Thread: Any machinists/fabricators out there?

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Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

take the post and cut at the front start of the thread and add one pice of ss tig weld it in that is how i would do it could make the post as long as you want i would turn it down of a press and v out for a two pass weld it would be much cheaper than making a new pice and i can do it or any one with some welding and machining skill

If it comes to this, could you do it for me if i mailed them to you? As I said, I have no machining capabilities nor welding skills needed for something like that. I'll gladly pay you for your time...

I talked to the manufacturer today, they are going to make me up a custom set an inch longer than standard... I was told i still need to put something between the top of the bar and the fiberglass though, to prevent the top of the pin from pulling through the fiberglass when the nut is torqued... I can already see another major project coming up with this Bop Top project! Stay tuned...

I don't know the diamiter of the shoulder but you could make a sleve ID same as bolt and OD smaller than shoulder. Cut it to the length of the space between the finished surface and the tubing. Then when you tighten it you will be tightening it to the tube not the fiberglass. In efect you would be making a shoulder bolt.

Very good idea... I may steal that.

its yours to do with as you wish

Here's a photo someone sent me of an unfinished Kilbourne body like mine... i know the framework is 1 1/4" square tubing, and it looks like the wraparound flange of the fiberglass is also close to 1 1/4", so combined, that would be "about" 2 1/2" from the top surface of the body to the bottom of the support bar. The flush mount kit in the above post measures 3" overall, not counting the thread-in clevis... if my car looks like this when i pull the interior panel away, the standard flush-mount setup MAY be long enough... What do you think?

Your still going to have to make, or buy somthing so you don't draw the fiberglass in/down when you tighten up the nut.

Originally Posted by cffisher

I don't know the diamiter of the shoulder but you could make a sleve ID same as bolt and OD smaller than shoulder. Cut it to the length of the space between the finished surface and the tubing. Then when you tighten it you will be tightening it to the tube not the fiberglass. In efect you would be making a shoulder bolt.

I agree this should work.
I know the weather is not the best around here but we are 2 hours or so away from you . If you were to drive up here some weekend I am sure we can work something out. I am 12 miles north of Carlisle