Thread: Oh no not another Willys Gasser build, this time a Willys shop truck

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Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

Did you make it back home from your trip safe Steve?

Yes Ryan just getting back into the swing of things, we had a great time with Don Snr, Don Jnr, Dan & Nancy. It was terrific to see them all again, you would be hard pushed to meet nicer people, they are all like family to us

I've been teaching Don how to speak Cockney

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Just a small update, sorry it's late but I find myself looking on here less and less these days.
Not much I'm afraid as I'm at the arduous & tedious body work stage.
I wasn't entirely happy with the bolts at the front of the intake so changed them for studs & castle nuts, I machined in a pilot on the studs as it makes the nuts easy to start and has a nice finished look to them.










While I was there I fitted a direct temp gauge into the water runner, it's tight on clearance but fits snugly.











I also bought a Fenton fuel block back from the states which matches the Fenton intake nicely, fitted it with brass fittings to match the rest of the hardware on the truck, it sits on the firewall behind the blower which made the Marshall pressure gauge hard to see so a quick rummage through my spare fittings box and I found a 45 degree elbow, now it just pokes out from behind the blower and can be seen easily.











I didn't want to use modern jubilee clips on this build and really liked the look of Wittek thumb screw tower clamps as they look old and dead cool but they were really difficult to find but luckily somebody I know in the US put me onto someone that collects them (yes a very interesting old chap) and while on holiday I paid him a visit, unbelievable !!! He had tens of thousands of them !!! No cars just Wittek clamps !!!
After a bit of persuasion he said he would sell me some as long as I was putting them on an old car, I showed him a pic of my truck and everything was cool , I didn't mention it was fibreglass.
They are all stainless and hopefully I've got all the sizes I need.




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Looking good as usual, Steve, and glad that you were able to source some parts while here on your holiday. That's a different use for safety wire. Is your thought that it's serving a double purpose, first keeping the studs from loosening, plus acting as the pin in the castle head nuts or do you just like the look? Normal security for a castle head nut is a cotter pin. Just wondering....

Originally Posted by rspears

Looking good as usual, Steve, and glad that you were able to source some parts while here on your holiday. That's a different use for safety wire. Is your thought that it's serving a double purpose, first keeping the studs from loosening, plus acting as the pin in the castle head nuts or do you just like the look? Normal security for a castle head nut is a cotter pin. Just wondering....

It won't stop the studs from loosening Roger just the nuts, I just like the look really, the studs are loctited in with blue loctite, they won't ever come out !!!
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Originally Posted by roadster32

It won't stop the studs from loosening Roger just the nuts, I just like the look really, the studs are loctited in with blue loctite, they won't ever come out !!!
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Not a big deal Steve, but properly installed safety wire would keep the studs from loosening, but technically safety wire would not be allowed on a castle head nut in safety service (aircraft fasteners, military engines, even professional racing, etc) because the hole through the bolt and the slots of the nut create a shear plane on both sides that tends to cut the wire if it loosens. Not saying that it's wrong for your service, but it wouldn't pass QA/QC on a military application. A cotter pin would be used on a castle head, but I think it looks trick, too.

Had another thought while riding the tractor/mower for what I hope is our last mowing of the season... If you want to make it more "authentic" you might consider abandoning the hole through the stud and the castle headed nuts, and invest in a jig to drill across the corner of a polished hex nut for the safety wire. Here's the first that popped up on EvilBay - Safety Wire Pliers Guide Block Universal Nut Jig | eBay You could then wire the nuts such that the wire pulls to tighten, not more than three together, and with the twist on the wire between 6-10 twists per inch. With that, Bob's Your Uncle....... or Auntie

cool old time clamps!
Glad you guys hooked up with the Don's and Dan! They are a good bunch missed here for sure.

Amazing machine, and fab work! Great problem solving, please keep posting!
Rich

I like the milling on the studs and the castle nuts! But, how the heck did you get the safety wire wound that perfect!?

Originally Posted by 36 sedan

I like the milling on the studs and the castle nuts! But, how the heck did you get the safety wire wound that perfect!?

You need safety wire pliers mate
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I know about the pliers, but you're a better man than me at it!

Glad to hear you're back safely and had a great time! Your intake looks great. Nice work fitting the gauges in too.

Not much in the way of progress as still straightening out the cab, it's getting there though
need to have a break from it now and again so looked for something to make, I needed a coolant over flow bottle, yeah I know I could of bought one but I wanted something different So I found a bit of 80mm thick walled tube and cut it into 2 pieces, then onto the lathe to lose some weight and get it down to 1/16" wall, the first piece was turned on the outside and the 2nd piece was bored out till one slid nicely into the














Next some 2.5" holes were bored and some of the holes elongated.












A top was turned up and next I turned a bung for the top, this was welded on and blended & fettled to become one piece. Then a base was turned up and it was all ready for welding.










Here are its all welded together and the welds smoothed out.








I found found a neat little drain valve from a Hawker Hunter aircraft so welded in a bung in the base and threaded it to suit.










I welded a tab on and as the drain valve was drilled for wire locking I wire locked it to the tab.








The top was tapped for a 3/8" brass pipe fitting which has a bit of copper pipe going up to the rad cap, I added a mounting bracket and here's the finished tank ready to be vapour blasted.









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Awesome work Steve. By the way, how's the foot/ankle treating you now?

Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

Awesome work Steve. By the way, how's the foot/ankle treating you now?

Cheers Ryan, got to go back to hospital this coming Friday for more injections, deep joy

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Continually amazed at your creativity and approach, Mr Lang! Not sure how you thought of the two layered container, but it ROCKS! Thanks for taking time to post.