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Thread: 1932 Ford Coupe Project Thread
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gardner, KS
    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe, '32 HiBoy Roadster
    Posts
    11,243

    Glad the ratchet strap suggestion helped you get over the hump, Pat! By the time you're ready for the body to go back on after paint you may have a bunch of those new neighbors itching to help set it in place so they can claim rights to a ride!!
    You might want to take a look at adapting a pair of engine stands for a chassis rotisserie now....
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  2. #2
    ednam is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    May 2013
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    Monroe
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    Hi Pat! Ed & Chris here looks like your having alot of fun working on your project, hows dad doing, I think while you have the body off you should order from speedway stainless steel thru-frame brake line fittings (#910--31360) place behind rear crossmenber on each side it will look alot neater than tab above and below chassis rails, I forgot to tell you. To help with bleeding the brakes, just remember master cylinder, wheel cylinder and calipers are on the same level, use brake bleeder and vacuum pump kit it will make life easier just becareful when using it.

    Now TP HVLP Turbine System is a nice unit, I have one since they first came out 20 years or so ago, no water problem, nice dry air but the more the unit is used for a complete paint job the hotter the air becomes, watch your outside temp because the air going thru the turbine will get much hotter the paint will dry faster so if reudcer is 70 -75 degrees move up to 80 - 85 degree limit. If it was a small part no problem, but larger overall paint job it will dry too fast on you.

    Also, being your first paintwork, I'de advise using a basecoat/clearcoat system. Small parts are easier to achieve good metallic layout, but you could end up with zebra stripes and blotches. With a Basecoat System you have excellent control of the metallic layout. Basecoat tacks up very fast making it difficult to run or sag. Allow Basecoat to dry overnight to prevent solvent pops.

    Also, should the car ever see chipped paint, you stand a good chance of touching it up, in many cases perfectly. With single stage, it's the whole panel or the whole piece. Do-over. Remember its not the paint or spraygun, its the painter that make job come out good. Call us for more info on painting, for more insight.

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