Acc/Park terminal and the Tailight and Instrument light wires are attached to the Running Light/Park terminal. The mixup was fixed by putting the hi/lo foot switch to the headlight terminal and the "headlight PWR" wire to the +12V Battery terminal. Now it works! Brian is the Tech at Speedway who suggested the test light check.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
That is good news Don. It is always a good feeling when it all comes together, isn't it!?!?!?!
This Friday I stopped in to a local "Bring-what-you-got" car show at a local Chic-Fil-A just north of Richmond and saw a beautiful '34 Ford coupe with a perfect chop. A slight slide of the hand under a rear fender revealed a fiberglass body to explain what was an amazingly perfect chopped roof. Of interest was the way in which the owner satisfied the Virginia requirement of a front license plate by mounting it to a bumper bolt in what is probably not a legal way since half the plate was hidden by the bumper in front of it. Anyway I have the same problem on my '29 roadster. The correct place for a front license on a Model A is to hang it from the front headlight bar but that really blocks off a large area of the radiator so I did not want to do that. Often restorers who actually drive their Model A to meets swing up the front plate like a knife edge to allow more air to reach the radiator. Anyway this thread is supposed to be about mid-thirties Fords and I have been an interloper made welcome by IC2 who is not here to support me. Thus here is a little bit of '33-'36 Ford equipment adapted to the right front bumper of a 'glass '29 replica. The whole thing ended up costing me about $50 because I tipped a machinist to shear the aluminum plate and I had to pay $15 for a one-time exact fit use of a 9/16" metal bit. The actual bracket is Speedway Part No. 911-30103-SS stainless steel '33-'36 front license plate bracket. Add in postage from Lincoln Neb. and the cost of several stainless bolts and it all adds up but I needed a way to fit a front license plate for Va. Inspection. It does look a bit clunky and the bracket has a built-in angle which is not noticeable unless you take a close look. Well here it is 1/4" Al plate and all. I painted the Al plate with aluminum paint, maybe I should have used black or body color?
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Don we too have to run a front plate in Illinois . Yours looks really good and well placed behind the bar tie . I haven't made it to this yet and am sure it won't be as well planned as this . I will have to remember this one so I can get something close when it comes time .
No worries..I didn't get to work on the car all weekend :(. It's looking like this weekend is wide open at the moment though so I'm making a list so I can get some things crossed off!Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
I did some more research. Advance Auto has two part numbers for this type GM headlight switch - S415 and S415P. I'm not sure yet which one I have, but I'll probably cross my fingers and buy the other one.
Looks like we both had "life influencing" our decisions this past weekend!:LOL: I'll get it done tho'!Quote:
Originally Posted by 35fordcoupe
