Thread: break in

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what is everyones opinion on engine break in? i allways heard 1000 miles are varying speeds, some say drive it like you stole it, some say use light oil for better heat distribution, etc,,

The way the factories tell you to break in a marine engine should be similar to what would work for a car engine. All of them, Mercruiser, Volvo, etc say pretty much the same thing. For the first 10 hours don't run it wide open or lug it. Run it progressively higher, so for a while run at like 3000 rpms, then move up to 3500, then go back down to 3000. After the breakin change the oil and filter and you are good to go.

I just learned recently that roller cam engines (like the Vortec in my T) do not need the traditional running at 2500 rpm routine to mate the cam and lifters. I was always taught you don't idle an engine for for the first half hour or so, but the guys on here educated me that roller cams don't have that problem. As for oil, I have started running Shell Rotella T, and it seems to be doing a good job so far.

I'm sure some of the really smart engine builders on here will have their own personal thoughts on how to best do it.

Don

mechanics at werk suggested using marvel mystry oil, but i thought that was supose to reduce friction, isnt that what you really want during the break in?
and what about running at 2500 rpm?

How Many Miles?????????

Originally Posted by lightning1901

what is everyones opinion on engine break in? i allways heard 1000 miles are varying speeds, some say drive it like you stole it, some say use light oil for better heat distribution, etc,,

It really depends on your ring package.
There are so many different varibles I don't know where to start.
A harder ring ie Plasma,Plasma moly etc. are very hard and require the right finish the right cross hatch etc.
I.M.O.,I would never run any syn. at less than 3,000 miles and then I would introduce it very slowly.
I like to start at 2,000 rpm's and vary the speed in 500 rpm steps to change the oil splash for 20 min.
I have seen rings that have not seated after 15 hard pulls on the dyno.
I have also seen a modified run an entire heat race with smoke coming out of the beathers at 7,500 rpm's showing the rings where not seated yet.

[QUOTE=erik erikson]It really depends on your ring package.
There are so many different varibles I don't know where to start.
A harder ring ie Plasma,Plasma moly etc. are very hard and require the right finish the right cross hatch etc.
I.M.O.,I would never run any syn. at less than 3,000 miles and then I would introduce it very slowly.
I like to start at 2,000 rpm's and vary the speed in 500 rpm steps to change the oil splash for 20 min.
I have seen rings that have not seated after 15 hard pulls on the dyno.
I have also seen a modified run an entire heat race with smoke coming out of the beathers at 7,500 rpm's showing the rings where not seated yet.[/QUOTE
Assuming he is talking about a street vehicle then what do you do in such a case or are you talking street? I ask because I am rebuilding one and have this concern.I check all clearances more than one time including installed ring gap(top) and designate what rings go in which cylinder before install. But if he gets smoke out the pipes then would there be a time limit so to speak at which you would figure a lack of seat before you tear down?

Originally Posted by DennyW

How many miles ???????????

Please define that a little ?? What motor, what rings ? What cylinder finish ???????? That is a blank question !

Denny you are a Hoot.
In all honesty I don't know cyl. finish or rings. The engine(400 sbc .03 over) was purchased from an individual that had it professionally built.He was never able to build a car so I bought it.It has KB Hypereutectic T6 Alloy pistons (if that helps),# 993 heads pro rated and polished,9.5 comp.ratio,milidon ss valves,k-motion racing triple valve springs,rhoads lifters w/indexed lifter ports.86 cc'd chambers,scorpion roller rocker system,comp. (no card) special grind cam.I am not into engine building so i can only guess what break in procedure I should use.At present I have 435 Mi. using Quaker state 10W 40 oil.I drive at different speeds and it seems to perform real well.I was under the impression that 500 Mi. was the standard break in Mi.I would like to go to synthetic oil after break in ,but some of the group say go 2,000 and 3,000 Mi.

Confused as I don't want to damage the engine by not breaking it in properly.

If the engine has never been fired, your first concern should be the initial run in. With a flat tappet cam this is a period of 20 minutes at 2000 RPM. This requires that you have plenty of air flow to the radiator (BIG fan in front of it), the timing is set to spec and the cooling system is filled and "burped". I do all of mine with an oil pressure and water temp gauge either under the hood where I can watch them, or someone sitting in the car to watch them. This initial run in is THE single most important time in determining how long your camshaft is going to last!!!! Anyway, after the 20 minute run-in I change the oil and filter to eliminate any contaminants left in the engine during the assembly or storage process. After this I will run the engine at varying speeds for the first 500 miles avoiding lugging or over revving the engine, then change the oil and filter again. The rings should be seated by now and it should be ok to just drive the car normally. I run synthetic oil in all my own cars, but I don't switch a fresh engine in a street car over to it til the engine has 3,000 miles on it.....

