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Thread: Any machinists/fabricators out there?
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    cffisher's Avatar
    cffisher is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I don't know the diamiter of the shoulder but you could make a sleve ID same as bolt and OD smaller than shoulder. Cut it to the length of the space between the finished surface and the tubing. Then when you tighten it you will be tightening it to the tube not the fiberglass. In efect you would be making a shoulder bolt.
    Charlie
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  2. #2
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    Very good idea... I may steal that.

  3. #3
    cffisher's Avatar
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    its yours to do with as you wish
    Charlie
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  4. #4
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    Here's a photo someone sent me of an unfinished Kilbourne body like mine... i know the framework is 1 1/4" square tubing, and it looks like the wraparound flange of the fiberglass is also close to 1 1/4", so combined, that would be "about" 2 1/2" from the top surface of the body to the bottom of the support bar. The flush mount kit in the above post measures 3" overall, not counting the thread-in clevis... if my car looks like this when i pull the interior panel away, the standard flush-mount setup MAY be long enough... What do you think?
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  5. #5
    cffisher's Avatar
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    Your still going to have to make, or buy somthing so you don't draw the fiberglass in/down when you tighten up the nut.
    Charlie
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by cffisher
    I don't know the diamiter of the shoulder but you could make a sleve ID same as bolt and OD smaller than shoulder. Cut it to the length of the space between the finished surface and the tubing. Then when you tighten it you will be tightening it to the tube not the fiberglass. In efect you would be making a shoulder bolt.
    I agree this should work.
    I know the weather is not the best around here but we are 2 hours or so away from you . If you were to drive up here some weekend I am sure we can work something out. I am 12 miles north of Carlisle

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