Thread: 383 Stroker Build

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Originally Posted by NTFDAY

I've never seen one that wasn't tapped an threaded and it should be on every GenI small block starting in 55. Be hard to change fuel pump without that top hole tapped and threaded.

This is something we've still been thinking about and talked about today. If we'd caught it sooner, we'd had the machinest drill and tap a hole there for us. We'd rather test and tune this motor on our front motor mount engine test stand as opposed to dropping it in the car when the time comes and going from there. My Dad says he's never had much luck on tapping holes and I'm no subject matter expert on that area. We do have a tap kit and thought about doing a few test runs on a piece of iron. Any advice out there to give us or anything we need to know if and when we do tap for a left, front motor mount?

Originally Posted by Rdobbs1977

We do have a tap kit and thought about doing a few test runs on a piece of iron. Any advice out there to give us or anything we need to know if and when we do tap for a left, front motor mount?

For certain, do the practice holes. If you drill the hole crooked, then your tapped hole will be crooked. Use a small square to give your eyes a line to compare against, have someone help watch to keep the bit straight, for cast iron I like to use any EP2 grease as a cleaner / lubricant on the tap. Push some into the bore your tapping and smear some onto the tap. It'll push aside the chips and help carry them out, wipe and replace it often.

Use the corect drill bit ( it should be part of your kit ) and take your time. Cast is usually easy to thread but very dirty! Another reason to use the grease, it helps contain the dirt / dust from machining , when drilling, use a vacuum to remove the dust, cover any parts of the motor that may be open.

Again, take your time and have fun with it.. after you do a couple holes, you'll be confident to do the real one.