My 26T Coupe build thread

[roadster32]

Pat i meant polishing the face of the washer, the edge is easy

I tried an old polishing pigtail today to do the washers and it worked really well, dunno why i didn't think of it before

Been polishing 3/8" castle nuts today, what a pain they are

for buffing washer i had a some round stock alum that i tap the end to a head size in a flat head allen bolt that would hold them on the stick then buff them one at a time or you could drill and tap some 3/4 by3/4[] stock then hold more then one washer with flat heads i used a bench grinder with a buffing wheel to buff the small stuff

[pat mccarthy]

Pat i meant polishing the face of the washer, the edge is easy

I tried an old polishing pigtail today to do the washers and it worked really well, dunno why i didn't think of it before

Been polishing 3/8" castle nuts today, what a pain they are

well i did not mean the edge i bolted the one side of the washer down with a flat head then i buff the washer face . i did all my button heads and bolts this way bolt them in a stick .them button heads are EZ to buff . the STICK your calling a pig tail .i make up my .AN washer i buy the bigger washer with big O.D then if i need a good fitting 3/8 i buy a 5/16 id washer .i can buy them cheap stack up 15 to 20 on a long bolt and lock them all down with a nut the drive the 3 jaw off the nut and the bolt is a center drill in one end for the live center .then face them all down on the lathe sure beats cutting them out of flat plate and a hole saw that s abit of a pain i needed a off size and made up some like that too

[roadster32]

Gotcha, them button heads are easy to polish, I'm using hex heads as i think they look more old car, I especially like the castle nuts but they are a pain

well i did not mean the edge i bolted the one side of the washer down with a flat head then i buff the washer face . i did all my button heads and bolts this way bolt them in a stick .them button heads are EZ to buff . the STICK your calling a pig tail .i make up my .AN washer i buy the bigger washer with big O.D then if i need a good fitting 3/8 i buy a 5/16 id washer .i can buy them cheap stack up 15 to 20 on a long bolt and lock them all down with a nut the drive the 3 jaw off the nut and the bolt is a center drill in one end for the live center .then face them all down on the lathe sure beats cutting them out of flat plate and a hole saw that s abit of a pain i needed a off size and made up some like that too

[pat mccarthy]

yep hex look good on some things i used the buttons on my inner tins in on my old chevy i bet castle nuts are fun to buff the key slots out on the slots.when did my stuff i sanded then first with a da sander with fine paper 320 and up.have you tried that small sanding cord it only go,s as fine as 180 a good file would works as well .we use to prep the GM concept rims we came up with many ways to get to the hard spots the only bad thing was alot of it was by hand .were i could not buff a spots i like the MX mounted points run them at a lower speed on a die grinder

[roadster32]

I'm pretty lucky Pat i have a pro buffer setup in my workshop and i also have a good friend that is a pro polisher and chromer so he gives me what i need to do the job the best way.
He supplied me with a load of felt wheels (he calls them bobs) that you glue up and then roll them in different grits 80, 180 & 320 they are absolutely fantastic for getting in places and especially good for raduising welds, They have speeded up the polishing process by 50% i reckon.

yep hex look good on some things i used the buttons on my inner tins in on my old chevy i bet castle nuts are fun to buff the key slots out on the slots.when did my stuff i sanded then first with a da sander with fine paper 320 and up.have you tried that small sanding cord it only go,s as fine as 180 a good file would works as well .we use to prep the GM concept rims we came up with many ways to get to the hard spots the only bad thing was alot of it was by hand .were i could not buff a spots i like the MX mounted points run them at a lower speed on a die grinder

[pat mccarthy]

well i not a pro but we did all GM s concept show car line up were some stuff hade to be good to go from raw alum rims to sealer to paint .some we put a brush finsh on and some did go to buffer but had to be better then 400 grit . this is what i was know for not a big deal i could whip one out about 5 hours this is not the best one i did this was ran for some time was my old 572 was back in the shop for a rebuild and welded the block they let it freeze i did not use any mx points on this just rollup s and flaps i make up still like them the best

[roadster32]

Very nice work Pat

[roadster32]

Managed to solve a small problem today, The little pins that hold the brake shoes in place by being put through the backplates and held in place by a top hat and spring were bugging me as they always go rusty and spoil the look of the backplates, was thinking about what to do with them last night and it suddenly came to me

Firstly i ground the flat head off so they were just a 3mm shaft, Next i took some 6mm stainless rivets and made a simple jig to hold them so i could drill a 3mm hole in them, The jig was a bit of 20mm aluminium bar that i drilled and counter bored for the rivet and then drilled a 3mm hole right through, a hole in the side to hold the rivet in place was drilled & tapped 4mm for a grub screw.

(Sorry the pics ain't great, took them with my phone.)















The 3mm shafts were pressed into the hole drilled in the rivet and welded, then the heads were polished. The rest of the day was spent sanding the paint off the fibreglass body as it had never been primed











.

[Whiplash23T]

PS. Hope you didn't get any crude all over Sue's pickup????

[Ken Thurm]

Steve, that's going to look great!
Ken

[roadster32]

I hope so Ken, I thought i would just smooth out the main parts and just scoot the corners and it would look good but the more i look at it the more i need to do all the corners properley, nobody will probably notice but the mad side of my split personality keeps telling me to do it all

I'm usually pretty focused on colours right from the start of a project and had decided on copper flake for the engine and autobox but after my master cylinder came out so sweet i'm thinking of going with the off white engine and trans with copper flake valve covers. it would look very 60's, what do you think ??? Am i mad

Steve, that's going to look great!
Ken

[roadster32]

ha ha ha, no mate i moved it well away.

PS. Hope you didn't get any crude all over Sue's pickup????

[stovens]

Too bad you can't clear coat it to keep that shinny metal look!. Would go great with the stainless steel theme.

[roadster32]

Steve I don't want to go over the top

Too bad you can't clear coat it to keep that shinny metal look!. Would go great with the stainless steel theme.

[roadster32]

I got my steering box bits back from the platers today so bolted it back together, The sector shaft is missing as i'm using a cowl steer setup and it needs to be 5" longer, Its hardened so Steve (rusty coupe) is turning the relevant ends on it as my lathe tooling wouldn't touch it



Its a series 2 Land Rover box which will be mounted on my interior steel framework, the extended sector shaft is supported at the cowl side by a flanged 1" bore rose bearing which again will bolt to the steel frame.



It was in pretty good condition when i got it so just needed a good clean out, a couple of new seals and adjusting correctly.



Outer column is the original land rover with a stainless tube slid over the top, inner column is again land rover, both will be shortened the required amount when mounted.



The rough casing was smoothed off with a tungsten burr in a die grinder, a normal grinder and flap disc and small flap wheels for the corners, It then got 3 coats of black 2 pack epoxy primer and finally 2 coats of 2 pack Off white, Bolts replaced with polished stainless and cover and end plates chromed.