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05-14-2013 12:42 PM #1
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Location
- Prairie City
- Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
- Posts
- 7,300
- Blog Entries
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Randy awesome work! I don't know how I missed this thread. If we ever get around to it, we're putting a 5.0 from a 91 Grand Marquis in my Mom's 68 Mustang. I purchased a Painless wiring kit for it because I didn't want to mess with the nasty oily OE one from the donor car. I'm hoping the bracketry for the front will fit in the Mustang. It should. Anyway, it's looking really nice! Keep at it!Ryan
1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
Tire Sizes
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05-16-2013 07:45 PM #2
Well, guess what? I connected the red/blue wire to the small post on the starter relay and voila!! She cranks with the key!!!
So here's another question for ya.....the 255LPH fuel pump will be here tomorrow. In the meantime, Justin at Tanks, Inc. said he thought the engine should start & run at idle even with the 190LPH pump, however, I have had no luck with that. I have fire to the coil, distrib & plugs. There is gas in the gas lines but it has no pressure to speak of.
I put a new EGR valve (computer said I needed one) and a new fuel pressure regulator (figured I might as well change it too).
Do you think the fuel system is just not creating enough pressure with the lower volume pump to let it start and run or do you think there are other things I need to check?
Also, I went to all the trouble to transfer the charcoal canister from the Mustang complete with the purge solenoid. Now that I'm using the aftermarket wiring harness, there is no connection for the purge solenoid. Since I already have the line from the tank to the canister, I thought I'd just remove the purge solenoid and use the canister as my tank vent. Will that work or should I just get rid of it?"It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
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05-16-2013 08:34 PM #3
I agree with Justin. The difference between the two pumps is volume capacity, not a pressure difference. It should start and run OK with the lower volume pump, but might stumble at WOT on a sustained high rpm run. Can you hear the pump running for sure? If so, it sounds like you've got something blocking flow. Maybe an old in-line filter? Have you put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail? That's one of the first things I'd add, just to know what pressure you're getting and eliminate the unknown. You can pick up a little 0-60psi liquid filled gauge for about $20.Last edited by rspears; 05-16-2013 at 08:36 PM.
Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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05-16-2013 08:41 PM #4
Roger, the fuel filter is new, pressure regulator is new, fuel lines are stock Mustang. I tried using a tire pressure gauge on the release valve on the fuel line (looks like a valve stem) but it didn't register on that. I'll double check the lines, etc tomorrow and see if there's a restriction somewhere...."It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
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05-16-2013 08:58 PM #5
Do you know for sure that the pump is running for five seconds when you turn the key "ON"? We chased a no-start condition on a buddy's Deuce coupe all afternoon in a hotel parking lot, only to finally find that he had hidden a pair of OEM master fuses behind the dash panel 25 years ago. The fuel pump fuse was blown, and every time we pressed the schrader valve on the fuel rail we were just bleeding a tiny spray of residual pressure from the last time it ran. We (three of us) all swore that we had heard the pump running, but we were all wrong....Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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05-16-2013 08:45 PM #6
regular cars and trucks with the 5.0L got 190 LPH pumps, GT's got the 240 LPH and the upgrade is the 255 LPH. They all run on 30-39 PSI so your good there. It should start and run fine if you have at least 30 PSI with 190 LPH..
As far as the canister, you can plumb it to an old vac solenoid. Some car from the 80's is probably a good source. They just open at cruise using the vac signal. It's how the canisters used to work before electronics took overYou don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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05-16-2013 08:49 PM #7
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05-16-2013 09:11 PM #8
I think so. I just did a quick rockauto search. 1982 Ford Granada with 200 I6 brings up some that look like they will work Bout $10 each. I'v never actually had to replace one of these ( seen quite a few ) but it should do just what you need.
1982 FORD GRANADA Vapor Canister Purge Valve.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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05-16-2013 09:17 PM #9
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05-16-2013 09:05 PM #10
yes, Roger, when I turn the key I watch the light on the fuel pump relay click on for 5 sec, then off. I've also checked it back at the tank and hear the pump come on. I suppose there's a chance I could have done something stupid like hook up the fuel filter backwards or something.....but geez, I hope not!! That would be embarassing!!!"It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
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05-17-2013 01:14 PM #11
Got a fuel presser tester gauge this morning. I have 35+PSI at the shrader valve, so apparently fuel pressure is not the issue. Engine turns over fine but doesn't make any real effort to start. I have a full 12V to the coil but only about 9V at the dist end of the coil wire. Does that mean the coil is bad or too weak to start the engine?
Thoughts??"It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
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05-17-2013 01:30 PM #12
It seems to me that you need to eliminate the resistance wire.Ken Thomas
NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
The simplest road is usually the last one sought
Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing
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05-17-2013 01:41 PM #13
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05-17-2013 01:56 PM #14
Ken Thomas
NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
The simplest road is usually the last one sought
Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing
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05-17-2013 02:03 PM #15
Yes, I have full 12V to the coil. It drops to about 9V from coil to distrib.
I've tested the coil per these instructions I found on Stangnet:
to test the coil;
get an Ohm meter and
check primary resistance between Pos and Neg terminals on the coil
resistance should be 0.3 - 1.0 ohms
check secondary resistance between Pos term and coil wire terminal
resistance should be 8000 - 11500 ohms
repeat secondary resistance test between Neg terminal and coil wire terminal
resistance should be 8000 - 11500 ohms
check resistance to each terminal and gound(coil case)
resistance should be infinity
But my readings all come out less than these....e.g. secondary resistance on both pos & neg terminal are at 7000ohms or less and the primary resistance is at 0. There is a spark from the coil to the distributor but it's not a "fat blue spark" like some say it's supposed to be...."It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
I believe this was somewhere around 2015, Rick, Rosie and Johnboy
John Norton aka johnboy