Thread: Welding sheet metal

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Wow Lot's of info Guy's: I've got all the time in the world and lots of patients.
I know I can handle the welding but getting to the inside to seal it is gonna be more of a problem. Dave I'm curious about that weld thru primer, Do they have those in spaycans?
Also should the bottom of the fenders have holes drilled in them for condensation or should they be totally sealed? I would prefer to totally seal them to keep crap out of the fenders, like sand, dirt and water. If you say keep it sealed, I was thinking of sraycans with a spaytube. I was thinking of making small pin holes for tube to go thru and spaying around inside the holes, then spot weld the hole's back in. Would this work or is this not a good idea? Also how good would that weld thru primer work for this? Thanks guys Kurt

I don't leave or make drain holes, seems they draw in as much moisture as they allow to exit.

Weld thru primer does come in a spray can, just keep the tip clean and it works great. They clog up real easy

If you want to spray the insides thru an access hole, I think it's a good plan.. I usually go buy a handful of rubber push in plugs, then drill the hole the appropriate size and put the plug in with some seam sealer around and on it when I'm done.

When to stop cutting out rust is important as several have said. I tried welding a patch to an area that should have been cut out. Instead of attacing my patch, I made a hole! The above info on welder settings is the next step. No one weld perfectly the first time. Welding is askill. Practice Good luck.

well if it had a drain hole i put one in and if its the lowest part of the body panel i put one in were water will fill up and not drain out like doors and front fenders deck lids if it hold water it is going to rust or if air can not get in it will rust if it is sealed up to good it will hold moister and rust so it is a good ideal to add drain holes but if your building a boat or a zip lock bag then do not. as for weld thru primer i have seen it rust so if your not over lapping you do not need it. you woud be better off with a epoxy or etch i done it both ways with weld thru and not it just not as good as it could be . i have used all of it out there. i have hang alot of new steel as much or more then many. on new cars and old cars i used it but on sheet metal frame rail core suports rocker pillars and clips etc i wash them with thinner and red scuff pad evey thing and used ppg dp 40 or etch weld thru is only made of over laps and for plug welding i allways tried when done to spray a top coat over it .the way i did it was to sand it were there is no over lap and put down some coats epoxy or etch primer to seal it then i shot non drying amber uncoating in side of all seams till it driping out of joints and hit it one more time

yup, that's what the weld thru primer is designed to be used as.... anyplace there will be an overlap that you can't get at when the welding is done. Etch prime is a waaaaaay better product, I have welded over panels that wer coated with etch prime, it can be welded to, just a bit of spatter at the start of the weld, then it welds ok.

[QUOTE=vara4;339364]
I know I can handle the welding but getting to the inside to seal it is gonna be more of a problem. [QUOTE]

I would use a product like this to keep Rust from forming on the inside of your Panels:

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT

[QUOTE]
I'm curious about that weld thru primer, Do they have those in spaycans? [QUOTE]

Weld thru primer works great for most things, but stay away from SEM (and a few others)-they produce "spatter" welds-look for a spray that is high in zinc (which is what is in Weld-thru Primer), although as stated above I wouldn't use it anywhere other than flanges or rosette welded seams-

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT