Also the do have the Chrysler logo stamped on the inside , they are older mopar wheels for sure .
Also the do have the Chrysler logo stamped on the inside , they are older mopar wheels for sure .
I thought they looked like Mopar wheels....Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Yep good thing Mopar has the 4 1/2 bolt pattern
Bobby - I going to splash a drop or two of water on those MoPar wheels. Don't forget that they wont fit without possible wobble unless you use some rings to make them again "Hub Centric" on your Ford hubs. Here's what I mean -
http://www.prestigewheel.com/Catalog/HubRings66_67.pdf
There are several manufacturers but the above is a write up mostly of what the rings will do.
And much of that CA NA DA steel, which is much of what I get too, comes from Korea (Posco Steel) into Canada as raw stock to be processed into bars and plate (GE put a couple gas turbines in that plant in Korea :D)
I am ready knee is hurting i will do 2 Vicodin and a clanopam to yours .Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
s
:LOL::LOL: OKAY Bobby, I guess we'll file this under "you know your old when"! **):D:LOL: Or how about, I'll trade you 2 blue ones for 3 of those yellow ones there? **):whacked::DQuote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Sometimes I think John Lennon said it best , "Whatever gets you through the night"! :)
I'm actually feeling pretty good! Compared to last week or the week before!! :eek: With the relatively warm weather today (50's) I'm gonna take the car out for a ride and finally try out the new shocks!
Mike Glad to here the mobility is coming back with less pain .
I understand totally and glad some one else picked up on it . I was thinking till you posted this that if they are to large I could just have a space made up at work .
Same thing we use on the Chevy crank when it is grooved .
Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Bobby, and all the regulars here, just wanted to share with you that I was given clearance to return to work after the 18th! While I am still just a touch sore I am so much better than back in december! Now I can get back to the details that I wanted to do over the winter! :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Good on you Mike....
Sounds great Mike, that healing up takes a bit more time then it used to, huh???
Clearance to work is great!! Clearance to play is even BETTER!!!:D:D:LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Happy for you, Mike!!!!
Thanks Guys! It's amazing what they can do with 2, 3/4" slits in your back!Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
And yes Dave, I do seem to heal a bit slower than 20 years ago! :LOL::LOL:
Mike yep glad to hear that the ok is given to resume some fun things .
And the thing called work too Bobby! I'm actually looking forward to getting back to it! It's been a couple boring months!Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Been wiring in my new battery and remote battery system shut off plus significant cleanup of a messy area that has perturbed me for a couple years. Everything works!!!! Horn blows, lights light, sparks jump down the side of the coil, engine cranks.
This is how it looked before last spring's clean up of extraneous wires (can't find a later picture)
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...ild/Trunk1.jpg
The space saved this year with the mods - the tape and matted carpet show how BIG an area the Optima covered:
Attachment 53183
Attachment 53182
The box will be enlarged up a little for the stereo plus will be covered with some of the same padding and upholstery as the rest of the car - that's still a work in progress
Lookin' good, Dave! That's a lot of space you saved there. I'm gonna assume you have a remote for that stereo.....otherwise..:eek: channel surfing or changing discs while driving will be challenging....:whacked::LOL:
Yep - almost have a real trunk againQuote:
Originally Posted by randyr
Remote? Heck, I thought that my wife could ride back there and do any station/CD changes:3dSMILE:
Not a good idea - I guess, but this I do have and it does work pretty well:
Attachment 53186
I finished the battery box and stereo installation with a little foam padding and some vinyl upholstery. Unfortunately no one nearby had the color but I did find something close enough that it isn't a glaring fault. If I can find some of the original color, I'll just put a layer over what I have. Everything works:D. The new battery and the remotely operated battery kill switch is, in my opinion, a good add-on as it ended up taking that big Optima battery and mount, the Longacre master disconnect, two short lengths of 1 ga battery wire as well as the extra Ford solenoid out of the trunk - and means I can now actually put something in there besides a small bag of tools and a 6 pack cooler. The project took a little longer then anticipated with having to build the box plus a separate cover just for the stereo. If I was to build the car again, that battery would have been mounted on the frame, but at this point, a lot more time and work plus a few added bucks.
That wire on top of the stereo is the remote switching, the other is to the Battery Minder charger.
Attachment 53267
This is the 'mess I started with
Attachment 53268
Some good ideas there Dave! And it looks good too!
