Thread: Subframe connectors

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Well, suit yourself..... the one's that just weld on the ends probably do help a little,,,,but a bit more cutting, fitting, and welding will improve the rigidity a whole bunch more..... I guess I never have been willing to settle for a little bit better when a whole lot better is just a bit more work. The frame ties don't have to protrude all the way up and kill your seat room... If they are only 1/4" to 1/2" above the floor, just enough to get a good weld, that's plenty.

As for Alston's, I've used some of their stuff but for something as simple as subframe connectors I just fab my own usually for less then what the freight charges alone would be to ship a set.... That way you can tailor the fit to your floor pan and torque box, and not put up with what some manufacturer thought would be the ultimate setup. It's the little things that separate the winners from the also-rans.....

If I were trying to make a max effort race car, I would cut, weld and fab a far stronger chassis. I would also run an auto instead of a toploader. Oh, and a 532 instead of a 390 FE.
Point being, I just want to stiffen the body and have a little fun with the car.

I agree with 41willys, I also think that notching the floor will give you the best results.

Here are a few pictures of my installations of them on my 67 cougar.

Yup, Just like Dave and Ted said, if you're gonna do it, do it right the first time. It is always a pain in the @$$ to do it over again, just ask those of us who have learned the hard way.
John