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Thread: 1931 Model A Tudor
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    bluestang67's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 67 Mstg cpe , 37 Ford Coupe
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    1931 Model A Tudor, Time Machine

     



    I am going to start this here from the beginning . There has been some changes down the road but hey thats the fun right . It will take me a bit to catch it all up in one place .

    This is the day about 3 years ago it came home with me .







    Last edited by bluestang67; 04-24-2011 at 07:02 AM.

  2. #2
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    The whole luck in getting this car was a relist , the guy didn't like the damage it had . From what I can figure out it was hit from something of the same era with the damage so high and a light impact . This car was stored around 50 years in a garage after this impact .

    The left front fender was hit and the left rear as with the drivers door pushing the body in about a inch in this location . I built a wooden frame so I could push it out to the correct dimensions so the door area was correct .



    I used a 2 ton bottle jack up and down the post till it was back out .



    The door had a lot of sheet metal damage so I picked up a used door . This is still rough compared to the finish but thats later .



    One of the previous owners banged it out stretching the metal pretty badly .



    Had this fixed by a sheet metal guy .


  3. #3
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    From here my next choice was chopping the top . I decided on a 3 inch chop and was right on for the Tudor . This made it look like Henry himself had this idea .

    The idea off the tape was from the great guys here . This is the all about best way to chop and have the metal line up really close with a lot less grinding to fit the top back on .

    Some reinforcements was suggested from the guys here again . This was only the start of what I put in . I used conduit very cheap and easy to cut . I smashed down the ends to make welding a lot easier .



    I then began to give it a little hair cut . First the tape , then some spray paint .





    Then I cut it off and ground down to the paint lines . This made it so easy .





    Also with the suggestions from the great guys here , they recommended using the cut pieces from the posts to line the top up and rosette weld them in to help support it .


  4. #4
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    So the welding began and I think we all know that part .

    Last edited by bluestang67; 04-06-2011 at 11:07 PM.

  5. #5
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    Next I started to look at front suspension choices . I finally decided on a Heidts Superide front . This was not a bad install at all took about 2 days . May have taken less but I kept cutting the tape measure shorter just kidding smile some .

    I welded in some cross bracing to keep the rails secure , and with a lot of help from the oldest son we got the front out and just test fit the Heidts subframe in .



    Well with a lot of measuring from the directions and marking and double checking we was center the sub was tacked in . We kept measuring and after a bit decided it was fine and I welded it in




  6. #6
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    This is my first build like this so any and all info I could gain here was utilized . The frame was the next step since I was placing a SBF in it . With advice I think the boxing and bracing will hold just fine for this engine .

    The engine mounts I did would have been strong , but I didn't feel comfortable with them sitting at the bottom of frame so I did the speedway mount .

    You can't see now but the 2x2 was inside the rail and below . I webbed in some 3/16 plate on the inside of rail to tie it all together . Then covered it .



    But as I said we cut all this out a put in a cross bar mount .




  7. #7
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    Great job, Bobby! I'm glad you did a thread on this; I'm looking forward to watching.

  8. #8
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    Falcon Thanks wanted to do one awhile back , but when you get here you start reading all the others . It's like a novel you can't put down and then the time is gone .

    After the frame paint I reinstalled suspension and the drive . Has to be rolling so I can get it out of the way .

    A short Vid

    http://rides.webshots.com/video/3031...02070080pJyzXa




    I have read some where the shock bung on the rear can actually bend after time with out a gusset . So what I did was drill threw and had some stock turned and reamed to fit my 5/8 bolt .

    I put the piece I made completely threw the frame and welded it in for strength . It's 1 1/4" stock reamed for bolt very nice fit and secure .









    So here it is for now .


  9. #9
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    Looking good, Bobby!! Now that you got that set up are you going reconfigure it for the Nailhead??
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  10. #10
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    Randy since the Nailhead could never really launch the frame is strong . Someone I know that has been involved with race car chassis said it is fine the way it sits . He said all I will be able to do power to weight is spin the wheels . HHMM Randy this means a great smoky burn out right .

  11. #11
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    I fiber wheeled the original paint off . The rock chips are seriously by the 1000's . The fiber wheel made real quick work of it .









    Continued till I had it all done but the hood .







    Up till I got it to this point .











    Remember in the beginning how I said the final gap after working the used drivers door and the lt 1/4 out together . Well this is the end product of that work .


  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluestang67 View Post
    He said all I will be able to do power to weight is spin the wheels . HHMM Randy this means a great smoky burn out right .
    Sounds just about right for a street rod! Looking great there Bobby!

  13. #13
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    My Bad.......... My memory is lacking, I just wen't back and looked, and it looks like you have allready given her the trim job.......

  14. #14
    bluestang67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dlotraf33 View Post
    My Bad.......... My memory is lacking, I just wen't back and looked, and it looks like you have allready given her the trim job.......
    Dlo Yeah it is trimmed second item that was on the list .

    Jack anytime it's a great tool and will take of the top rust . But a good blasting is needed for the deeper stuff .

  15. #15
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    Ok was going to hold out but the kid in me is itching to tell someone .

    Well I was given a 1969 302 that was pulled from neighbors 65 Mustang . He asked if I wanted it I said yeah thinking I was getting a spare 289 .
    It had sat in a salvage yard in Cali where he bought the car .
    When I got it home and tore it down I seen the bottom roller assembly had been balanced out and it came with a torker 4 brl intake .
    So it must have been raced the cylinders i honed to .003 over stock to clean up .





    Well it came together like this with some GT40P heads little torq cam .





    But thats not the good news this is , I picked this up about 3 weeks ago guy wanted it out of his way $500 he took it as part on a swap .
    This engine was already torn down so inspecting it was real easy . This owner never unwrapped anything to look .

    The crank was just turned .010 on the mains and rods all new bearings . New cam with it but I ordered a little hotter one more duration .
    I could see it was together for a short time then taken apart so maybe the cam was bad . The complete valve train is new or rebuilt for this engine .

    So I seen on the front .030 so he had it pulled and bored , located some .030 over pistons that are really dirty . This is where it sat till I got it .















    Mocked it all together , original paint Ladies and Gentleman the 1961 Buick 401 CI Nailhead can we get a oooohhhh



    He gave me the Dyna Flow and a 1965 Super Turbine 400 that will bolt right up .

    Last edited by bluestang67; 04-13-2011 at 06:03 PM.

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