It's very likely they both got taught their job by reading the same book..."How to be a Bureaucrat in Five Easy Lessons."Quote:
Originally Posted by NTFDAY
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It's very likely they both got taught their job by reading the same book..."How to be a Bureaucrat in Five Easy Lessons."Quote:
Originally Posted by NTFDAY
Man you really had some hoops to jump thru to get that HotRod on the road. When I finished the wife's truck.
Made up the vin had a metal tag stamped, pop riveted it to the door jam.. Called the Sheriff, comes by has a look. Hands me the paper work, off to the tag agency.
Am curious, is the body a Ford produced part? If not, would that have made any difference ?
No, it's fiberglass and in Kansas if you make any significant changes to original iron, like a later model power train, it's no longer considered an "Antique" and falls into the category of "Assembled Specialty Equipment Vehicle", along with anything with a reproduction frame, body, etc. About all you can get away with on a true antique vehicle any more is a different engine that's of about the same vintage, and upgraded brakes if you play the "safety" card. It's all about taxes. First is sales tax, and even though my Bills of Sale state clearly, "For the sum of $_____, inclusive of all sales tax..." she insisted that she was required to collect the sales tax on anything that didn't show a specific amount of tax paid to a vendor. When I offered that it was the seller's responsibility to pay the tax, she said "It doesn't work like that. I collect sales tax." Next is Personal Property Tax, and they want a receipt for anything and everything purchased to go on the car, to establish the "Purchase Price". There's then a diminishing scale for Personal Property Tax on vehicles, paid each year as part of the license fees. I think the PPT on my 2005 Jeep was $30, and on my 2017 F150 was $375. It may be different in some of the more rural counties, but we have the option of going to the DMV where we live, or to the DMV office in the capital, not to any county we want, and that's AFTER getting your new VIN inspection.Quote:
Originally Posted by pepi
After 2 hours waiting in the parking lot, two hours watching her try to figure out how to input the data and adding numbers repeatedly I was $1,905 lighter and left with a temporary tag, hoping that the state accepts the package she assembled.....
There's a bill on the governor's desk to allow any type of modifications to vehicles over 35 years old while retaining the "Antique" classification for cheaper tags and no Property Tax. It won't help me, as it only applies to OEM vehicles, not reproductions.
Ouch! Hoping when I reop my vehicle I don't go thru this
Yeah, I've had guys tell me that I'm crazy, and that they didn't do "....any of that crap" when they registered THEIR car, but that was 40+ years ago. A guy here bought a glass '32 coupe from a hot rod shop in Indiana, and they had titled it as a "1932 Ford Coupe". When he took it to the Highway Patrol Vehicle Inspection Station they looked at it, looked at the VIN (they have a book that shows the location, type size, font and special dies like stars or diamonds that the factory used year by year) and told him that they would not issue a title for the car "because it is NOT a 1932 Ford", and that if they ever saw the car on the road in Kansas they would call a tow truck and impound it on the spot for vehicle fraud, and he wouldn't get it back! He was fortunate that he had trailered the car to be inspected, and that the Indiana shop he purchased from took the car back and refunded his money, saying they'd just sell it in state.
The rules are different state to state, and SEMA SAN has a great summary of the rules that they keep current. I cringe every time I read a post on FB where some guy says he's got an old car, and is looking for an old title so he can use that VIN. That's a good way to lose a car, and perhaps have a felony conviction on your record, at least in this part of Kansas!
Yikes !!!!!!!! KS may spout great BBQ, car friendly they are not. Abusers of the owners that find and enjoy the simple pleasures of the machine.
Hope the have nightmares
The tie rod ends on the steering rack won't take grease with a manual grease gun pumped up several times, so I took one off to examine. The zerks are clear, and probing into the threaded grease zerk hole they're not bottoming out. With the rod end on the spindle, loose from the rack I can work the joint around, but when I put max pressure on the grease gun it's like it freezes in place. Take the pressure away and it moves around freely, but they're tight. These ends were sold in early 2009 so likely made 15 years ago, if not more, but they put some grease inside so I can't see corrosion being an issue.
Since I can work them around freely (with some effort) I decided the best path forward was to fill the rubber cap with grease, reinstall them and run them for a while, thinking that with some use they will "loosen up" enough that they'll accept grease. When I Google "tie rod end won't take grease" it seems that it's not so unusual? I've never had a new tie rod end that wouldn't take grease, but I can't see that my approach has any fatal flaws. Thoughts/experiences?
