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Thread: Engine Swap - '92 5.0EFI/AOD into '66 Ford F100....
          
   
   

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  1. #31
    rspears's Avatar
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    I agree with Justin. The difference between the two pumps is volume capacity, not a pressure difference. It should start and run OK with the lower volume pump, but might stumble at WOT on a sustained high rpm run. Can you hear the pump running for sure? If so, it sounds like you've got something blocking flow. Maybe an old in-line filter? Have you put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail? That's one of the first things I'd add, just to know what pressure you're getting and eliminate the unknown. You can pick up a little 0-60psi liquid filled gauge for about $20.
    Last edited by rspears; 05-16-2013 at 08:36 PM.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    I agree with Justin. The difference between the two pumps is volume capacity, not a pressure difference. It should start and run OK with the lower volume pump, but might stumble at WOT on a sustained high rpm run. Can you hear the pump running for sure? If so, it sounds like you've got something blocking flow. Maybe an old in-line filter? Have you put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail? That's one of the first things I'd add, just to know what pressure you're getting and eliminate the unknown. You can pick up a little 0-60psi liquid filled gauge for about $20.
    Roger, the fuel filter is new, pressure regulator is new, fuel lines are stock Mustang. I tried using a tire pressure gauge on the release valve on the fuel line (looks like a valve stem) but it didn't register on that. I'll double check the lines, etc tomorrow and see if there's a restriction somewhere....
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  3. #33
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    regular cars and trucks with the 5.0L got 190 LPH pumps, GT's got the 240 LPH and the upgrade is the 255 LPH. They all run on 30-39 PSI so your good there. It should start and run fine if you have at least 30 PSI with 190 LPH..

    As far as the canister, you can plumb it to an old vac solenoid. Some car from the 80's is probably a good source. They just open at cruise using the vac signal. It's how the canisters used to work before electronics took over
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

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  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt167 View Post

    As far as the canister, you can plumb it to an old vac solenoid. Some car from the 80's is probably a good source. They just open at cruise using the vac signal. It's how the canisters used to work before electronics took over
    Thanks Matt! Good idea! So, probably any pre-EFI Ford with a canister will have the vac solenoid?
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyr View Post
    Roger, the fuel filter is new, pressure regulator is new, fuel lines are stock Mustang. I tried using a tire pressure gauge on the release valve on the fuel line (looks like a valve stem) but it didn't register on that. I'll double check the lines, etc tomorrow and see if there's a restriction somewhere....
    Do you know for sure that the pump is running for five seconds when you turn the key "ON"? We chased a no-start condition on a buddy's Deuce coupe all afternoon in a hotel parking lot, only to finally find that he had hidden a pair of OEM master fuses behind the dash panel 25 years ago. The fuel pump fuse was blown, and every time we pressed the schrader valve on the fuel rail we were just bleeding a tiny spray of residual pressure from the last time it ran. We (three of us) all swore that we had heard the pump running, but we were all wrong....
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  6. #36
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    yes, Roger, when I turn the key I watch the light on the fuel pump relay click on for 5 sec, then off. I've also checked it back at the tank and hear the pump come on. I suppose there's a chance I could have done something stupid like hook up the fuel filter backwards or something.....but geez, I hope not!! That would be embarassing!!!
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyr View Post
    Thanks Matt! Good idea! So, probably any pre-EFI Ford with a canister will have the vac solenoid?
    I think so. I just did a quick rockauto search. 1982 Ford Granada with 200 I6 brings up some that look like they will work Bout $10 each. I'v never actually had to replace one of these ( seen quite a few ) but it should do just what you need.
    1982 FORD GRANADA Vapor Canister Purge Valve.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

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  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt167 View Post
    I think so. I just did a quick rockauto search. 1982 Ford Granada with 200 I6 brings up some that look like they will work Bout $10 each. I'v never actually had to replace one of these ( seen quite a few ) but it should do just what you need.
    1982 FORD GRANADA Vapor Canister Purge Valve.
    That valve has 3 hose connections. Where would they hook up? Current canister has 2, one hose from tank and one hose to intake with in-line electrical purge solenoid.....
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyr View Post
    That valve has 3 hose connections. Where would they hook up? Current canister has 2, one hose from tank and one hose to intake with in-line electrical purge solenoid.....
    it goes in line with the evap line that normally runs to the intake. So it has an evap in and an evap out port. It replaces the electrical purge solenoid which should have 2 hoses coming out of it
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  10. #40
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    Got a fuel presser tester gauge this morning. I have 35+PSI at the shrader valve, so apparently fuel pressure is not the issue. Engine turns over fine but doesn't make any real effort to start. I have a full 12V to the coil but only about 9V at the dist end of the coil wire. Does that mean the coil is bad or too weak to start the engine?
    Thoughts??
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  11. #41
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    It seems to me that you need to eliminate the resistance wire.
    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
    The simplest road is usually the last one sought
    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by NTFDAY View Post
    It seems to me that you need to eliminate the resistance wire.
    If you mean the resistance wire from the ignition I eliminated that a long time ago when I installed pertronix on the old engine. Please tell me if you mean something else.
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyr View Post
    If you mean the resistance wire from the ignition I eliminated that a long time ago when I installed pertronix on the old engine. Please tell me if you mean something else.

    No, that's what I was thinking, but I'm pretty sure you need 12v to the coil and it appears that you're dropping it somewhere.
    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
    The simplest road is usually the last one sought
    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyr View Post
    If you mean the resistance wire from the ignition I eliminated that a long time ago when I installed pertronix on the old engine. Please tell me if you mean something else.
    Yes, I have full 12V to the coil. It drops to about 9V from coil to distrib.

    I've tested the coil per these instructions I found on Stangnet:
    to test the coil;

    get an Ohm meter and

    check primary resistance between Pos and Neg terminals on the coil
    resistance should be 0.3 - 1.0 ohms

    check secondary resistance between Pos term and coil wire terminal
    resistance should be 8000 - 11500 ohms

    repeat secondary resistance test between Neg terminal and coil wire terminal
    resistance should be 8000 - 11500 ohms

    check resistance to each terminal and gound(coil case)
    resistance should be infinity


    But my readings all come out less than these....e.g. secondary resistance on both pos & neg terminal are at 7000ohms or less and the primary resistance is at 0. There is a spark from the coil to the distributor but it's not a "fat blue spark" like some say it's supposed to be....
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  15. #45
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    Those readings will be off some using a digital or VTM, the true readings will be with a VTVM. Are you using the Petronix coil?
    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
    The simplest road is usually the last one sought
    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

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