Thread: For Don Shilady

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Originally Posted by Don Shillady

When I have a long message I submit the first 20 lines and then use the edit command to continue.

Best Wishes,
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist, Teen Rodder

Another option when typing a long message is to first type it into a word processing program, such as Microsoft Word or Apple notes. Then copy and past it to the forum when you are ready.

That's what works for me on many forums / sites.

Originally Posted by 34_40

That's what works for me on many forums / sites.

What he said.

For Those Who May Be Interested,
The cause of demise of the wiper motor was tracked down to my mistake in connecting BOTH the radio system AND the wiper motor to the same 15 amp circuit! There are several higher amp paths in the circuit and I wanted to keep the wiper motor on the 15 amp circuit and use one of the non-used 40 amp circuits for the radio/amplifier system but no space could be found on the block connecor except a 30 amp circuit for the radio/amplifier circuit so for now playing the radio will be a $58 gamble on replacing another wiper motor, but the radio is on a separate circuit. The original intention was to allow playing the radio on the "accessory" key position when the motor is not running but that is still a foolish capability since it will run down the battery anyway! I got that idea from a "hotrod circuit" diagram without thinking through the current load. I am still not sure 30 amps is enough for the radio/amplifier system but at least the wiper motor is alone on its own 15 amp circuit. Live and learn! Since the wiper is necessary for Virginia inspection I had help from Bruce Orlandi at Performance Transmissions in Ashland Va. Now the car is inspected for the coming warm weather.
Unfortunately plans for a cam change have to be put off because Bruce also had to replace the front disk brakes and the oil seal on the transmission of my daily driver 1998 Pontiac convertible requiring a depletion of my "fun funds" for the immediate future. However I would still like to hear from the "Techinspector" regarding choice of a Howard cam.

Still Learning,
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/Teen Rodder

Read the tech data on the radio and amp. List it exactly and I'll calculate the circuit. But there is something still amiss. If it was a matter of insufficient power in circuit then the fuse should have blown.

Originally Posted by Don Shillady

However I would still like to hear from the "Techinspector" regarding choice of a Howard cam.

Don, I will be pleased to help, but I don't remember your combination. Can you help me a little?

Cubic inches
Static compression ratio
Primary use, street, street and drag or what
Transmission type
How many gears if stick, 3, 4, 5, 6
How many gears if auto 2, 3, 4, 5, 6
Converter stall rpm if auto
Rear differential gear ratio
Flat tappet, aftermarket roller or OEM roller
.

Well the weather is finally summer and the roadster seems to be running fine after I discovered I could clean out the carb the easy way with a few squirts of ether. Evidently, the combination of sitting over the winter months and a few gallons of stored stale gas really messed up the carb for a while. When nearly running out of gas I used a few gallons of gas that was stored in the lawn mower shed over the winter and the engine really did not like that stuff! Fortunately a can of Seafoam and setting the idle up to 950 solved the problem and it has been running so good that I can postpone a cam change or aluminum heads a little while longer. However, the Vega steering box is really annoying. I had a second brand new Vega box installed along with a new drag link and if you tighten the worm gear to eliminate the slack, parking the car is a real chore. If you let more slack in the steering you have to constantly correct the path when driving. My big 2011 Impala and my little 1998 Sunfire both steer steady as a rock easily due to the rack and pinion setup. I don't see much on this Forum for Model A rack and pinion setups even though the Speedway unit has been available since about 2015. I found one picture of a deuce frame with the Speedway unit on the HAMBE site but is there anyone here with pictures and/or experience with the Speedway unit? I am considering spending what funds I have this year on the Speedway rack and pinion unit but there are some negative comments here and there about this unit among some raves about easier steering and more precise control. In my opinion the Vega box may be OK for a Vega with a light engine but with a 550 pound SBC it is terrible in my experience. Comments please!

Best Wishes,
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Don, a company named Unisteer makes a rack and pinion steering system for early Fords, take a look......
https://www.unisteer.com/1928-1940-s...ss-steers.html
.

