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Jim,Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Robinson
As you look at yours I expect you'll find the internal hole in the top and bottom billet pieces will be drilled for the dipstick wire as opposed to adding fluid. Mine were obviously a solid chunk of aluminum, so drilling them out wasn't a problem, but I did mine in stages as opposed to just hogging them out in one pass. Either would likely be OK.
The bigger win for me was discovering that the fill adapter had the hose on the wrong end.
I'll get a good look at it tomorrow.:HMMM: Mine didn't come with the fill adapter, so I'll have to make one.:rolleyes: One of the vendors had a bunch of them in a box for $20 ea. and my transmission didn't come with a dipstick, so...
Yes, the pvc valve draws out one valve cover and the other valve cover allows filtered air into the motor.
Yeah, I'm not sure where my head was when I asked that question. I know the PCV on one side, breather on the other drill well, and did that on the coupe. I guess I'll just claim a Senior Moment of Stupidity. This morning I found sitting on my shelf of unloved parts a breather and PCV that once rode the valve cover of the 347 SBF, and they'll work fine. As I recall, the valve covers on the coupe have minimal (likely none) baffling, and I was getting oil dripping from the breather, so I opted for different parts on both covers. These Chevy covers have a high tech baffle, so these old parts should be good!Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
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Yep, we all have the senior moments.. Nothing stupid about it! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Agree, if that was stupid, we'd all be in the same boat! I call em brain farts, seem to be have more lately than I used to? I don't know why. LOL..Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Spent about 2 hrs getting more or less caught up on this thread. Great project. Gotta love a 32 roadster!
Yes sir. A deuce is one of my favorite Hot Rods in the world.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotrod46
I'm getting a caught up on this thread, I had to laugh when I seen you describe your Chinese transmission dipstick and the cost of the Loksr ones. I found out the exact same thing, and chopped up a factory tube and dipstick and measured it up so that it would be the correct length.
Da34Guy (Don) suggested that it's a ton easier to paint the body off the frame, mainly for cut & buff, but I decided to set the body on the frame, hopefully for the last time. My dolly for the body sits nearly a foot higher than the frame, so I think it will be easier for me to paint on the frame. I intended to get it done yesterday but got tangled in some things, and then getting things ready took longer than expected. The PO purchased a Bob Drake Shock Liner system, but also bought a roll of the traditional webbing material from Vintiques. I decided to use the Bob Drake system since I have it, and it has a TON of shims.
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This "kit" has ten each of shims in 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8! Fifty shims! A guy could do a body lift, like I did on the JEEP to increase flex room! Right now I'm thinking I may use two of the 1/8" shims, but I may have to stage them back from the door, and if so I may use a pair each of 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4. I just need to close the gap at the top of the doors about 1/16 or so.
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The body went back on easy. I put in three long bolts with the heads cut off and shank rounded as locator pins, and with that it was a one man show with no problems.
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I haven't measured the top & bottom cowl to grille yet, but I think the bottom of the radiator needs to push out a bit... It looks like its leaning forward too much.
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Got the tranny kickdown cable adjusted and secured, and the throttle cable installed too. Alternator is ready for a wire, and a power wire to the HEI and some coolant and belt and it could make some noise!
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it's looking amazing. good job!
You're killing it Roger!, I can't believe how fast you're getting that thing together and it's looking amazing!
It's looking good mate.
It's hard to tell from a photograph; but it looks to me too that the radiator is leaning a bit too far forward.
Terrific progress.
Protect the frame and lay the hood on there. It will tell you instantly where adjustments need to be made.:HMMM: Is there a spacer behind the fan? On my '31 coupe I had to modify the alternator bracket to move the alternator back about 3/4 inch (the back of it is almost touching the valve cover) and then use a shorter fan spacer so I could lean the radiator back to fit the hood.:cool:
Looking great!