I cannot honestly say I've ever encountered this. The unit is somehow sealed? You cannot add to the space if something doesn't get displaced is the theory I'm using. Do you have one of those needles that plug onto the grease gun?
I think I'd do the same as you're thinking, run it and try again in 6 months or so...
The way it looks to me is that they insert the threaded tapered shaft into the machined "socket", set a "cover" in place that's got the zerk fitting hole in the center and swage the body closed to hold the cover. I'm thinking these got swaged really tight, so that there's just no room for the grease to flow through to the top. That's the only thing that makes sense to me, but it's damned tight tolerance! Hoping they wear in a bit with a few road miles, or I'll be contacting TCI or Pete & Jakes for a pair of new ones! Warranty is probably still good from '09, right?Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
I guess as long as it isn't 1909... they oughta be glad to cover that one! We are in agreement, no room for grease.
Pop out the zerk and force in some thin oil??? Or as you did already, under the rubber boot..
Yeah, I took the zerk out and filled one with penetrating oil and then worked it around. Still no joy on the grease so I opted to fill the rubber cover, put everything back together and clean off the grease that squeezed out. Note to self - Grease tie rod ends at the end of the summer!!Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
When I was a teenager (over half a century ago), I once watched the local gas station owner (old time place that had a grease pit; no lift) heat a stubborn tie rod end on a truck with a torch to get it to take grease. As I recall, he just got it hot, but not hot enough to glow. Then he plugged on the grease gun and it took grease, but the grease melted. He went on to do something else, came back after it cooled and greased it again. It took grease normally then.
It would be a lot of trouble to do that on your roadster. You would have to remove the rubber and possibly take the rod end off. Try your idea first and if it doesn't work you can try heat as a last resort next winter.
Jim, in my Google research I did see where someone talked of heating with a torch but it was in a thread where being filled with old, hardened grease was mentioned so I didn't really consider it. But now that you mention it they sat basically untouched for nearly 15 years so that might be it!
I had the roadster loaded last night for the trip to the shop first thing this morning. Showed him that they had put in a B&M Shift Kit, Corvette Servo, 500 Boost Valve, High Energy 2-4 Band & friction set, and non-stick throttle valve when it was built. Got a call at 2pm saying "Come get it! It's good to go!" Turns out that sitting idle for 7 years in a mainly unheated barn space had rusted the 2 to 3 and 3 to 4/OD valves so they were stuck in place and not allowing the shifts. The 2 to 3 he was able to move with some lube, and once moving it freed up and was OK but the 3 to 4 valve wouldn't budge. It rides in an aluminum sleeve with lots of machining, and by the time he got the valve out the sleeve was in several pieces. Of course the sleeve is considered integral to the valve body and isn't sold alone, but he had a buddy at another shop that had a spare 700R4 valve body and he got the sleeve from it. My valve body had been modified, so simply swapping valve bodies would have lost all of that, or required uninstalling/reinstalling the pieces/parts. Easier and cheaper to just swap out the trashed sleeve & valve. Lighter by only $350 and it shifts like a dream!! That's why I like small, independent shops and won't go in the big name places that automatically drop the tranny and bust it apart, then announce "It's gotta be rebuilt". He also explained how the lock-up feature works, blocked until the fluid is up to temp, and how he wires them on non-stock applications. Something else to look at....
Next is alignment!
Nice. Worth every penny when it's fixed. Good progress.
I hear you on that.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
I won't deal with any large franchise-holding garage for that very reason.
The bloke in the local garage will repair it, and explain exactly what he's done and why in words of one syllable so that even a dumbass like myself can understand.
JB,
Here's the roadster key, on a Kiwi fob that I'm sure came from you!
Attachment 73595
Dirty Harry said a man has got to know his limitations... good to hear you've found your limit! :LOL::LOL::rolleyes::rolleyes::p:p:p:p:LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by johnboy
Pokin' the bear boss! LOL
...complete with an instrument for removing crown tops off BEER bottles!?!?Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Who me??
Shame, shock, horror!
(You're most probably correct in your assumption.
It's all about getting your priorities right.
And removing beer bottle tops is a priority.)
Phoo!Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Read my byline.