Thanks Tech1,
Those prices are about $100 more than the same units on the Speedway page at present, BUT Speedway is only accepting back orders at this time so maybe the prices have gone up due to demand for a good product? I was hoping for a testimonial from a Club Hot Rod member?

Best Wishes,
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Still here after a long pause. Since last message a rack and pinion from Speedway was installed on the Brookville-29 frame. It was supposed to be a 2 hour installation, HAH! A week is more like it since an added steering rod standoff had to be welded into the side of the frame with the usual delays waiting for small parts but it steers much easier and precise now. Then in August on a 100 degree F. day I went to a local Friday meet and the electric water pump failed. I learned that the lifetime of electric water pumps is measured in MINUTES (3000 minutes) not thousands of miles (only about 3000 miles over four years) and so the pump had to come off. On my Model A front end the radiator and hood had to be removed along with headlight wiring and oil cooler lines which gave access to the same removals for a cam change so I bit the economic bullet and purchased an Edelbrock performer plus cam (lift 0.420/0.442 and 204/214 degrees at 0.050") which is only at the "stage 1" level above my previous Blue Racer street cam along with a Stage one water pump and replaced the Edelbrock RPM intake with an Edelbrock EPS intake, preferring low rpm torque rather than high rpm H.P. The prices for the cam and EPS intake were enticingly low through Walmart on-line ordering. It was good to check on other things while making the changes and two of the"Sportsman roller tip rockers" were found to have bent roller pins so all the rockers were replaced by Comp aluminum roller tip rockers. The main reason for this message is that removing the electric pump required a short water pump bracket for the alternator. However, I now need to add a second belt to make sure I am driving the water pump sooooo can anyone suggest a belt tension idler for the second belt? There are two grooves for a 3/8" V-belt on the pump and the crank but I need to add a tension pulley for the second belt. The present alternator is on the upper passenger-side head to fit under the narrow hood. I ignored the modern serpentine belts and pulleys in favor of a V-belt for ease of replacement if I lose a belt out somewhere out of cell phone range so I need a 3/8" V-belt tension pulley that can use some of the remaining accessory holes in the 882 heads. I previously traded a set of camel hump heads for exhaust porting of the 882 heads just to get the extra accessory bolt holes and I hope that will pay off now. Short water pump setups with V-belts are less common than the elaborate March serpentine setups but I want a V-belt setup with two belts. Any suggestions with a part number? I won't know about new performance of cooling until I can run the motor to break in the cam but I am hoping so get a reliable setup that will last for quite a few thousand miles.

Retired Scientist/Teen age rodder
Don Shillady

Hello Don.Good to see you again. Sorry to read that the chevy is hungry for more parts.

I already feel sure I know the answer but, why do you think you need two belts? It cannot be because you will be spinning that motor that fast! Many Many cars ran a zillion miles on 1 belt for decades and never had an issue.

Even my own coupe runs a single 3/8ths belt, with a 100 amp alternator and never an issue. Do as you wish, it's your car of course.. but I think you're making work for nothing. My two cents. Hope you had a good Turkey Day?!?!?

The cam Don has chosen has a Hydraulic Intensity number of 74. It is a very "easy on the valvetrain" grind that eases the valves open and eases them shut, unlike one of those Fosdick Extreme Energy grinds that I despise so much for yanking the valves open and closed. This easy grind should last a long time and provide good performance down low where it is needed for a street driver.
.

Thanks for useful comments Techinspector and 34-40. I am installing a 100 amp one-wire alternator using a short water pump bracket from speedway said to be the best seller for narrow frame early Fords. I am concerned whether only about 20 degrees contact of the belt with the water pump pulley will move the 100 amp alternator and the pump. I added a smaller diameter alternator pulley because I want both of my electric fans to come on more of the time, maybe all the time. One fan at idle is not enough. 34-40 says there will not really be a problem but I am still waiting for the nut and lock washer for the alternator pulley due to the holiday. Actually Denny suggested the "Stage 1" performance level but Techinspector's comments carry a lot of weight with me as well as the Walmart prices! Hopefully the Stewart Stage One water pump and both electric fans will prevent overheating?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder