03-23-2017 05:45 AM #16
As a former bucket owner, I'm subscribing to this one. Good luck on the build.
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My plan is to move the rear axle back far enough to put the tire in the center of the box. Right now I am out of the state for four days for my job. I'll get back at when I get home.
You might want to move the tire back and forth several inches, an inch at a time and take photos of each position. That's always the way I have done when I wanted to get everything lookin' good to the eye.
|PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.|
Listen to Richard, forcing a fitment to an idea rather than to what is pleasing to the eye is an all too common error. The other suggestion is to move the hardware out into the driveway or where ever you have space to step back about 20 feet from all angles to gauge proportion. After years of playing with this stuff it's not hard to spot a car that was built in a garage and all the decisions were made from a 3 foot distance..................they're always just off somehow.
Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon
It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.
Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.
That sounds like sound advice. I'll do that before I cut any tubing.
Last edited by Driver50x; 03-25-2017 at 04:46 PM.
Here is a list of the parts and pieces I have collected so far:
1979 Chevy Malibu with a running 350 CI engine, Turbo 200 transmission, and 10 bolt rear end. $600
23 T Body with separate door $550
Door latch and striker $30
Door/ piano hinge, nuts and bolts from Home Depot $17
28 feet of 2 x 3 x 3/16 rectangular tubing for the frame, plus a bunch of 1/4" and 3/8" plate and 1" and 1 1/2 angle iron for fabricating various brackets. $365
Complete front I-beam axle assembly with drum brakes from a 1965 Chevy van. $100
1931 Model A grill shell. $70
1965 Chevy Corvair steering box. $82
Investment so far - $1714
Last edited by Driver50x; 03-25-2017 at 04:47 PM.
I got some work done today. I spent some more time mocking up and looking at the body, frame, and the box. I decided to go with a 40" box and to center the rear axle with the box.
I got the side frame rails cut out and welded up. I am following Chester Greenhalgh's plans for the most part. I had to lengthen the frame due to my body being 3 inches longer than stock, and apparently about 1 1/2 inches narrower than most, and I am extending the wheel base by 9 inches.
The first picture shows the rear frame kick up. I do not have a flat floor or surface plate to work off, so I clamped the pieces to another piece of tubing to hold them straight while I welded them. Once I got one side welded up, I used it as a jig to assemble the other side
Looks like a nice start, I have to improvise a lot of welding table stuff too
God cannot give us a happiness and peace apart from Himself, because it is not there. There is no such thing. C.S.Lewis
After reading dozens of comments over the years about FLAT-------an old flywheel is a very good item around that welding area----plus the recessed center is handy to have for things with projections ( anything not flat, weld bead, bolt boss, bracket)---------and also, a heavy truck or tractor flywheel makes a nice base for a vice or grinder stand---
Also the already threaded bolt holes for a pressure plate make vatiety of places to clamp down small parts with assortment of bolts and metal strips----
Last edited by jerry clayton; 04-02-2017 at 09:45 AM.
Before you get any further along, I would like to suggest that you buy and read this book cover to cover.....you will not believe how many little time and money saving tips are in here that you can apply to your project......I always suggest used books like this one from greener_books-london or BooKnackRH, that will cost you less than 6 bucks delivered to your front door.
I'm not too far from you, up in Zephyrhills, so if you would like the input from an old guy who has been there, done that, ring me up on the phone and I'll run down there one day and spend a little time with you. If interested, let me know and I'll give you my phone number on Private Message here at Clubhotrod....
One of my first suggestions would be to find an old door that you can re-skin and make into a drafting board. Applying pencil to paper at quarter scale or half scale will allow you to make changes on paper, where they are not quite as expensive as they are to make in steel.
Last edited by techinspector1; 04-02-2017 at 11:22 AM.
|PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.|
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Prairie City
- Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
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Nice work! When I made the rear frame rails for my Vette, I did it just like you did. It worked really well.
1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
I got the cross members cut out, and the frame assembled and welded up.
I used 2x3 rectangular tubing for the front cross member, as recommended by Chester Greenhalgh. I think it makes the car look a little "different" than every other T Bucket on the road.
frame4 (640x480).jpgframe5 (640x480).jpgframe6 (640x480).jpg