Thread: break in

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The way the factories tell you to break in a marine engine should be similar to what would work for a car engine. All of them, Mercruiser, Volvo, etc say pretty much the same thing. For the first 10 hours don't run it wide open or lug it. Run it progressively higher, so for a while run at like 3000 rpms, then move up to 3500, then go back down to 3000. After the breakin change the oil and filter and you are good to go.

I just learned recently that roller cam engines (like the Vortec in my T) do not need the traditional running at 2500 rpm routine to mate the cam and lifters. I was always taught you don't idle an engine for for the first half hour or so, but the guys on here educated me that roller cams don't have that problem. As for oil, I have started running Shell Rotella T, and it seems to be doing a good job so far.

I'm sure some of the really smart engine builders on here will have their own personal thoughts on how to best do it.

Don

mechanics at werk suggested using marvel mystry oil, but i thought that was supose to reduce friction, isnt that what you really want during the break in?
and what about running at 2500 rpm?

How Many Miles?????????

Originally Posted by DennyW

How many miles ???????????

Please define that a little ?? What motor, what rings ? What cylinder finish ???????? That is a blank question !

Denny you are a Hoot.
In all honesty I don't know cyl. finish or rings. The engine(400 sbc .03 over) was purchased from an individual that had it professionally built.He was never able to build a car so I bought it.It has KB Hypereutectic T6 Alloy pistons (if that helps),# 993 heads pro rated and polished,9.5 comp.ratio,milidon ss valves,k-motion racing triple valve springs,rhoads lifters w/indexed lifter ports.86 cc'd chambers,scorpion roller rocker system,comp. (no card) special grind cam.I am not into engine building so i can only guess what break in procedure I should use.At present I have 435 Mi. using Quaker state 10W 40 oil.I drive at different speeds and it seems to perform real well.I was under the impression that 500 Mi. was the standard break in Mi.I would like to go to synthetic oil after break in ,but some of the group say go 2,000 and 3,000 Mi.

Confused as I don't want to damage the engine by not breaking it in properly.

Originally Posted by Don Dalton

Denny you are a Hoot.
In all honesty I don't know cyl. finish or rings. The engine(400 sbc .03 over) was purchased from an individual that had it professionally built.He was never able to build a car so I bought it.It has KB Hypereutectic T6 Alloy pistons (if that helps),# 993 heads pro rated and polished,9.5 comp.ratio,milidon ss valves,k-motion racing triple valve springs,rhoads lifters w/indexed lifter ports.86 cc'd chambers,scorpion roller rocker system,comp. (no card) special grind cam.I am not into engine building so i can only guess what break in procedure I should use.At present I have 435 Mi. using Quaker state 10W 40 oil.I drive at different speeds and it seems to perform real well.I was under the impression that 500 Mi. was the standard break in Mi.I would like to go to synthetic oil after break in ,but some of the group say go 2,000 and 3,000 Mi.

Confused as I don't want to damage the engine by not breaking it in properly.

I have read this post and something does not add up here.
Triple valve springs with a hyd. cam??
Most hyd. cams in a sbc run a single spring with a dampner.
If it does have triple springs it will take the cam right out of it in less than a minute.

Originally Posted by erik erikson

I have read this post and something does not add up here.
Triple valve springs with a hyd. cam??
Most hyd. cams in a sbc run a single spring with a dampner.
If it does have triple springs it will take the cam right out of it in less than a minute.

Erik: How do you inspect the valve springs to verify single verses triple? Like I said the engine was built by another person and the specs. that I have were with the engine.Is it possible that the triple springs go in after break in?The car is running well,but has not been on the Dyno.I guess without the cam card I would only be guessing the HP.I was told it was built in Nashville Tn. by a NASCAR mechanic @ a cost of $7,000.I guess I will have to wait until the engine is torn down(not now)to verify all the specs. that came with the engine.It burns me to not really know what i have in this engine.The list is long on specs.and build ,but no cam card which is critical to determine HP.

Originally Posted by Don Dalton

Erik: How do you inspect the valve springs to verify single verses triple? Like I said the engine was built by another person and the specs. that I have were with the engine.Is it possible that the triple springs go in after break in?The car is running well,but has not been on the Dyno.I guess without the cam card I would only be guessing the HP.I was told it was built in Nashville Tn. by a NASCAR mechanic @ a cost of $7,000.I guess I will have to wait until the engine is torn down(not now)to verify all the specs. that came with the engine.It burns me to not really know what i have in this engine.The list is long on specs.and build ,but no cam card which is critical to determine HP.

Don,if you pull the valve covers off you should be able to see the valve springs.
If it has multi-springs you should be able to see one spring and then the springs inside with the smaller diameter.
I am not trying to cause a problem but $7,000 seems like a very large amount of money for a hyd. cammed engine with ported stocker heads on it.