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Thread: 1932 ford disc brakes locking up
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Bob o is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by DA34GUY View Post
    Back the push rod off 1/16th and put a pedal return spring on it.
    As yer driving the pedal is bouncing and creating pressure to the master.
    Do that and problem solved.
    The weird part is it's worked fine for about 6 years without the spring. The only change is the master cylinder

  2. #2
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe, '32 HiBoy Roadster
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob o View Post
    The weird part is it's worked fine for about 6 years without the spring. The only change is the master cylinder
    Did you look at posts #13 & 14?
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  3. #3
    Bob o is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    Did you look at posts #13 & 14?
    I just saw 13 and 14 it has only had dot three fluid in it and at this point I have bleed them several times so the fluid is crystal clear coming out. The rear brakes are not locking up only the fronts. The rubber brake lines were installed new in 2008 with the disc brake conversation. I thought about the lines but that also seems odd that both lines went out at the same time?

  4. #4
    ojh
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob o View Post
    I just saw 13 and 14 it has only had dot three fluid in it and at this point I have bleed them several times so the fluid is crystal clear coming out. The rear brakes are not locking up only the fronts. The rubber brake lines were installed new in 2008 with the disc brake conversation. I thought about the lines but that also seems odd that both lines went out at the same time?
    If you think about it, it would make perfect sense that both (all three?) lines would go out at the same time, because whatever affected one line would affect the others as well. I'll admit the possibility small since the fluid is DOT 3. At this point I'd sacrifice a brake line and cut it in half to see if it has swollen, I had one last month that I couldn't stick a tig welding rod thru. You've changed all but the concrete the car is sitting on, not much else it can be. Just let us know, ok?
    A Carter Carb Shop, sales & service

  5. #5
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by ojh View Post
    If you think about it, it would make perfect sense that both (all three?) lines would go out at the same time, because whatever affected one line would affect the others as well. I'll admit the possibility small since the fluid is DOT 3. At this point I'd sacrifice a brake line and cut it in half to see if it has swollen, I had one last month that I couldn't stick a tig welding rod thru. You've changed all but the concrete the car is sitting on, not much else it can be. Just let us know, ok?
    Do what ojh says, and sacrifice one line to eliminate them from the equation. If you find it swollen and restricting change them all, but also consider that you may have a contaminated system, and if you do every rubber component is going to be suspect for failure. Is it possible that your Dad purged the system and used DOT 5 fluid when he did the earlier brake work?
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

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