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Thread: Low-budget/T-Bucket Pickup
          
   
   

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  1. #106
    Driver50x's Avatar
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    Progress on the Hot Rod has been slow lately. My job has really been interfering with my free time.

    I was able to get some work done on the rear suspension. I decided to go with a 4 bar rear suspension. I think performance wise that is the best way to go - I'm trying to get the best ride out of this car that I reasonably can. I am going to use tie rod ends for these bars, along with 5/8" steel threaded suspension tubes from Allstar. I made up the brackets out of 1 1/2" angle iron and 3/8" steel plate. After I drilled the holes for the tie rod mounts, I welded a 1/2' nut to the back of each hole for added thickness. I then used a tapered reamer in the drill press to cut the taper for the tie rod ends. The tie rod ends have 5/8" thread. They fit a 1965 Chevy Van. The AutoZone/TRW ones are only 10 bucks apiece.

    I'm sure most everyone reading this probably has a drill press, but if you don't, I really suggest getting one if you can. I just picked one up a couple weeks ago at Home Depot for $130. That makes it SO much easier (and safer) to drill the holes in all these brackets. Up until now I had been doing all this stuff with hand drills.



    1 (320x240).jpg2 (320x240).jpg3 (320x240).jpg4 (320x240).jpg5 (640x480).jpg
    Last edited by Driver50x; 11-16-2017 at 04:18 PM.
    Steve

  2. #107
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    Here are some pictures of the four bars mocked up and ready for welding.

    I got everything tack welded in place. Next I'll pull the rear end back out and finish welding the brackets on.



    6 (640x480).jpg7 (640x480).jpg8 (640x480).jpg9 (640x480).jpg10 (480x640).jpg
    53 Chevy5 likes this.
    Steve

  3. #108
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    Good job on the brackets.
    And yes, a drill press can be your best friend, LOL....
    Driver50x likes this.

  4. #109
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    Nice work. The tie rods are a cheap alternative. I never really thought about using them for link ends.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
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  5. #110
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    I'll bet the tie rod ends won't squeak either. I have a drill press like yours, it does just about most of what I like it to It seems like you get a lot done with the time you spend on it.
    Last edited by 53 Chevy5; 11-16-2017 at 07:17 PM.
    Seth

    God cannot give us a happiness and peace apart from Himself, because it is not there. There is no such thing. C.S.Lewis

  6. #111
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    Yep, I think the tie rods add to the old school look, and I love that they are greasable and sealed. My cousin works at the TRW tie rod factory in Portland, Michigan. He might have made these.
    40FordDeluxe likes this.
    Steve

  7. #112
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    Don't cheap out on a quality vice for your drill press. Even a cheap drill press will benefit from a good vice. It always frustrates me when I see a machine shop using a cheap / damaged vice on a drill press, sacrificing safety and precision/ease of work.
    NTFDAY, 40FordDeluxe and Driver50x like this.
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    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
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  8. #113
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    What type or price range of vice do you recommend?
    Steve

  9. #114
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    I hope none of my family realives or friends are ever on the same road as you
    sharpmark likes this.

  10. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
    I hope none of my family realives or friends are ever on the same road as you
    Jerry, care to elaborate on which component that is freaking you out there?
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
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  11. #116
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    his choice of materials-Black iron pipe???? Tie rod ends on 4 bar links??? Single shear mounting of links???

  12. #117
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    Jerry, keep in mind that this is a light weight, low powered (stock 350) T-Bucket. It's also going to have skinny rear tires (about 8 inches wide). These are relatively large tie rod ends. I've seen guys use 1/2 " rod ends in single shear on the rear suspension of buckets with much more engine and tire than I am running. All of the suspension components will be assembled with grade 8 bolts.
    Last edited by Driver50x; 11-18-2017 at 05:25 AM.
    Steve

  13. #118
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    Steve--------I think you have been doing some fabulos work/design-----------your choice of materials and some methods are just not what I'd do--------but I do believe that your use of those tie rods for 4 link bars are over the line-they were developed for steering purpose/loads and not vehicle pushing /stopping rear end bars-they have a definite point of fracture at the end of the threads in the tubes and the lengthy ones you used put this point in a more fragal area

    What airline do you fly for?????? I haven't seen Bob D since last century-----

  14. #119
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    The design application shouldn't be the concern. The calculated force load is important.

    The tie rod ends are designed to handle force load of varying angles, which will not be present in this application. That is to say the force will always be in perpendicular plane to the center pin.

    If one were to research the engineered load ability of the tie rod ends, I would expect that it would equal or exceed the heim joints which are more common to the application.
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    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
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  15. #120
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    Well, youíve got me thinking. I guess thatís a good thing.
    Iíll see if I can come up with some engineering data on those tie rods.

    I fly for PSA Airlines. They are owned by American Airlines. Unfortunately my pay check looks nothing like an American Airlines paycheck.
    Steve

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