Awesome! That blue is PERFECT!
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Awesome! That blue is PERFECT!
Looks like progress to me. Good job.
Nice! I'll bet it looks twice as good in the sun.
Paint came out great, and I love the color!
Thanks for the kind words! Turned out having an extra day was good, because as I was pulling off the masking film I saw the steering u-joint and realized I had not painted the steering column! Got it prepped and primed, and made a run to town during the 2 hour dry time, and shooting color with another hour dry, then a couple of coats of clear, all done by 4pm and the cold front rolls in tonight!
Later afternoon - As I was carrying the column toward the paint area I was looking at it, wondering how I was going to hang it securely while not restricting spraying. I thought of Robert (MP&C), using vice grips for his Go-To solution for everything, and thought "Why not vice grips?"
Got it done by 4, south winds are holding the temp at 72 with clouds building. The winds will shift in a few hours, bringing the cold down from South Dakota. Dave Severson, how about checking that gate that's the only thing to block the wind?
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Attachment 73115
Looks great Roger, you can never go wrong with Blue. With 4 coats of clear you'll have plenty of clear to scuff and buff to a mirror shine!
That looks awesome Roger! I'm glad you were able to get to painted. I didn't get any paint sprayed and will probably have to wait a while now.
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I'm not sure if I was even there? :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
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:eek::eek::eek: Does Momma read this page? :LOL::3dSMILE:;);)
One step forward, two steps back but the gauges are in with the new bezel, and it works for me! Now to get it put back together, wired, fired & stitched.
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The work on the roadster has been kind of hit & miss lately with more misses than hits with the frigid temperatures. Been working on the wiring and it's close with the headlights being the biggest part left. Of course when I started messing with the headlights I realized that they had not come out of the box when I was finishing the painting, so they're still black primer..... Arrrrgh! Plus to get the SoCal mounts bolted on the frame requires the radiator and grille to be removed to have room for a small breaker bar to swing.... Arrrrgh x 2!
With the grille shell off I decided that I ought to mount the grille before putting it back on, and Jim Robinson gave me a great tip of using strips of cotton t-shirt material to protect the paint instead of tape! What a deal! It pays to ask the guy who's done it many times before. "The T-shirt material is as thin as tape, but it's a lot stronger and easier to remove. Anything left behind can be trimmed with a razor blade." Thanks, Jim!!
I'd made myself a note, "Wire Neutral Safety Switch" and went out today when it warmed a bit and removed my tranny hump panel. After a long look I Googled "Neutral Safety Switch GM 700R4" and found that the NSS is not on the tranny, but is found on the linkage! My TKO600 manual on the '33 has an integral NSS but not an auto? And the LOKAR Shifter doesn't include the NSS? Back inside I find that LOKAR has a nifty High Zoot switch that functions either as a reverse backup light switch (one arm on the rotating actuator) or as a NSS (two arms on the rotating actuator, park & neutral). Now wouldn't it be nice for them to mention this when you buy their shifter? Wait! Wouldn't it be nice for them to INCLUDE the NSS with their HIGH ZOOT SHIFTER?? Nooooooo! Let's wait until he's wiring the car and figures out it's not there!
Amazon is bringing a nifty High Zoot LOKAR NSS on Monday! Might actually try to start this brand new 2007 ZZ4 some day!
Finding stuff you missed/forgot.....................................sounds like progress to me.
The Amazon guy showed up a day early, which was a nice surprise. The Lokar NSS kit is well made and functions as it should. Another item done!
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The '57 Chevy upper radiator hose worked great with a couple of inches trimmed from the top end. The lower not so good. The '57 Chevy lower has a double 90 bend to clear belts, but mine was too close together. Of course I tried modifying it, so no return.... but I figured a plain 90 degree formed elbow would work, and it did! Another item checked off. Gotta pick up a 1/2npt plug for the bottom tank on the radiator and it's ready for coolant.
Thanks Roger. Does the switch "work" for park and neutral?
Yes. Using the part with 2 bent tabs is a NSS, closed in Park and Neutral. Using the single tab its for backup lights. Both are shown in the first picture, parts on the table. The installed pic shows the switch pushed to close in Park, then it rotates CCW to open in Reverse, then rotates to close in Neutral and open for all Drive positions.