'I don't know everything about anything, and I don't know anything about lots of things.'
I've had the response ready for you well before you passed the comment.
:cool: :cool: :cool: :cool:
(That's not pokin' the bear. That's giving the bear a good kick up the derriere.)
:D :D
In my misspent youth a car bumper was the implement of choice if a "church key' was not available.
Some mistakes are too much fun to be made only once. And I'll probably make this mistake again... I think I woke up the bear! :3dSMILE::LOL::eek::eek::whacked: Poke, PokeQuote:
Originally Posted by johnboy
That's a lot better choice than your teeth! Don't ask! LOL :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by NTFDAY
Nice fix on the transmission! I am fortunate to have a BIL that rebuilds transmissions in our town. He rebuilt the transmission for Rita, and three years later the lockup converter went south on me but it only had 10,000 miles on it. They pulled the transmission tore apart and checked the guts, and put a new converter in and I never got a bill. I thought that was extremely good of him especially how I put the tranny in myself the first time so technically the labor to remove and install should have been my deal.
A bit more in the tranny saga. After talking to my new tranny guy he thought that a lockup circuit was a good idea to prevent overheating and improve efficiency. The 700R4's come in several versions, with changes as computer controls were enhanced, but the big difference is if it has external pressure ports on the passenger side or not. Mine did not (later version) so I ordered that kit from Monster Transmissions. In the video the guy advised to drop the 2nd gear accumulator down for more room to swap out the pressure switch on the 4th gear circuit, and to put it back in the same order which is common sense, but then stressed that the spring first, piston on top. I put mine back as found, but it haunted me because there was no piston on top so I made a quick trip to talk to the tranny guy. On the way I wondered if maybe the difference was the mods that had been done when mine was built. Sure enough, Chris said that every shift kit has their own way with the springs & piston, and if I put it back the way it came out it would be all good! Thought I was going to be dropping the pan again, and glad that I'd at least put in a drain plug yesterday so maybe I wouldn't be laying in tranny fluid again...
It would have been nice if Monster's video said, "Put the accumulator back with everything in the same order. If it's stock the piston goes in last, on top of the spring but if you have any kind of shift kit the order may be different."
That has always been a complaint with after market written directions hasn't it?
Either to lazy to contemplate needed alterations to their plans or they simply do not care to consider a customer may have some different configuration of a common component.
And then if you happened to call in to their tech help, they'll say "oh, that is covered in some other "tech update" page 47 rev b..... but that isn't found online!
Been struggling with the top, trying to get it to sit right, and managed to put a healthy gouge in the paint when it popped out of a tab and fell:( Ended up moving the tabs twice, and called Don (Da34Guy) to walk through the process. He shared that the ShowMe body was for sure narrower than stock, and got me on the right track. Anyway, it's on and I think is OK!
Now I get to patch a big slot on each side and spot in some paint!
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UGH ! It looks good Roger, but hurts to think about the paint!
I agree, that's a good looking top. Good scale for the body, not to tall or to low...
A bonus is that getting the top sitting right pushed the windshield up several degrees. Now my visual "sweet spot" isn't through the top of the windshield frame.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
That is just BAD A$$ looking!
Gorgeous!
Just bloody gorgeous!
The roadster came out gorgeous Roger, more great work!!!!
Thanks Dave! It's bittersweet because my coupe is a stick, and when I brought this one home I told Susan that it would be an automatic so she would be more comfortable driving it.... Then she didn't get to stick around to see it finished.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
I would not think that would be that big of a deal. Knowing the spray gun Roger most likely will be using.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pepi
Much less waste with the detail gun!
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I have one of these too! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
On small scratches I use an airbrush, even less waste.
Tired of driving blind behind I added an interior mirror. Had to aggressively grind the mounting button to compensate for the windshield angle, but got it to work! I did learn that the double side 3M dot that they supplied doesn't work :mad: and that gap filling super glue doesn't hold either:rolleyes: but the special mirror adhesive does great, at least so far!
The peeps mirrors, even with convex stick on's left a huge blind spot right behind. Gonna feel safer now!
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That should help a bunch, Roger, looks good on the windshield, too! Decent mirrors on a small coupe have always been a challenge, I think you nailed it!
I had one of those mirrors on my '29 roadster as well as two outside mirrors. It was an important addition for rear views.
