T/O Bearing problem.

sorry for the long post,

Ok starting out, replaced my transmission about a month ago. Before changing it out, I had a borg warner st-10 w/ 11" clutch 26spline... no problems until i chunked 1st gear... haha but anyhow thats not the problem. Replaced that transmission w/ an M21, again 11" clutch but replaced the whole clutch setup. Ran it for about a week and really had no problems. Eventually I noticed the pedal sort of sticking when i let the cluth out and it would jerk out suddenly. I traced the problem to the groove inside of the throwout brearing. Apparently the nose cone on this transmission was a tad bit shorter or something b/c once most of the grease worked out of the throwout bearing the groove began to clip the tip of the nosecone on the way back in. So i replaced the t/o bearing with one that had a slightly different grove on the inside, greased her up good and it worked great for a few weeks. Now im noticing the pedal getting sort of stiff again like it might start the same problem, so im kinda stuck and tired of taking it apart and putting it all back together.

yo man got know how to fix ur problem but wanted to know what year ur camino is and what color and stuff like that hit me up

1980, Black, 350 -4-bolt, 3.73 posi, Muncie 4speed. This is a recent picture.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...1028/paint.jpg

Been awhile since I did any Chevy clutches, but if I remember right there was a long and a short throwout bearing available to make up for the differences in the input shaft collars..... Hopefull one of the chevy guys will jump in. I've switched to the hydraulic throwout bearing and master cylinder on everything. The initial adjustment on them takes a bit longer, but they sure do hold up better then the mechanical linkage powered throwout bearings.

nice looking comino. if you put the short t/out bearing in place of the long you wouldn't be able to drive it at all, unless you had the clutch folk all out of shape. setting still with the bearing just touching the p/plate where is the arm. way back or way forward, or in the center of the bell housen hole? sure sounds like dave said, you have the short bearing and you need the long one. :eek:

ps-let me have that comino for about a mo. and let me cut on it a little.

hmmm... ok just for a little more information, its a bigblock bellhousing from a mid 70's truck, 454, I believe, needed the larger housing for the 11" clutch, *original setup was 10.4"* the fork has freelplay and rides about center i guess. this problem only seems to happen once there is minimal grease in the I.D. of the bearing. Maybe I used the wrong type of grease??? i have no idea what it was I put in there or if it was high temp stuff.... the problem does get worse when im pushin 200*F.

here is a pic of what the t/o bearing looks like thats in there

thats the short one, and i got a feeling you need the long one. you shouldn't need to put grease in the id of the bearing. thats not your problem. **)

is the p/plate the 3 finger type or the diaphragm type?

diaphram p/plate.... wouldn't you think if it was too short I would have had the problem the moment i put the car back on the ground??? it took about a month for it to start acting up again.

haha, yea i guess good point. The nose cone on the super t-10 must have been a tad longer than the one on this muncie... i never had problems with that setup. well i'll probably be tearing it apart anyhow so ill give the long bearing a shot, i should have enough play in the fork to fit it in there.**)

not being there to see what you have , its hard to tell. if its the rights set up and its going bad in 30 days, then you have some bad parts or something is out of adj. other wise ??????????:HMMM:

[quote=HellCaminoKid]haha, yea i guess good point. The nose cone on the super t-10 must have been a tad longer than the one on this muncie...

if thats true thats still not the reason you use short or long t/o bearing. the dif. is in the p/plate. :cool:

its a frustrating issue.... I've had it out and in 3 times in about a 2 month span. Instead of just getting the st-10 rebuilt I opted to change everything and put in the muncie that i knew was good.... saved me money at the time, but now its nothing but headaches... haha :whacked:

There is one thing that you said that bothers me some. You put grease in the I'D of the T/O Bearing. When the clutch is depressed the brg goes forward over the spline. If there is grease there it will wind up in your clutch maybe one reason its going out so fast. Change to the long brg. and NO GREASE. Should work fine.

OK, so heres the news. Tonight I went out and bough a Federal Mougal release bearing for pretty much any 60's - 90's non hydrolic GM clutch. This bearing was one of the self aligning ones which the one that was on the car was not. First tested it out on the quill of the transmission... didn't have as much freeplay as the other bearing on the shaft, good news so far. This new bearing was also different in the inner diameter. The groove where the antiseaze/grease was at the opposite side of the bearing.... hmmm... ok so what. Checked out the bellhouseing, fork, P/plate and anything else i could think of and put it all back together. Well besides the clutch needing a very small adjustment everything feels as smooth as butter. I guess we will see in about a month if the problem is fixed or just sort of pacified for now. Thanks again for everyongs input, gotta love this forum!!!