Thread: Followed Me Home, '33 Build

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Originally Posted by Jack F

Wayne, where is Shingle Springs? I'm guessing Redwood country, maybe near Willow Creek?

Jack.

Jack, shingle springs is about 9 miles west of Placerville Ca. on hwy 50..

Up towards Lake Tahoe, beautiful little spot to live in!

Wayne, that is awesome work you've done. Since you guys are showing eye candy pics, I have a tech question for ya. When reassembling, after bolt heads get scarred up by tooling, do you guys just touch them up? Or, is it just a better practice to have your bolts and hardware coated with zinc, or even chrome?

Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

Wayne, that is awesome work you've done. Since you guys are showing eye candy pics, I have a tech question for ya. When reassembling, after bolt heads get scarred up by tooling, do you guys just touch them up? Or, is it just a better practice to have your bolts and hardware coated with zinc, or even chrome?

The bolts/washers/nuts on the chrome suspension components are chromed. For others on the bottom side I did them the same as the frame - two coats of epoxy primer, then finish coat black. After install I just had a bit of catalyzed single stage for touchup, but they really didn't bet scarred up much. Mine's a pure driver, and I live a bit over 1/2 mile back on a gravel road, so I was not going for so much eye candy approach on mine.

Originally Posted by rspears

The bolts/washers/nuts on the chrome suspension components are chromed. For others on the bottom side I did them the same as the frame - two coats of epoxy primer, then finish coat black. After install I just had a bit of catalyzed single stage for touchup, but they really didn't bet scarred up much. Mine's a pure driver, and I live a bit over 1/2 mile back on a gravel road, so I was not going for so much eye candy approach on mine.

Thanks. From now on on my builds I'm going to try to quit using poof cans and use real paint. I'm tired of the stuff looking crappy after assembly etc. So I'm trying to see what is working for others. Ryan.

Ryan, like Roger said all the bolts and nuts on the suspension are chrome, but on mine almost every other bolt and nut are Stainless Steel... i polished each and everyone. once polished they stay bright for life... makes it easy to clean.

Originally Posted by parkwood

Ryan, like Roger said all the bolts and nuts on the suspension are chrome, but on mine almost every other bolt and nut are Stainless Steel... i polished each and everyone. once polished they stay bright for life... makes it easy to clean.

I'll offer that the polished stainless steel bolts look good, but you want to be careful using them in high stress dynamic applications as their tensile strength characteristics are considerably different than carbon steel. In particular a SS bolt is subject to work hardening and failure in dynamic situations. A buddy used six big button head SS bolts polished to a high luster to hold his crank pulley on the front of the dampner, and after about six months of running found five of six broken and the pulley flopping around when he pulled off the road at a gathering. There's a reason OEM's don't use SS for things like wheel studs. Just be sure of your use and choose the material & tensile strength accordingly.

you got it Roger, nothing with stress on it.... don't want to have the shiny side upside one day...

Originally Posted by parkwood

you got it Roger, nothing with stress on it.... don't want to have the shiny side upside one day...

Isn't that the truth!!

Originally Posted by rspears

I'll offer that the polished stainless steel bolts look good, but you want to be careful using them in high stress dynamic applications as their tensile strength characteristics are considerably different than carbon steel. In particular a SS bolt is subject to work hardening and failure in dynamic situations.

Something we all need to be reminded about, thank you!

You can get 17-4 stainless steel bolts that have nearly twice the tensile strength of typical 18-8 (304). Click on the high-strength corrosion resistant type.

McMaster-Carr

Good info here (above) and a valuable reminder... FYI, most of the stainless bolts available at your local hardware store are grade-4; OK in many applications, but not good for high stress.

Originally Posted by J. Robinson

Good info here (above) and a valuable reminder... FYI, most of the stainless bolts available at your local hardware store are grade-4; OK in many applications, but not good for high stress.

I agree in spades, Jim. And although "high strength, corrosion resistant" bolts are close to twice the strength of the regular SS bolts offered, they are still only slightly higher in strength than a Grade 5 CS bolt. For critical, dynamic service a Grade 8 CS fastener is the right choice. Use SS for non-critical services where you want the "bling" of a polished fastener, not where you're relying on it for safety.

Back in 2010 I laid-back the radiator and grille, which put the filler neck in a very awkward position. To fill the radiator I either parked on a steep slope or jacked up the rear of the car a foot or more. I finally got fed up with it and started looking at options, like adding a filler neck in the top radiator hose, but everything's just too tight. I finally decided the only fix was to cut the top weld, leaving it connected at the bottom, take a pie cut and bend it level.
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I visited with friend Nate Boyer who has Kultured Customs shop, and he said he could do it without taking the radiator out! Sweet!! He ended up chasing pinhole leaks in the old weld, adjacent to his work, and finally just welded around the whole seam because of internal contaminants from 10 years of use. It's going to be so much easier to check & add coolant! Great to have friends who are builders!

Good idea! Came out nice too.