Any machinists/fabricators out there?

I'd like to commission a project to someone who's interested/capable. Here is the problem: I want to install a Sid Chavers Bop Top on my deuce, but it currently has no tabs to mount the top... i would like to buy the flush mount tab kit from Time Machines Unlimited so that i can have a clean looking side profile when the top is removed, and also because the car is finished, and i think the flush mount kit would be easier to install than the stock type tabs. Here is a picture of the flush mount kit as they sell it:
http://www.timemachinesunlimited.com...ducts/FBMK.jpg

Now, here's where the fabrication part comes in... As you can see, the kit gives you these little blocks that you are supposed to fiberglass under your body, then the nut sandwiches the block between the top of the quarter panel and itself. On my car, there is a reinforcement bar of 1 1/4" square tubing about 2" below the top surface of the 1/4 panel. What I would LIKE to do is extend the rod from the top, completely through this square tubing, and put the nut on the underside of the square tube, instead of using the block they provide. I don't think their posts are long enough to do this, as they would need to be about 4" long. I'd like to have 2 longer posts made, similar to the ones shown, with a thread-in clevis that has a hole 1" above the body surface. Basically, I need one of these kits hand fabricated about 1" longer than Time Machines makes them. They get 185.00 for this setup, which I would pay if they'd work... I just don't think they will be long enough, and need something similar constructed. For me its an impossibility, but perhaps someone with some machining skills could fab up a set of these without alot of hassle. I'm willing to pay for a set of these made from stainless, if anyone is capable of doing it. Any takers? -Joe

I'm no atrist and can't draw on here but maybe you can understand this. If you were to drill a pilot hole through the body and the square tube, then use a hole saw from the bottom you would then be able to use this kit as is. The hole saw would have to be bigenough to let you put the nut through it along with a deep well socket.
Not seeing it I'm just guessing it will work

take the post and cut at the front start of the thread and add one pice of ss tig weld it in that is how i would do it could make the post as long as you want i would turn it down of a press and v out for a two pass weld it would be much cheaper than making a new pice and i can do it or any one with some welding and machining skill

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Originally Posted by cffisher

I'm no atrist and can't draw on here but maybe you can understand this. If you were to drill a pilot hole through the body and the square tube, then use a hole saw from the bottom you would then be able to use this kit as is. The hole saw would have to be bigenough to let you put the nut through it along with a deep well socket.
Not seeing it I'm just guessing it will work

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This is a possibility I have thought of too, however, the other part i didnt mention is that I'm trying to do this installation without completely removing the interior side panel... its glued to the car with some nasty stuff on top, not contact cement but more like superglue... Its tacked along the door opening, which i can pull back. was hoping to just pull it back far enough to thread a nut on the bottom of the pin coming through, as i can get enough access to do that with just the front and lower edge of the interior panel removed, leaving the top edge adhered to the painted body edge, and not messing up the vinyl nor the paint. I don't think i can get in there and do any serious cutting or hole sawing from the bottom without having the trim panel completely off... I may try that though, just drill a giant hole in the bottom of the tube big enough to get the nut in. (changing stuff on finished cars sucks!)

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Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

take the post and cut at the front start of the thread and add one pice of ss tig weld it in that is how i would do it could make the post as long as you want i would turn it down of a press and v out for a two pass weld it would be much cheaper than making a new pice and i can do it or any one with some welding and machining skill

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If it comes to this, could you do it for me if i mailed them to you? As I said, I have no machining capabilities nor welding skills needed for something like that. I'll gladly pay you for your time...

I talked to the manufacturer today, they are going to make me up a custom set an inch longer than standard... I was told i still need to put something between the top of the bar and the fiberglass though, to prevent the top of the pin from pulling through the fiberglass when the nut is torqued... I can already see another major project coming up with this Bop Top project! Stay tuned... :rolleyes:

I don't know the diamiter of the shoulder but you could make a sleve ID same as bolt and OD smaller than shoulder. Cut it to the length of the space between the finished surface and the tubing. Then when you tighten it you will be tightening it to the tube not the fiberglass. In efect you would be making a shoulder bolt.

Very good idea... I may steal that.

its yours to do with as you wish

Here's a photo someone sent me of an unfinished Kilbourne body like mine... i know the framework is 1 1/4" square tubing, and it looks like the wraparound flange of the fiberglass is also close to 1 1/4", so combined, that would be "about" 2 1/2" from the top surface of the body to the bottom of the support bar. The flush mount kit in the above post measures 3" overall, not counting the thread-in clevis... if my car looks like this when i pull the interior panel away, the standard flush-mount setup MAY be long enough... What do you think?

Your still going to have to make, or buy somthing so you don't draw the fiberglass in/down when you tighten up the nut.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cffisher

I don't know the diamiter of the shoulder but you could make a sleve ID same as bolt and OD smaller than shoulder. Cut it to the length of the space between the finished surface and the tubing. Then when you tighten it you will be tightening it to the tube not the fiberglass. In efect you would be making a shoulder bolt.

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I agree this should work.
I know the weather is not the best around here but we are 2 hours or so away from you . If you were to drive up here some weekend I am sure we can work something out. I am 12 miles north of Carlisle