Thread: Front coil-overs

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Another chart you may want to look at deals with selecting spring rates based on the mounting angle of the coilovers.....It's on the Speedway Motors site. I've always used it and found it to be quite accurate!!!!

This is on the front of a "T", I don't have a lot of room for a top shock mount,(I already have a small bumb in the fenders for it) and the lower mount I can move to where I want it, but it will be welded in place once. I don't have bump stops in the front yet.

The front shocks sit at 27 degrees at ride height & 10.5 between shock mount, it can be made longer, but the shock will lay down more, which decrease the shock movement, which then I have to increase shock spring weight also.

Should I have some camber angle change when the wheels are raised (as hitting a bump in the road) mine now are set for .035 change (tire lean) in a 4" stroke. If I raise the lower "A" frame inner mount up 1.875, I get 1" lean on the tire, in a 4" stroke. The more I can raise it the better.

Pat

I got my instruction by reading Carroll Smith's books and as I remember it all came together for me after Tune To Win. I had read many other author's offerings, but they stopped short of really explaining how to design the system. Smith explained how to play with paper dolls to scale (I didn't have the advantage of software as you do). I played with it, re-positioning everything until I had minimum scrub, 3 degrees of camber gain in 4 1/2 inches of bump and zero bump steer through 9 inches of travel. The camber gain was achieved with the angle of the upper control arm while the lower arm was flat. The lower the frame mount end of the upper control arm is, relative to the ball joint end, the more camber gain you will achieve.

By the way, I have seen ball joint extenders for sale that allow more camber gain by angling the upper arm.