Thread: T/O Bearing problem.
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07-25-2006 11:34 AM #1
T/O Bearing problem.
sorry for the long post,
Ok starting out, replaced my transmission about a month ago. Before changing it out, I had a borg warner st-10 w/ 11" clutch 26spline... no problems until i chunked 1st gear... haha but anyhow thats not the problem. Replaced that transmission w/ an M21, again 11" clutch but replaced the whole clutch setup. Ran it for about a week and really had no problems. Eventually I noticed the pedal sort of sticking when i let the cluth out and it would jerk out suddenly. I traced the problem to the groove inside of the throwout brearing. Apparently the nose cone on this transmission was a tad bit shorter or something b/c once most of the grease worked out of the throwout bearing the groove began to clip the tip of the nosecone on the way back in. So i replaced the t/o bearing with one that had a slightly different grove on the inside, greased her up good and it worked great for a few weeks. Now im noticing the pedal getting sort of stiff again like it might start the same problem, so im kinda stuck and tired of taking it apart and putting it all back together.
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07-25-2006 12:09 PM #2
yo man got know how to fix ur problem but wanted to know what year ur camino is and what color and stuff like that hit me up
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07-26-2006 03:24 AM #3
1980, Black, 350 -4-bolt, 3.73 posi, Muncie 4speed. This is a recent picture.
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07-26-2006 05:13 AM #4
Been awhile since I did any Chevy clutches, but if I remember right there was a long and a short throwout bearing available to make up for the differences in the input shaft collars..... Hopefull one of the chevy guys will jump in. I've switched to the hydraulic throwout bearing and master cylinder on everything. The initial adjustment on them takes a bit longer, but they sure do hold up better then the mechanical linkage powered throwout bearings.Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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07-26-2006 07:19 AM #5
nice looking comino. if you put the short t/out bearing in place of the long you wouldn't be able to drive it at all, unless you had the clutch folk all out of shape. setting still with the bearing just touching the p/plate where is the arm. way back or way forward, or in the center of the bell housen hole? sure sounds like dave said, you have the short bearing and you need the long one.
ps-let me have that comino for about a mo. and let me cut on it a little.Last edited by lt1s10; 07-26-2006 at 07:22 AM.
Mike
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07-26-2006 07:42 AM #6
hmmm... ok just for a little more information, its a bigblock bellhousing from a mid 70's truck, 454, I believe, needed the larger housing for the 11" clutch, *original setup was 10.4"* the fork has freelplay and rides about center i guess. this problem only seems to happen once there is minimal grease in the I.D. of the bearing. Maybe I used the wrong type of grease??? i have no idea what it was I put in there or if it was high temp stuff.... the problem does get worse when im pushin 200*F.
here is a pic of what the t/o bearing looks like thats in there
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07-26-2006 08:03 AM #7
thats the short one, and i got a feeling you need the long one. you shouldn't need to put grease in the id of the bearing. thats not your problem.
is the p/plate the 3 finger type or the diaphragm type?Last edited by lt1s10; 07-26-2006 at 08:18 AM.
Mike
check my home page out!!!
http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html
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07-26-2006 09:23 AM #8
diaphram p/plate.... wouldn't you think if it was too short I would have had the problem the moment i put the car back on the ground??? it took about a month for it to start acting up again.
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