[QUOTE=FAYLUR]

Originally Posted by erik erikson

It really depends on your ring package.
There are so many different varibles I don't know where to start.
A harder ring ie Plasma,Plasma moly etc. are very hard and require the right finish the right cross hatch etc.
I.M.O.,I would never run any syn. at less than 3,000 miles and then I would introduce it very slowly.
I like to start at 2,000 rpm's and vary the speed in 500 rpm steps to change the oil splash for 20 min.
I have seen rings that have not seated after 15 hard pulls on the dyno.
I have also seen a modified run an entire heat race with smoke coming out of the beathers at 7,500 rpm's showing the rings where not seated yet.[/QUOTE
Assuming he is talking about a street vehicle then what do you do in such a case or are you talking street? I ask because I am rebuilding one and have this concern.I check all clearances more than one time including installed ring gap(top) and designate what rings go in which cylinder before install. But if he gets smoke out the pipes then would there be a time limit so to speak at which you would figure a lack of seat before you tear down?

Like Denny say's you could always do a leak-down test.
In the engines I build I don't use a heavy oil or syn. oil or grease in the bores.
I will spray CRC or WD-40 in the bores and on the piston skirts,in the piston ring lands making sure the rings spin freely on the pistons.
You will have a lot of people disagree with my last statement.

Originally Posted by Don Dalton

Denny you are a Hoot.
In all honesty I don't know cyl. finish or rings. The engine(400 sbc .03 over) was purchased from an individual that had it professionally built.He was never able to build a car so I bought it.It has KB Hypereutectic T6 Alloy pistons (if that helps),# 993 heads pro rated and polished,9.5 comp.ratio,milidon ss valves,k-motion racing triple valve springs,rhoads lifters w/indexed lifter ports.86 cc'd chambers,scorpion roller rocker system,comp. (no card) special grind cam.I am not into engine building so i can only guess what break in procedure I should use.At present I have 435 Mi. using Quaker state 10W 40 oil.I drive at different speeds and it seems to perform real well.I was under the impression that 500 Mi. was the standard break in Mi.I would like to go to synthetic oil after break in ,but some of the group say go 2,000 and 3,000 Mi.

Confused as I don't want to damage the engine by not breaking it in properly.

I have read this post and something does not add up here.
Triple valve springs with a hyd. cam??
Most hyd. cams in a sbc run a single spring with a dampner.
If it does have triple springs it will take the cam right out of it in less than a minute.

Originally Posted by erik erikson

I have read this post and something does not add up here.
Triple valve springs with a hyd. cam??
Most hyd. cams in a sbc run a single spring with a dampner.
If it does have triple springs it will take the cam right out of it in less than a minute.

Erik: How do you inspect the valve springs to verify single verses triple? Like I said the engine was built by another person and the specs. that I have were with the engine.Is it possible that the triple springs go in after break in?The car is running well,but has not been on the Dyno.I guess without the cam card I would only be guessing the HP.I was told it was built in Nashville Tn. by a NASCAR mechanic @ a cost of $7,000.I guess I will have to wait until the engine is torn down(not now)to verify all the specs. that came with the engine.It burns me to not really know what i have in this engine.The list is long on specs.and build ,but no cam card which is critical to determine HP.

I missed the part on the triple springs!!! Swap in some stock ones, preferably well worn, for the initial break in. That much spring pressure would kill the cam!!!!!

Originally Posted by Don Dalton

Erik: How do you inspect the valve springs to verify single verses triple? Like I said the engine was built by another person and the specs. that I have were with the engine.Is it possible that the triple springs go in after break in?The car is running well,but has not been on the Dyno.I guess without the cam card I would only be guessing the HP.I was told it was built in Nashville Tn. by a NASCAR mechanic @ a cost of $7,000.I guess I will have to wait until the engine is torn down(not now)to verify all the specs. that came with the engine.It burns me to not really know what i have in this engine.The list is long on specs.and build ,but no cam card which is critical to determine HP.

Don,if you pull the valve covers off you should be able to see the valve springs.
If it has multi-springs you should be able to see one spring and then the springs inside with the smaller diameter.
I am not trying to cause a problem but $7,000 seems like a very large amount of money for a hyd. cammed engine with ported stocker heads on it.