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Thread: Low-budget/T-Bucket Pickup
          
   
   

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  1. #46
    firebird77clone's Avatar
    firebird77clone is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 69 nomad, 73 charger, 74 vega
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    I'm guessing that you "rough-set" the caster and can fine tune it later, using the radius rod's rod ends.
    Whiplash23T likes this.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  2. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by firebird77clone View Post
    I'm guessing that you "rough-set" the caster and can fine tune it later, using the radius rod's rod ends.
    Yep, that is correct.
    Steve

  3. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by 34_40 View Post
    Just a point to bring up for clarification.
    1/2" - 13 thread is coarse, 1/2" - 20 thread would be fine.

    for someone reading this and not familiar.

    Yes, good catch. I actually bought the wrong ( course thread ) nuts the first time around. Luckily I realized my mistake before I did any welding, and I ordered the fine thread nuts.
    Last edited by Driver50x; 06-21-2017 at 08:23 PM.
    Steve

  4. #49
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    Looks like your doing nice work and have the patience to do so.
    Seth

    God cannot give us a happiness and peace apart from Himself, because it is not there. There is no such thing. C.S.Lewis

  5. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5 View Post
    Looks like your doing nice work and have the patience to do so.
    Thanks Seth. I'm having a good time with it. I just wish I had more free time to tinker with this stuff.
    Steve

  6. #51
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    "There never seems to be enough time to do the things you want to do,once you find them"

    Jim Croce
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  7. #52
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    The Chevy Van that my front axle come off, had the tie rod assembly behind the axle. It needs to be in front of the axle on the T-Bucket. I unbolted the steering arms from the spindles, and swapped them from side to side. The only problem with doing this is that the part of the steering arm that connects to the drag link would now be on the the passenger side instead of on the drivers side where it belongs .
    So I cut off that part of the steering arm, and will have to fab a new one for the drivers side spindle. I am going to use the stock Chevy tie rod assembly. I replaced one tie rod end that was rusted up, I will reuse the other one.






    Steering arm1 (640x480).jpgSteering Arm2 (640x480).jpgSteering Arm3 (640x480).jpgSteering Arm4 (640x480).jpg
    Steve

  8. #53
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    Sorry Steve, but I think you will have to rethink the whole steering set up as you will have that all wrong if you continue on this path at the moment. I would suggest making your own arms to have the tie rod behind the axle some how whether above the frame or below.
    I maybe a little crazy but it stops me going insane.

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    Mark.

  9. #54
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    I know very little about steering but I've always been told it's best to have the tie rod behind the axle as well, just what I've heard.
    Seth

    God cannot give us a happiness and peace apart from Himself, because it is not there. There is no such thing. C.S.Lewis

  10. #55
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    Take some time to read and understand the principles of Akerman's Steering Geometry - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackerm...ering_geometry
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  11. #56
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    Good advice above. By merely moving the arms to the front (by switching side for side) you have created "reverse Ackerman". That means every corner you drive around will be scuffing the front tires. A lot of builders, especially first-timers, do this and get away with it, but it isn't a good or desirable situation. It can make handling kind of unpredictable under some conditions, especially wet pavement or intersections that may have dirt or sand on the asphalt.

    On my roadster I used an Econoline axle similar to your Chevy van axle. I kept the arms on the back side by heating and bending them down to get necessary clearance. On one of my previous C-cab builds and on the Deuce I am building now I fabricated my own steering arms so that I could get the necessary clearance and still keep proper Ackerman angles. I know it's another big step and a pain in the arse, but worth it in the end.

    Having said all that, you can go ahead and get the rest of the chassis fabrication done and come back to the steering arms later, preferably before you drive it.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  12. #57
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    Thanks for the heads up on this guys. I know what Ackerman is from my stock car racing days, but for some reason I didn't even think about it on this project. I'll have to rethink the steering arm situation.
    Last edited by Driver50x; 06-29-2017 at 05:58 AM.
    Steve

  13. #58
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    I'm thinking about possibly leaving the tie rod on on the front, but bending the steering arms out as far as possible. I'm not sure yet. I've been away from home the past ten days, I haven't had a chance to actually look at it and think about it.
    Steve

  14. #59
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    I'm working on finding the exact location for the radiator, engine, and body. There is a lot of stuff to fit in a small space!

    Question, how much clearance do you guys think I need to allow between the transmission and the firewall?


    mock up (640x480).jpg
    Steve

  15. #60
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    I only left about 3/4 of an inch. Just enough to loosen the bolts at the bellhousing for me. Once they are loose I can lower the crossmember and sneak the bolts out to remove the trans.

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