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Thread: Followed Me Home, '33 Build
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
    40FordDeluxe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Wayne, that is awesome work you've done. Since you guys are showing eye candy pics, I have a tech question for ya. When reassembling, after bolt heads get scarred up by tooling, do you guys just touch them up? Or, is it just a better practice to have your bolts and hardware coated with zinc, or even chrome?
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
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  2. #2
    rspears's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe View Post
    Wayne, that is awesome work you've done. Since you guys are showing eye candy pics, I have a tech question for ya. When reassembling, after bolt heads get scarred up by tooling, do you guys just touch them up? Or, is it just a better practice to have your bolts and hardware coated with zinc, or even chrome?
    The bolts/washers/nuts on the chrome suspension components are chromed. For others on the bottom side I did them the same as the frame - two coats of epoxy primer, then finish coat black. After install I just had a bit of catalyzed single stage for touchup, but they really didn't bet scarred up much. Mine's a pure driver, and I live a bit over 1/2 mile back on a gravel road, so I was not going for so much eye candy approach on mine.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  3. #3
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    The bolts/washers/nuts on the chrome suspension components are chromed. For others on the bottom side I did them the same as the frame - two coats of epoxy primer, then finish coat black. After install I just had a bit of catalyzed single stage for touchup, but they really didn't bet scarred up much. Mine's a pure driver, and I live a bit over 1/2 mile back on a gravel road, so I was not going for so much eye candy approach on mine.
    Thanks. From now on on my builds I'm going to try to quit using poof cans and use real paint. I'm tired of the stuff looking crappy after assembly etc. So I'm trying to see what is working for others. Ryan.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  4. #4
    parkwood's Avatar
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    Ryan, like Roger said all the bolts and nuts on the suspension are chrome, but on mine almost every other bolt and nut are Stainless Steel... i polished each and everyone. once polished they stay bright for life... makes it easy to clean.

  5. #5
    rspears's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by parkwood View Post
    Ryan, like Roger said all the bolts and nuts on the suspension are chrome, but on mine almost every other bolt and nut are Stainless Steel... i polished each and everyone. once polished they stay bright for life... makes it easy to clean.
    I'll offer that the polished stainless steel bolts look good, but you want to be careful using them in high stress dynamic applications as their tensile strength characteristics are considerably different than carbon steel. In particular a SS bolt is subject to work hardening and failure in dynamic situations. A buddy used six big button head SS bolts polished to a high luster to hold his crank pulley on the front of the dampner, and after about six months of running found five of six broken and the pulley flopping around when he pulled off the road at a gathering. There's a reason OEM's don't use SS for things like wheel studs. Just be sure of your use and choose the material & tensile strength accordingly.
    johnboy, 34_40 and 36 sedan like this.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  6. #6
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    you got it Roger, nothing with stress on it.... don't want to have the shiny side upside one day...

  7. #7
    rspears's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by parkwood View Post
    you got it Roger, nothing with stress on it.... don't want to have the shiny side upside one day...
    Isn't that the truth!!
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    I'll offer that the polished stainless steel bolts look good, but you want to be careful using them in high stress dynamic applications as their tensile strength characteristics are considerably different than carbon steel. In particular a SS bolt is subject to work hardening and failure in dynamic situations.
    Something we all need to be reminded about, thank you!

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