Curious, Steve, what was the confusion with the directions, and what did the tech tell you that led you down the wrong pathway?
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Curious, Steve, what was the confusion with the directions, and what did the tech tell you that led you down the wrong pathway?
When fitting a blower on the Harmonic damper is done away with but then you have no timing mark, I had marked the alternator pulley but while everything was stripped out I decided to make up a pulley to take a timing tape.
The original balancer was 8" diameter but I didn't have any aluminium that size, nearest thing I could find was an old wheel spacer that was 6.5" diameter, this was deemed just large enough to suit a MSD 6.375" timing tape, first thing was to turn the diameter to 6.375" and then bore the centre out to 3.480 to sit over the blower hub nicely, holes were then drilled and tapped in the alternator pulley for it to bolt too, then the excess aluminium was turned off.
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Then the new pulley was bolted on with 5 x 1/4" UNC ARP stainless bolts
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Once the blower pulley is back on it sits about 5 thou off the small bolts which makes it impossible for them to come out.
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This is the sheet of Timing tapes, they are self adhesieve, once we reset TDC it will be stuck in place.
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So are you going to degree the cam to see how it lines up against the cam card from Comp?
Alternator??????????please explain that----------
:o:o Sorry, in #1 I read "...Comp chain & gears..." and jumped to the assumption that you had a package.:o:o My bad, but my question was more are you planning to put a degree wheel on it, indexed to true TDC and verify the valve action against the cam specs from Lunati, which you've confirmed. Some folks think "setting up the cam" means simply lining up the zero marks on the two gears and buttoning things up with a prayer that it's right.
in post 1641 you said you had marked the alternator pulley????????? whats that got to do with the crank/cam timing????A wheel that isn't on the crank won't work reliably because there are too many factors for it to get out of phase with the crank even if its a timed/tooth belt-------
Not really my place, but I'm going to toss out a possibility, as I seem to recall that there is a single V pulley at the crank, behind the toothed pulley which is dedicated to driving the alternator which is low to the driver's side. If my memory is right (too lazy to search back to find a post reference) then that pulley would indeed be "...the alternator pulley".
Sorry if I'm off base or interfering, Steve.
that would be a crank pulley that drove the alternator-pulleys are named by where they are mounted----I thought he meant that he had timing marks on the pulley on the alternator that he was using as timing reference (would necessitate one to one drive ratio) because of all the congestion around the c rank makes it hard to see any timing marks-----------
Looks good and good luck getting it set up. I really like your new alternator drive pulley with the timing marks on it. :LOL:
Found some time yesterday to fettle the garnish mouldings to a nice fit, A tip for customers fitting these is they were moulded off originals so if you look carefully the original screw hole locations are moulded into them. I just drilled out and used some stainless posidrive screws but I intend to replace with stainless slotted screws over the next few days as they look much better.
We also hope to have front & rear garnish mouldings available very soon.
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