Diy no sew upholstery thread

[Retired]

I have a question.. I have to do the complete interior. I have most of the butyl rubber pad down, and up the firewall. I still have to do inside the doors. My question for now has to do with the backing boards used for door panels. I used 1/8" paneling. Ugly face, but it will be covered.. I made the panel smooth with the edges. Should I cut that back by 1/8"to make room for material going over the edges?? Also.. Should all of the rubber seals be in place before starting the door panels?? Thanks.. Al

Al, I'm no expert by any means. I cut my closed cell foam all the way to the edge of the panel board. My panel board was from 1/8" non-wood panels bought as 4'X8' @ home depot. The panels I used where smooth painted on one side and bare on the other. Which either side you use, you want to rough up that surface a bit so your glue holds tight. I cut my panels nearly all the way to the edge of the door. Your probably good using 1/8" from the edge. If your using the push through nylon panel clips, the holes need to be pre-cut and verified for fitment before covering the panel.

I'm not sure I know what your talking about rubber seals. The door panel shouldn't interfere with any door seals/weatherstripping. Your windlace spoken of earlier should touch your door panel when the door in closed. Have your windlace already installed before doing the rear interior panels. They (rear panels) will butt up to the very edge of the windlace to give a nice finished look. ~robert

[rspears]

.... My panel board was from 1/8" non-wood panels bought as 4'X8' @ home depot. The panels I used where smooth painted on one side and bare on the other. ~robert

Robert,
What do you mean "non-wood"? Masonite?

[Retired]

Robert,
What do you mean "non-wood"? Masonite?

Correct. Guess I should have said Masonite. Anyway.. It was cheap and I'm on a budget.

There is some materials out there thats plastic, but pricy. Roddoors sold it molded into designs under thier name (out-of bussiness) There is a vendor or two on eBay (gotta luv it) selling door panel material, but pricy. You gotta remember the original was made from a form of matted thick paper material. The masonite is a tad heavier but easy to cut. ~robert

[rspears]

Correct. Guess I should have said Masonite. Anyway.. It was cheap and I'm on a budget.

There is some materials out there thats plastic, but pricy. Roddoors sold it molded into designs under thier name (out-of bussiness) There is a vendor or two on eBay (gotta luv it) selling door panel material, but pricy. You gotta remember the original was made from a form of matted thick paper material. The masonite is a tad heavier but easy to cut. ~robert

I was at Lowe's today looking at their materials. I need door panels plus something flexible enough to bend around the back of the coupe from door to door. They had Masonite at about $10 a sheet, and for more flex there was some FRP with a pebble finish side at $22 marked down from $32 a sheet in almond color (who cares what color??) I may pick up a sheet of 1/8" Masonite and see if it will make the corner in back.

[Retired]

I was at Lowe's today looking at their materials. I need door panels plus something flexible enough to bend around the back of the coupe from door to door. They had Masonite at about $10 a sheet, and for more flex there was some FRP with a pebble finish side at $22 marked down from $32 a sheet in almond color (who cares what color??) I may pick up a sheet of 1/8" Masonite and see if it will make the corner in back.

Masonite doesn't have much give. Thin cheap wood paneling might give more. Wetting cheap wood paneling might give the flexing enough. The problem with wood paneling, it's kinda like plywood. Grains going different ways. I think I saw some plastic sheeting at either Lowes, or Home Depot I'm going to check out.

[rumrumm]

I used FRP (that's the plastic shower wall material, right?) for my door panels and kick panels but it does not bend well enough to use for any panel that is not flat. I used luan for the trunk for strength. But I found that upholsterer's water-resistant cardboard material worked best for the curved areas. You can also wet it and form it into a tighter curve if you need to. Here is an in-progress photo of the lower rear interior panel made from that material.