Thanks for the info, good stuff.
I was actually crawling around the 40 the other day and I need to source a water neck and hose for it. I also need to dig out the shifter and figure out which one I will use. I need to get my floor finished so I can move forward. It's getting warm out and I am getting the itch......
Yeah, warmer weather helps for sure! I got the grille shell mounted on the radiator, did some measuring and tightened everything down hoping that it's right for the hood if I ever get it painted.... Then I looked through the grille and read "Speedway Motors on the protective cardboard I taped to the radiator to not beat up the fins, now nicely protected by grille.:rolleyes::HMMM::o:(:(:( So off comes the grille shell once again, 30 minutes to remove the 5 year old yellow painters tape and residue, then back on again. If I didn't do each task two or three times I might make some progress!
If you were able to accomplish a complete build without repeating a task a time or two.. You'd be Superman! :LOL:
My favorite saying was, we "Put it together.... to take it apart..... to put it together... to take it apart... to put it together..." **):D:p
It's not repeating, it's precision fitting....
Didn't get a lot done today, but did get some double side tape to mount the rubber cowl/hood and grille/hood half round seals. Also mounted the windshield, with its "barn find" dirt in place, and drilled/tapped/welded a ground buss behind the dash. Picked up a 1/2npt plug for the bottom radiator tank. I'd never thought of putting my temp sending unit there, but that's what PRC says it's for! Anyway, I think it's ready for coolant now.
Baby steps....
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JMHO, I believe they mean it is for the electric fan temperature switch.
Or a Reverse Flow system.?.?
I expect 36sedan's right, as he generally is! My SPAL controller on the coupe has it's own sensor, and I chose to mount it in an intake port closest to the head, the hottest spot I thought, and then program accordingly. On an older manifold there might be only one port for coolant, so having one in the radiator would be perfect!
I don't disagree. I'd have me a gauge hooked up to it for sure... just because! In my coupe I have the AOD tranny test psi port connected to a psi gauge in the cab. I used it to tune the throttle valve to carb linkage. I found it to be helpful so I left it in place. It drives my friend Mark crazy as it is always running up and down depending where your foot is on the gas pedal. LOL He just can't understand how it operates even tho' I've explained it over and over. I'd be curious to see the temp coming off the motor and after the radiator. again.. just because.
Ready for coolant, The list is getting smaller!
Yeah, as I headed to the barn I thought maybe I'd dump in as much coolant as I could get it to take without starting the engine, and maybe fill & bleed the brakes. Got out there, looking at wires and wondered why there wasn't anything on the fuse block point labeled "Gauges"? Sorted through, looking at their overall wiring diagram and saw that it was a pink wire "12V Ignition Power" and found it triple lugged on the Ignition Switch. Yeah, it would work but the gauges wouldn't be fused.... Fixed that, then started putting covers on wiring on/around the engine to look prettier. Wired the horn - easy but needed a hole through the floor and gotta find a piece of green insulated wire to match - lacquer thinner takes off the wire ID info that American AutoWire uses, so score! Ran the electric choke power wire in and used a spare fused point for it, too.
The tranny linkage had made me wonder a bit when I put on the NSS, so I unhooked it and sure enough the lever on the trans had 3 more detents forward (1-2-3, then D, then OD). Found that the little heim joint rod end was catching on the tranny. Easy fix, taking off the actuating lever on the shifter, whanging it a couple of times then using the vice to flatten a bend, but it all takes time. Back together I've got all positions now, and the NSS is right too! Decided it would be best to have a radiator cap before dumping coolant instead of yellow painters tape. O'Reilly's has one - tomorrow....
Your quick a minute projects sound just like mine, lol
Yeah, the minutes become hours!
Another of those kind of days today. Changed out the hard line connections for tranny coolant to 3/8" barbed tube and got them plumbed. Learned that it's best to measure close for the rated rubber hose at nearly $4 a foot! At least I could use a piece of the left over for my crankcase breather to carb hose!
Plug wires - why don't they make wires with the HEI end straight instead of 90! With #1 and #2 adjacent and needing to cross, and #3 and #6 adjacent and needing to cross, and with an air cleaner and firewall that leave almost zero room it's a PITB! If the wires came straight up it would be so, so much easier! Just like the old female cap connectors, wires straight up!