That looks good, Dave!!! I wish I was working on stuff like that. Instead I have a nasty deck lid & tail pan to contend with!:eek: One thing leads to a thousand more! I do hope to drive it again sometime in this lifetime!:whacked::LOL::LOL:
Thanks Mike and Randy.
And, Randy, that tail pan - that one I thing which I would bite the bullet and spring for the EMS. Save your pennies while working on the trunk lid and the multitude of other things that need to be done, then go back and 'do' the pan. Too much stretched metal that's been bent, gouged, ground and beaten on too often for my abilities - but heck, I could spend your money all day ( and think I already have in the past).
http://www.freesmileys.org/emoticons...con-tv-011.gif
Yes, Dave, you do have a knack for helping me spend my money!:eek::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
I got a "best price" quote for the tail pan & tool compartment combo for $600 including shipping. That's a big chunk of change! I also emailed the guy building the 37 on this site Stellar Antique Auto Restorations 1937 Ford Restoration because he replaced the tail pan in that car. He said that they had to split & reweld the tail pan to make it fit because it was just a little too wide. Geez! For $600+ dollars you still gotta do a lot of fabricating!:(
Then I look at the metal work being done by Dave Seversen, 123Pugsy, that new guy MP&C, Charlie and a bunch of others who work miracles with sheetmetal, and think maybe I should try smoothing this one out before I plunk out $600 for a repop. Heck, maybe I could even cut this one out, rework it and weld it back in since it doesn't appear to be rusted. There is lead work on each side of the pan, which may be from the factory, I'm not sure.
Anyway, I'm getting my threads mixed up by talking about the tail pan stuff here instead of the other one but oh well. :whacked: My threads tend to go all over the place anyway.:LOL::LOL:
Hardly any panels go right in but with some cutting and finis you get them looking better then new . I would rather work a replacement then try and save a medium condition one .
I have 2 ahead of it but I might catch up wit you ,
Attachment 53358Attachment 53357Don Shillady/RumpleStiltskin here. I know I don't belong on this thread but you guys have accepted my drivel before. We have had a mild winter here in central Virginia with only two small snow storms and so far I have avoided the bad cold I had this time last year. Amazingly yesterday and today I have seen some flowering trees! We had two warm days this week and I bought a precautionary fire extinguisher for my wood/frame garage and charged up my battery so I can start checking out my electrical system. The digital speedometer is not hooked up yet, the dimmer switch is not connected and the windshield wiper runs but will not shut off. With that list I am telling myself that at least I did not have a fire! Anyway I know my effort on the wiring is pathetic so far but I am reporting some good news here in that at least my turn signals work! In fact I am very pleased with the LED tailights and the front turn signals are actually brighter than shown in the picture because the camera flash negated some of the yellow light at the bottom of the three-in-one bulbs. The rear teacup-LED lights are really bright and I am happy about that small positive step. I am showing this very limited progress just to keep in touch with IC2/Dave. If the flowers keep popping up with an early Spring maybe I can sort out these circuits and get the engine running before Summer? OK so humor me while I try to psych myself into getting the wiring done this Spring.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/Teen Rodder
Hey Don, good to see you posting again. A little perseverance and you'll figure out your wiring problems and if you need help you know that all you have to do is ask.
HI DON! It's good to see you posting again! Never drivel,and any forward progress is good progress! The lights do look good and I like the LED rear lights in mine also. A lot brighter than an 1157 lamp for certain. I'm sure IC2/Dave will be along to harrass you soon. :LOL::eek::LOL:
Don -consider yourself harassed. I think that you just saved us a search and rescue mission to VA
Besides that - congratulations on some progress.http://planetsmilies.net/happy-smiley-638.gif
Ok one last update on my wiring mod/battery disconnect. Since I plagiarized both Painless and Cole-Hersee, I'll give them some credit - well, a wee bit anyhow. This is the wiring diagram for what I did. It works, so I am happy. Had it been a bigger car with more room, I probably would have gotten fancier, but my intent was to create some more useable trunk space plus clean up some wire mess - and it for sure did that:
Attachment 53376
Dave, what's connection 3 feeding? Switched?
