Thread: 1932 ford disc brakes locking up

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Bobo


You need a support/stop for the pedal somewhere so the spring can pull the pedal back to the same spot all the time---THEN ADJUST for the 1/16 or so clearance where the push rod seats against the piston in the master--------


Does your master have the shallow or deep recess for the push rod??????????


When swapping master cyls, there are at least two different length master cyl push rods coming OUT of the booster. To fit different depth master cyls. The rod can be removed from the booster by pulling on it. It has an O ring on it. If the master cyl you get is deeper where the pushrod goes, you either have to swap the pushrod, or you can cut a length of rod or bolt and put it inside the master cyl to make it the same as the shorter drum brake master cyl. If the rod is too long you can cut it.
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES USE A SHORT DEPTH MASTER ON A MANUAL SYSTEM. THE PUSHROD CAN FALL OUT AND YOU WILL HAVE NO BRAKES!

If the push rod is the wrong length, your brakes will lock or not work at all!

Jerry. The master cylinder is a model #10-1521 it's for mid 70's Chevy passenger cars. The hole for the push rod is about 3/8 deep. Not sure if that's considered shallow or not??? The brake pedal has a stop just nothing supporting the push rod. My plan is to fab up a small sleeve for the push rod to ride thru so it can't pop out?? What do you think?