Thread: Project Special K

Tweet

I got my American Autowire kit in the mail today. This is the bomb as my wife likes to say. Very well laid out, with wiring by systems packages, A=engine starting and running, includes new keyed GM style ignition switch, B= charging systems, C=Head lights and comes with dash light switch, and floor push button dimmer switch, D= turns signals, etc... So you only add what you need, connecting to their fuse box as you go, no dangling wire mess!
Also comes with 175 amp master fusable link, which you can remove, that works great as an anti theft deterant(when removed)!
I'm very happy with it. So just have to finish bleeding brakes, then start wiring, which is exciting, because once it is wired, I can start putting all of the aluminum performance parts on it to lighten the load, and increase the performance. I think, come this summer, I'll pull the engine and work on cleaning up the engine bay, having the rewelding of the motor mounts done, to the correct engine angle, and continue the rust removal process for the body. This fall I hope to have the financial reserves to purchase a good welder, and start doing little metal repair projects. But I am still on track to get it road worthy for Petaluma Salute to American Graffeti Days in May. I won't drive it more than a mile that day. But by next year, should be able to uase it when ever, where ever( all driven by finances to get things, and make it safe!)

Stovens,we got that about 2-3 days back from Golly Adams,and yes it touches raw nerves,I lost my shepherd many years back about ten days before Christmas,what a bitch of a Christmas that was for me.All too true,but do try to live up to the ideals in the message.

I found two solutions to the engine angle issue.
Option A
Classic Performance parts, makes a cross bar with motor mounts for my truck that is a bolt in application. They make it for several different motor applications as well. It looks fairly straight foward from the directions they emailed me yesterday. The also make a similar cross member for the tranny. The engine one is about 109.00 and the tranny is 49.00. All in all, not bad, just have to get a cherry picker that will clear the truck with the engine. Option B
A friend who is a car mechanic said he could do it( not sure for how much, but I'll have him take a look at it when he gets back from vacation.

I like plan A because it gives me access to the engine compartment without anything in my way to clean it up and repaint the fire walls. Plan B is appealing, since I don't have to buy anything, tools or otherwise, and Randy does good work.
Shop space is at a premium, so not buying a cherry picker is a good thing. Unlike a lot of you guys, this will be my last car project(I think )
So extra tools that won't get much use are always decissions to be weighed!
Anyway, I'm off to work on the brake linkage to see if I can get a smaller piece of theaded rod for the linkage, or I will have to cut it shorter.Steve.

Gotta love my wife. She helped bleed the brakes with me today, after I got the linkage in. I had a few leaks here and there, but got most of them stopped. On the new brake calibers for the disc front brakes, they seem to seep a little fluid. Maybe I'm missing something. They came with new hoses, two copper washers for each hose, I'm assuming for either side of the hose where it connects to the caliber. Let me know if you have experienced similar things and might know what to do. I also for the first time drove it into the garage and was able to stop it with the brake pedal! Great feeling!
Next the wiring kit!

Good progress, Steve!!!!! I've been trying to teach my dog how to help do things like bleed brakes, etc... So far all he wants to do is just lay down on your lap when you're sitting on the floor working on stuff.... He's really fun when you have to do something on the creeper....

On the front caliper leak, sometimes it helps to scuff up the copper washers with a piece of 220 grit paper... They're not always real flat as they should be either... I've had to sand them down on many cars to get a leak free fitting... Sometimes even a bit of time with a very fine file before sanding if they're real nasty.

Thanks Dave, this will be my Easter day project!
I know what you mean about the dog. He always drops a tennis ball on me when I'm under the truck!

So I thought I'd move on to the wiring harness today, only to do some stop and think stuff. I really should pull the engine and clean out the engine bay, paint it and put the motor mounts in the right way, do all the engine stuff while it's out of the car, and then remove the dash sand , rust stabilize and paint tthe inside of the cab, before the wiring gets done, otherwise I'll have to remove it and do it again, later!, I hate it when the brain red flags the work before I've even started! So now I'm looking at engine stands to hold the 460 while it's out of the truck. I't cheaper to rent a cherry picker to pull the engine one day and to put it back another day when I'm done than to buy a cheap one and have another tool lying around that won't get much use. The stand is probablya necessary buy item. Any idea how much a 71 ford 460 weighs so I know what size stand to buy?

Them 460's will make a believer out of you weight-wise........when I started building my 460 I realized why I played with 302's all my life! The crank alone will give you a hernia.

My advice is to not only buy a good engine stand, but also to invest in your own engine lift. You will be amazed at how many times you use it once you own one. Harbor Freight runs sales on them and engine stands all the time, and they really aren't too bad. I can take mine apart and stand it in a corner in about 10 minutes, but we use it so often I just keep it together.

You will be also be amazed how many times your engine will be in and out again, and if you rent one you have to run to the rental place each time and give them money you could be spending toward owning your own.

Just my opinion.

Don

I'll think about it Don. I like the foldable one. I'm just not sure if I can clear the engine out of the truck with it. The front of the truck is 40 inches tall, the engine is about 24-26 inches tall. I bought a stand from Napa that looks pretty stable, can pivot the engine 360 degrees and hold 750lbs, I figure I'll take the intake off and the fan and water pump. That should take 60-80 lbs off the 720lbs weight. It does make sense having a picker, just starting to get tight in the shop again with the stuff I have. Plus the front hood will need a place to live as well. Maybe it'll live outside this summer so that will make some space!
Denny, I hope the 750 stand will do it, if not, I'll have to look elsewhere.Thanks.

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

Them 460's will make a believer out of you weight-wise........when I started building my 460 I realized why I played with 302's all my life! The crank alone will give you a hernia.

My advice is to not only buy a good engine stand, but also to invest in your own engine lift. You will be amazed at how many times you use it once you own one. Harbor Freight runs sales on them and engine stands all the time, and they really aren't too bad. I can take mine apart and stand it in a corner in about 10 minutes, but we use it so often I just keep it together.

You will be also be amazed how many times your engine will be in and out again, and if you rent one you have to run to the rental place each time and give them money you could be spending toward owning your own.

Just my opinion.

Don

Ok so I was watching the harbor freight sight for a foldable 2 ton engine crane, and they weren't going on sale, so I figured suck it up and buy one for 209.00. So I called the Santa Rosa store nearest me to see if they had any in stock. Turns out they had four, all on special in store sale for 149.00. Well that clinched it so I hustled up there this afternoon and got one, as well as a load leveler that the guy who helped me swore would pay for itself when it came time to dropping the engine in an d out to make it easy to angle it. It was twentynine bucks, so I got it. Also a cheap detail/spot sprayer for 19 dollars, which will be great for sraying the interior as well as the frame and engine bay. I hate to say it but you can't beat their prices for the seldom used tools that normally cost a fortune. The lift is very nice, looks just like the one Denny posted a picture of, only it folds up. Pretty easy assembly too.
Now I just have to pull the beast, and get someone to help during that process! Life is good!

I have one of those engine hoists I got at Pep Boys. Pretty much the same as Harbor Freight. You can lift an engine - even a heavy one - with the plate that bolts to the intake. Don't worry about the 1/4 or 5/16 carb bolts being strong enough. They are more than safe. I lifted a 454, complete with accessories, scattershield and top-loader that way.

The other option is a chain bolted to front and rear accessory bolt holes in the head. You can go from right front to left rear, for example with one chain and have plenty of strength.

Henry
In highschool, we used a chain that way on my old 302, stuffed a 2x4 thru the chain and muscled it out. I was a lot younger, and the engine was a lot lighter, back then. Ste ve

I got a picker from harbor freight on sale at $99.99 plus shipping. It lifted my small block Mopar into and out of the bed of my pickup with no problems.

Getting ready to install the new fiberglass running boards. I noticed they are not predrilled. Since I haven't used fiberglass panels before any tips on installing them would be appreciated. I'm also not sure what to bolt them in with and how tight to snug down the bolts without cracking the fiberglass. Thanks for the help!

Originally Posted by stovens

Getting ready to install the new fiberglass running boards. I noticed they are not predrilled. Since I haven't used fiberglass panels before any tips on installing them would be appreciated. I'm also not sure what to bolt them in with and how tight to snug down the bolts without cracking the fiberglass. Thanks for the help!

Steve,
A picture of your mounting method might help, but with out a visual glass gives you some options. You might be able to grind out a "recess" and glass in a few properly sized plates of strap steel with a stud welded on each one if you want to maintain the smooth outside surface with no bolts showing. Are your boards going to be for looks, or are you expecting them to be used for entry/exit? That might affect the mounting approach, too.