The way these latching solenoids are set up for battery disconnect is that you use #3 to do a momentary ground to complete the circuit from #2. Terminals 2 and 3 are a direct and always on feed from the battery. What you are doing is just completing the circuit. The through feed is then closed. Hit the switch again, and it will open. This is NOT your everyday $10 buck Ford starter solenoid which is a momentary solenoid. I had a little problem getting my feeble mind around it so wired up a 'bread board' to satisfy my curiosity. That toggle - can be on either side - I just chose to wire that way ----- just because I did :LOL::whacked:Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Some reading for you - the final exam is at 0630 someday: Special Solenoid Applications | Cole Hersee - Littelfuse
it goes to ground to work the solinoid
Another bit of trivia from the garage of Don Shillady. Today is the first day of Spring and it was 76 F in my garage so I had to do something but I am just counting on the group here to keep me going. The title of today's lesson is "You Can't Be Wrong All the Time" Last summer I carved out my '29 roadster oak front bow so that my windshield wiper would park in a hidden position going on a vague assumption from a conversation with a guy at the Brookville plant that the Speedway "chrome wiper motor" Speedway Part 911-23502 would "probably park to the left". You can see in the picture that if it parked to the right I probably would have to start over with a new bow. Well I went ahead and varnished it and even put the mounting bolts in with epoxy so it will be hard to replace the bow. Over the winter I kept wondering if I had guessed right. Then when I checked the wiper with the battery in I could not get it to turn off. I know this is trivial stuff for you guys but any little progress is helpful here. Anyway the problem was in a three way switch that really only needs to be on/off and when I messed with it today IT WORKS! It also parks easily to the LEFT so my deep carve out hides the wiper when not in use. For what it is worth to others, the Speedway 911-23052 definitely parks to the LEFT. Now I have weakened the front bow but with a chopped top the wiper would obscure some vision if it were not parked in the carved out groove in the bow. Whew, you can't be wrong all the time!
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/Teen Rodder
Here is a picture showing that the wiper blade and the wiper shaft are almost totally hidden when it is parked to the left in the carved out part of the oak bow.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Shillady
Clever idea, Don!! Congrats!!! I could use a few of those "can't be wrong all the time" moments!!!:)
Don - not too different then what I did though with the '30-'31 I didn't have to carve quite as much header away. I originally had a black Speedway when my $$ Mighty Wiper went up in smoke and while it worked just fine, really wanted the much smaller Mighty there. I ended up doing a full disassembly and repair to fix a stop and a broken wire. This is how I mounted mine, using a Speedway manual mount adapted to the electric wiper.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...d/DSCN1514.jpg
Doing the rewire:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...d/DSCN1510.jpg
I'll have to find the header photos or take new, but it really is about the same and there is a post somewhere here that "tells" more
I did another transmission oil pan change - back to the nice cast aluminum version I had on it. The tin one that I put on to attempt to stop an earlier oil leak - within the month started leaking, and lots. Every bolt hole was distorted by up to 1/8" - and the bolts never had more then 12 lb ft of torque (spec is 12-16). The cork gasket was allowing ATF by and it was easy to see where. As I said in another thread, I was waiting on new bolts - flanged, as well as some sealing washers as the original bolts supplied were common grade 2, found anywhere. I HOPE this is the last time, but history with this transmission says not a chance.
Attachment 53435
Attachment 53436
The aluminum cover will run cooler better idea
IC2, Just for discussion, was the steel pan snagged as a result of an obstacle like a speed bump? That might be why the bolt holes were enlarged. If so, the cast pan might crack insead of bending/denting? I only ask you that because I regret installing a 5" dropped front axle and am considering a major move to replace it with a 4" drop once I get the car running. I have one of those DeRalle steel pans with the spiral cooling tubes in it for some cooling but it is mighty low. At present the axle is the lowest part of the undercarriage but I would have to be going very slow to brake after hearing the axle scrape to save the trans pan. Fortunately most streets are very smooth but my driveway and mall parking lots are the most dangerous with humps/bumps. Your steel pan looks clean so what distorted the bolt holes?
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Hi Don. No, there was no speed bump snag. As far as I can tell, the steel the pan was manufactured from is at least one gauge size or more lighter then the original Ford piece. I then used a fairly thick cork gasket which allowed the area around the holes to deform. While the replacement aluminum pan is about an inch deeper, I really don't expect a problem there either as I do have a couple of parts that hang pretty low. This is that steel pan -
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...C_0009-3-1.jpg
The aluminum -
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...d/DSCN1851.jpg
The running boards and brackets as well as the 'H' pipe are lower just to name a couple items.
That newspaper under that pan is still drip free:D HOOOOORAY!!!
