Thread: 383 Stroker Build

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I wouldn't drill it any deeper than the one on the other side and can you get the block under a drill press?

Originally Posted by Rdobbs1977

We do have a tap kit and thought about doing a few test runs on a piece of iron. Any advice out there to give us or anything we need to know if and when we do tap for a left, front motor mount?

For certain, do the practice holes. If you drill the hole crooked, then your tapped hole will be crooked. Use a small square to give your eyes a line to compare against, have someone help watch to keep the bit straight, for cast iron I like to use any EP2 grease as a cleaner / lubricant on the tap. Push some into the bore your tapping and smear some onto the tap. It'll push aside the chips and help carry them out, wipe and replace it often.

Use the corect drill bit ( it should be part of your kit ) and take your time. Cast is usually easy to thread but very dirty! Another reason to use the grease, it helps contain the dirt / dust from machining , when drilling, use a vacuum to remove the dust, cover any parts of the motor that may be open.

Again, take your time and have fun with it.. after you do a couple holes, you'll be confident to do the real one.

Take a quarter turn, then back up, take a quarter turn, then back up. Backing up clears the tap threads and prevents jamming it and breaking it off in the hole. I have found it helpful in the past to use a piece of stock that has been drilled in the drill press to the drill size that you will use to make your hole. In other words, if you have a flat surface that you're going to drill into, you can hold your guide stock up to the work you want to drill and drill right through the hole that's in your guide and on into the piece that you want to drill. Toward the end of this 16 minute tutorial, the operator gets into what I'm referring to....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWjaoW7VJxY

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When I need to drill /tap out anything that is a primary mount hole or for something else to bolt to a engine(other things also) I make a simple guide piece out of whatever I have that is fairly thick-In this case I would start off with drilling 3 holes in the piece that were TAP drill size------holes would be like A,B,C---A would be for the location of the present already tapped hole in the block and B and C for the other hole-then drill A out to the mount bolt size (close tolerance drill size) and either B or C will be used to guide the tap drill into the block SQUARELY( use a stop collar to limit depth of hole)--then use the remaining hole either as a guide hole using the tap threaded thru it also or as I would have it as guide for the tap at tap od --------- This will require moving the guide piece to the second hole or if you want a one time thingie you can do it with only two holes------
I also on pieces I need to use many times will buy and use drill bushings-----

I have stop collars, but I really don't much care for them. Maybe they're just cheap junk, but mine just don't work well.

What I prefer, is to wrap some electrical tape around the bit, to mark the intended depth.

For something super critical, a length of tubing can be slid over the bit, leaving exactly enough bit exposed to drill the required depth. The tubing will act as a positive drill stop, even if the drill is pulling itself into the material.

McMaster-Carr

Like this??????????

didn't show the pic, but if you go to there site and enter drill bit stop collars you'll get the pic.

Also-----when tapping blind hole into a head or block you will need three different taps to be 100% successable?
A starting tap, normal, plus a bottoming tap to get threads to bottom of hole-there is about 6 - 8 threads tapered on normal tap-----also there are 3 and 4 flute taps--

with the proper tap it is not only not necessary to back the tap up every quarter of turn but highly not recommended-it works, but also adds to the risk of messing up the threads and or breaking the tap--

thanks Denny-you bailed me out again-I couldn't get it to post right-

And those WORK SUPER !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Today we got the valve train assembled for the 383. We had plans to put the intake on which looks pretty mean and cool, but ran out of time so will hit that on Monday. It was our first time putting stud girdles on as well. I noticed that at certain points in the valve events, you notice some pretty tight clearance from the girdle in relation to the rocker but I guess that is how it is supposed to be. We were kind of laughing that its a good thing we don't have to go below .012 because we'd then have to move the girdle up which I guess would be ok if you had to. That would mean though the two rings that fit onto lock nut/screw at each end of the girdle would become useless if we had to go that route. Do you guys see tight clearances on girdles you've ran? We set the lash at cold to .012 (hot is at .018) by just using our own method of going to one cylinder at a time when each valve is closed.

Sure is pretty....

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Originally Posted by techinspector1

Sure is pretty....

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Hope she's going to be mean too on the track next year Richard!

Originally Posted by Rdobbs1977

Hope she's going to be mean too on the track next year Richard!

Are you just going to run brackets with it or is there a class where you want to compete?

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Very nice build, I see dollar signs and troubled sleep in those epics. I always lose sleep when I'm doing an engine, I will build one in my sleep in it's entirety before I actually do it; it's exhausting.

is it just the lighting or me? does the heads have different retainers on each head? Also valve tip length looks different plus set up is for lash caps???

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

is it just the lighting or me? does the heads have different retainers on each head? Also valve tip length looks different plus set up is for lash caps???

The retainers are set up to run lash caps, but that's a route I have chosen not to take. All retainers are the same. Don't know what you mean on the valve tip length, can you explain that one further Jerry.

Originally Posted by techinspector1

Are you just going to run brackets with it or is there a class where you want to compete?

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I don't know yet. I do know I need to pick up an NHRA rules book and pass inspection next year with the car which will be a first for me as I've never entered a car for drag racing and am curious as to what they will be looking for, short of a fire extinguisher.