[rspears]

I used FRP (that's the plastic shower wall material, right?) for my door panels and kick panels but it does not bend well enough to use for any panel that is not flat. I used luan for the trunk for strength. But I found that upholsterer's water-resistant cardboard material worked best for the curved areas. You can also wet it and form it into a tighter curve if you need to. Here is an in-progress photo of the lower rear interior panel made from that material.

Lynn, that area behind the door is exactly what I'm talking about. Do you have a link to the upholsterer's material you refer to? I have not found it yet.

[rumrumm]

I got it from my upholsterer. I don't have a link--let me do some checking.

[slantback37]

I used cheap 1/8" paneling. I don't have any curves in the 37. The problem with masonite is that you don't want to get it wet.. It separates. All it is is tempered card paper. On the back side it is a good idea to run a vapor barrier. it also helps to keep the water from getting to the board. I am also thinking of using those steel clips that have a 1/2" head, and you have to drill a 1/4" hole in the door to push it threw.. i like the idea of the plastic plug though.. I had them on a Honda I did before the 37.
What is the name of that spry glue that you got at Wal-mart?? I to am on a budget.. That is why I am doing all of the work myself. Not looking for the Riddler here.. it will look good though.. Al

[Retired]

What is the name of that spry glue that you got at Wal-mart?? I to am on a budget.. That is why I am doing all of the work myself. Not looking for the Riddler here.. it will look good though.. Al

What I'm using is made by 3M General Trim Adhesive says.. Clear high strength adhesive. Great for headliners, lightweight fabrics, and carpets. Heat and moisture resisitant.

It works great but follow the directions. If you wait too long the glue no longer is tacty. Here's a photo of the can. Bought it in the auto section.

[rspears]

What I'm using is made by 3M General Trim Adhesive says.. Clear high strength adhesive. Great for headliners, lightweight fabrics, and carpets. Heat and moisture resisitant.

It works great but follow the directions. If you wait too long the glue no longer is tacty. Here's a photo of the can. Bought it in the auto section.

AutoZone and O'Reilly's also have 3M 08088 - labels are sometimes black with red print but the same stuff. It was recommended for sticking the foil backed insulation to the interior and worked great for me. One tip I will offer - a new can has a nice fan pattern covering 4+ inches, but as you use it and set it aside the nozzle tends to plug a bit yielding more of a stream spray which just makes a mess. Keep a little container of lacquer thinner nearby (I use a baby food jar) - drop the nozzle in, give it a few shakes, and it will be good as new again.

[rspears]

I did most of my interior myself. I don't sew so an acquaintance of mine who runs an upholstery shop covered the seat, dash, garnish mouldings and console. I did the rest. I used luan for the backing and Allante cream and faux ostrich vinyl for the fabric. Here are photos of the trunk showing the luan backing, foam and finished trunk.

Lynn,
How did you secure the luan plywood panels on the trunk? Velcro?

[rumrumm]

Yes, I used 1 1/2 inch wide commercial velcro. I put some fiberglass resin on the rear of the luan where the velcro was going to attach. That way the luan would not rip away from the velcro should I have to remove the panel. It was just a little added insurance.

[rumrumm]

The technical name of the backing material I used for the quarter panels is "cowl board." My source told me you should try to get it from an auto upholstery shop. The commercial vendors have a minimum order which is probably more than you would want. The stuff I used was tan on both sides, but there is another grade which is black on one side and tan on the other, and it is more expensive.

[rspears]

The technical name of the backing material I used for the quarter panels is "cowl board." My source told me you should try to get it from an auto upholstery shop. The commercial vendors have a minimum order which is probably more than you would want. The stuff I used was tan on both sides, but there is another grade which is black on one side and tan on the other, and it is more expensive.

Lynn,
I found this http://www.perfectfit.com/15347/Chip...anelboard.html but like you said their minimum is 4 sheets of the Kraft Board @ $7/sheet ($14/sheet for the black) plus another $22 for shipping. I'll check with a local upholstery shop for "cowl board" as you suggest. Thanks for the tip.