Thread: Front coil-overs

Tweet

Thanks Guys,
I was checking my graphs I make to check my radius swings of the arms, and camber gain. I have it set right now at a 3" up movement it tilts 3/8" top to bottom of a 26" tire @ 2.4 degrees good enough. I have 6 degrees anti-dive in the upper A arms mounts. the R&P I'm using lines up with the intersection of the upper and lower A frame pivot point, and level with the spindel arms, which means no bumb steer. But! I have to change the one I have, because Dave said, "You can't find the 16" mount one, use the 15.5" one.
I do need to find out (I'm going to get one later, after I move, but need the number now) what the width of the 15.5 rack is, at the inner pivot of the tie rod.

I already have the R&P mounts made, But not welded on yet.
I drew all this up about 5 years ago, then welded the frame up, using a frame jig I built to hold everything right on! not close. I welded every weld 4 times in steps, 1 to hold, and 3 to fill, and then I ground every weld to a smooth 5/8's radius! no filler You could say I had some time to kill at one time every thru hole has a tube in it . then I had to pick up all my toys and pack them to remodel the house, and sell it, that was three years ago and everthing is still packed. So I thought I would start to work on the suspension parts again.
All parts are made on jigs I made for each one. even made a jig to mount my A frame/anti-dive mounts. Shock mount are also made, but not welded on yet.
My front IRS is made from a Mustang II front end I had laying around, the only parts I used are the power R&P, spindels and brake parts. (new rotors and calipers) , mopar screw in ball joints, 1.00X.125 seamless tubing A frames & rear rods, I made all my own greaseable poly & steel suspension bushings everywhere, The top A frames are adjustable, the bottoms are not F&R. rear toe-in, caster, camber is adjustable, front & rear width hub to hub is 57", welded up the hubs & rotors and redrilled them all the same bolt pattern

The car also has a Nissan 300ZX posi IRS it it, so I had to make all the jigs for those A frames & rods also.

I have everything made, I just need to make the final adjustments to the front shocks, and make sure I have the front pivot points set right. The rear is all done, I need to weld the front shock mounts on and it will stand on it's tires. and then I can switch out the frames on the wifes '27 T Tudor Sedan

Dave, Thanks, I have the same charts, and more, but none tell me if I buy a 12" shock is it 12" extended all the way out, or at it's mid travel. or do I get a 12" and take 50-60 % off it's stroke and thats what I use? What is the actual stroke of a 12" shock?

I can tell you that 1 degree per inch is appox .017, but I cant figrue my shock lenght!

I'll ask you guys more yet! I just think I know it all!

Pat

I don't like it hanging on the wall, I want to set it on it's wheels