Thread: New build....brakes not cooperating

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Originally Posted by lodilobo

Sorry...I thought I clarified earlier....the master cylinder is mounted below the calipers. The brakes are Strange discs, all components are new, except the 2# residual valves, which are installed in the front and rear lines. I ordered new residual valves and will get them tomorrow. I just don't have a lot of confidence in that being the problem. Thanks for all the suggestions.

when i my built my race GTO i hade a line lock .wilwood disc front and back . i just had a proportion valve that i could adjust brake bias master was mount on the floor as the engine was moved back 5 inchs. i did use residual check valves#2s . the stander master many resell under there name. but is mopar master with a 1 1/16 bore i used this master on all my cars . was told at the time to put residual check valves as close as i could to the master and i did . after many bleeding the master i had good pedal was a pain in the ass. but had more parts in the system and alot them 1/8 npt to female inverted flare as for that guy should be shot for that ideal . it was a uphill battle to get sealed up . if you have a power bleeder un hook the pedal push rod then bleed it then hook up the pedal push rod if pedal feels better need to work on the push rod and check that there is nothing a the way holding pedal travle back. some proportion valves like gm 1971to77 had some residual presure built in for better braking feel. if you feel every thing is right then look at the master sucking air. if you want a cheat some lets say the rotors you have are 375 thick go find a cunk of metal about same in size unbolt the caliper lay on the floor or milk crate still hook up then bleed them that way master not level they will bleed better