Yeah, I thought about putting the hood on but then I thought, "I already know it fits, minus the 1/8" thick mounting tape between body and frame, and I put a piece of that under the radiator tabs too... Why not get the hood and body painted, and do it once?"Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Robinson
Yesterday I ended the day with the E-brake handle installed again (had to remove it because it hit the body dolly :( ), with a bunch of up & down under the car. With a helper it's easy, "Hold that drivers side bolt on the floor with the allen wrench!", but working alone it's finding a way to wedge a chunk of 2x4 against a bolt head to stop the allen wrench. On the plus side, it just adds to the satisfaction when the bolt is tight! This morning was finishing the E-brake, which turned out great, then getting door gaps right which was a bunch more up & down on one side. Ended the day by getting the brake pedal back in, without having to loosen the exhaust which was a huge plus, so it's ready for fluid and bleed when the time comes.
My old bones are talking to me about all of the up & downs working under the car, but that's what keeps the old man out! Tomorrow is a new day, and I'm going to take stock of anything else that needs to be done, then start prepping the body for color.
Don't let the old man in!
OOPS... famous last words.. now comes the jinx! LOL.. 8-)Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Says the guy who was involved with the first fitment of the hood ( http://www.clubhotrod.com/hot-rod-bu...tml#post530872 ), when I found that the radiator mounts were 1.25" too high!! :eek:**)Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
That's too funny! LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by rspears
You've got a good memory! I had forgotten about that. Maybe someday I'll get back over there and bother you some more!?!?!?! :LOL::LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
If I was a bit closer I could give you all kinds of good advice, but probably just end up muddying the waters.:D:LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL:
I needed to get my dash drilled so it's ready for paint. Started with the bezel centered and secured, then outlined each gauge position with a fine line.
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Broke out the compass and struck arcs from the outline to pinpoint the centers, then I drilled a small pilot hole dead center to guide the hole saw drill. Worked slick, but it's always kind of stressful drilling into that nice, finished surface.
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Gauges mounted, bezel needing some polish!
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With the gauge box open I noticed the speedometer sending unit and decided I might as well put it on and string the cable, only to find that I put the exhaust pipe too close :o:(:rolleyes: That's the sender connection, and while the sender fits the cable won't fit onto the sender without notching the pipe, or doing a rework. I came in and found that VDO has a nifty little GPS Sender that replaces the direct mount, and a note to VDO confirmed that it works with the speedo I have, but to the tune of $164 plus tax, plus shipping!
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Looking for options I found this nifty little 90 degree adapter used on '53 to '82 Corvettes for speedometer and also for direct drive tachometers! Priced at $39, shipping took it to $49 so I'm all in at 1/4 to 1/3 the cost of the GPS adapter. If the angle adapter doesn't last the GPS is always an option.
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Got my bulkhead wall in place and finished the little shelf for the battery. A hold down strap is next, then get the positive cable through the floor and in the clamps up to the starter, negative tied to a body bolt into the frame.
LOVE the dash! Looks awesome!
Dash looks good. The pucker factor is usually pretty high when modifying high dollar or finished parts!
Good find on the right angle speedo drive. I'll have to file that one away in case I need it one day.
Just saw this thread and noticed you have a 2" stretch body. Saw one of these at DesMoines Goodguys and really liked it. My roadster is cramped and I'm only 5'10". Would definitely use one of these if I built another roadster. Should be much more comfortable and you really don't notice the difference unless someone points it out.
Yep, at over 6'1" I'd be really cramped without the 2" stretch! It's surprising how much smaller the '32 is compared to '33/34, too.Quote:
Originally Posted by figure8
Heading toward paint, the bottom back corner of my passenger door was standing proud by 1/4" but good at the top. The doors adjust fore & aft, but the hinges are bolted solid so there wasn't an adjustment option. The door just has a twist. My first thought was "It's a roadster! Just paint it!" but I knew I'd not be happy with it so I decided to cut a little wedge out of the jamb and see if the outer would pull in to close the gap.
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I was happy with the way the gap closed, so I ground down the joint a strong inch wide to about 1/2 the thickness, and added three layers of fabric.
