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Thread: 1932 Ford Coupe Project Thread
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Sep 2007
    Location
    New Bedford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
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    14,754

    I know it's not the same thing "exactly".. but... I've seen more than a few to many brass nipples break when hanging out like that in marine applications.

    possibly exchange the nipple between the valve and tank for a "CLOSE" nipple in heavy red brass. Like I said, not really the same thing but, it just "jumped" out at me hanging out there with no support on the discharge side.

    Just a comment Pat.. not a critique or anything else implied!!!

  2. #2
    patfromjersey's Avatar
    patfromjersey is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Oct 2011
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    Glen Burnie
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1932 5W Coupe
    Posts
    138

    Quote Originally Posted by 34_40 View Post
    I know it's not the same thing "exactly".. but... I've seen more than a few to many brass nipples break when hanging out like that in marine applications.
    http://www.clubhotrod.com/images/smilies/smile.gif
    possibly exchange the nipple between the valve and tank for a "CLOSE" nipple in heavy red brass. Like I said, not really the same thing but, it just "jumped" out at me hanging out there with no support on the discharge side.

    Just a comment Pat.. not a critique or anything else implied!!!
    No, thank you for the advice! I never really thought about that, but I decided I will use a steel close nipple when I do the final assembly. I appreciate when someone steps up with things that don't look right.

    I've been a busy little beaver on my car the past few weeks, so I have some more pics to share. After tomorrow, I will be ready to "blow" it apart and start sandblasting and painting everything on the chassis. I'm a total nut case, so I decided to redo my exhaust system. I never really liked the rush job on did on the exhaust, and those horrible hangers I had on the DynoMax mufflers. I decided to cut everything off and start fresh, with a set of 3" Summit glasspacks that I had on my brother's 47 Ford Truck. I cut out the Dynomax ones, and welded in those. I also bought a set of ball and socket connectors for the pipe from the header, to the muffler/tailpipe piece. I added a nice pipe hanger midway for support, and kept the tailpipe mount in the back. This system comes out 1-2-3 and is so simple. I also have a ton of room now for a driveshaft loop, which I still have to weld in. I also finished running the braided line for the fuel line. The regulator mount was another project, because it wasn't made for my MagnaFuel regulator like it said it was, so I had to modify that and stick it on the driver's side, which I really didn't want to do. All in all, I'm happy how it all turned out. Here's some pictures....

    Old exhaust cut out, new tank to pump line run. I will be replacing that brass nipple with a steel close nipple



    I will finish drilling and tapping for the screws that hold all the braided lines to the frame when I pull everything out. All my braided line will have those rubber insulated clamps. Home Depot had them on the shelf.



    Here's the new exhaust system in place, tack welded, ready to come out and final weld. I can't wait to hear this big Ford cam through those glasspacks.




    I did a leak test on each of the four exhaust pieces, before I painted them with High Temp Header paint. I found these pipe plugs in Lowes, that fit my 3" exhaust perfect. On one of the ends, I drilled a small 1/8" hole to blow air through to charge it up and spray with soapy water. Don't add too much air if it's tight, or you'll blow one of the plugs into something, like a house. LOL Don't ask me how I know that. I had a couple small leaks which I rewelded. I'm just an amatuer welder and don't get much practice time, but my exhaust will be leak free. No more bubbles after firing up the welder again.





    Here's where I had to modify my cool regulator bracket I bought. On the passenger side, the bracket was in the way of the AN fitting to the fuel bowl, and I couldn't screw the hose in. I had to move it to the drivers side, and use 180* fittings to keep everything tight. I think with the heater hoses, it would have been in the way of that too. I didn't want to mount it to the firewall, so that's why I went this route.










    Here's some pics of the fuel line routing. I love braided line. It kind of goes with the theme of my project; overkill.













    Here's my four exhaust pieces hanging and drying. I was going to Jet Hot Coat all of this, but my welds aren't pretty enough for that expense. I can take it off and touch everything up when I want. I did spend alot of time on the 90* drop under the frame, so that will look good from the outside. The other welds are under the body, so they won't be seen. I will just send the Jayster Headers back to Sanderson for a recoat, since I had cylinders 4 and 8 reworked. Also, I must have had a bad ground at one time with the Mig Welder, and I had the stainless fuel line drapped across the engine and headers. I had two burn marks from the line to the header pipe that needs to be retouched. LOL I chopped out those sections of braided line.



    Lastly, how cool are my Maryland plates? My Dad and I are both Pat, so I thought this was fitting. I'm so glad my first choice wasn't taken.

    New Age Motorsports 32 5/W 521/C6


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