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Mounted after drying over night, the bottom corner was pulled in about 3/16", still proud by a bit, but the arch of the door skin didn't match the body, and the door was still standing proud in the middle. Again, my thought was, "It's a roadster...." but after looking at the other side I scuffed the surface and put on a skim coat of filler and worked it down.
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Also did the drivers side, higher on the body. They're not 100% gap free, but "IT"S A ROADSTER!"
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Last was cleaning up the passenger side door jamb, removing some of the ugly....
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Just a heads up for anyone who uses the 90 degree adapter for the speedometer drive, as it comes out of the box it's a reversing drive - spinning the input shaft clockwise gives a counter-clockwise rotation on the output side. I was fortunate to see a post on the internet, calling it out and commenting it was an easy fix. And before someone comments, yes, the input shaft & it's brass adapter seal has been removed so it didn't fall out on the floor while the part was in the vice....
To correct it, it's a simple process of taking off the brass grease zerk adapter, then on the other side loosen the brass outlet fitting and remove it, along with the spiral gear that's attached to the output shaft. Swap them, putting the output gear and fitting where the zerk adapter was, and installing the zerk adapter where the output shaft was. Badda Bing, Badda Boom, no more reversed direction rotation.
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It's a slick little part, and since the design was used for 30 years on Corvettes I think it should be just fine for my service.
Thanks for the update.
I finally got to the point I was ready to take a step or two forward, and got the car staged in the paint booth area, dropped the back wheels & tires off for access and masked off things that needed to be protected. I'd decided to pull the doors and trunk lid, spray the jambs and edges, then once dry remount the doors & trunk, and spray the outside all together. I added the hood retainers to the mix too. Got everything primed yesterday, let things dry overnight plus, and then today shot some color. Hoping the door jambs don't end up being the best paint on the whole car....
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There must be something mystical about jambs................the paint always seems to flow so nicely on them.
Here it is 5 days before Halloween and this stuff?
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We've had cooler weather for a couple of weeks, with one warm day tossed in as a teaser and now this! It's hovered around 29F all day, flurries off & on with less than 2" now, but calling for more during the night. Hoping that it's just the lead in to some Indian Summer, but not looking too promising at this point. Jim Robinson pointed out to me that it's not roadster weather around here now anyway, so there's not much point in pushing. I'll see what the coming weeks bring. It's blocked and ready for prime, color and clear; then wire, fire & stitches.
Same thing up here, supposed to warm up and melt the yucky white stuff in the next few days! I sure hope so, way too early in the year for this stuff! We had about 3" of snow, some areas north and west of here got in the 10" range!
We didn't get the snow, rain only, but it's been colder than a dead witches left teat.
Oklahoma got hit with a bad ice storm that looks to be widespread - OKC was having lots of problems, lots of power outages and lots of transformers blowing due to ice grounding lines. Here we've warmed into the mid-40's today, melting everything. Next week is supposed to cheat up towards 60F. Hoping for some sunny days!
Maybe get some paint applied?Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Looking good Roger! This week might be the last good week to spray any paint. :LOL:
Yep, waiting for the temp to come up a bit and planning to shoot primer, let it dry and shoot color Friday. I had some minor surface rust on the hood from sitting too long in the unheated barn and used OSPHO on it. I guess I shouldn't have let it sit wet because it formed some really hard deposits that are going to take a lot of work to get off, so the hood is going to wait until later, likely spring.Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
The Indian Summer temps held for me, topping at 77F today! It's supposed to hold through tomorrow, which was my cushion day in the schedule, then Tuesday gets colder and wetter.
I shot primer on Friday, and was surprised to find a bunch of little pissy flaws that needed to be fixed, so Saturday was more fill, sand, and then spot prime the repairs. Today one of my boys brought his family out for some distanced visiting, letting his two boys run around, play in the leaves, climb up in the treehouse and just be boys! I got out to the barn to work about 2pm, and at 6pm shot the 4th coat of clear. It's not perfect by any means, but it's got color!
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Looks beautiful! Nice color too.
