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Does anyone have experience with different weld-in subframe connectors for 67-68 Mustangs? I've read of fit problems with some kits, and want as clean an installation as I can get without relocating or modifying the spring mount. I've noticed a couple paint cracks from chassis flex when launching and want to stop it now.
Maybe ask John Calvert at Cal Tracs
I am running the original dealer option traction bars and they work well. What I need is connectors to eliminate chassis flex. It never occurred to me to call him about just connectors, though. Thanks
For what it is worth, I installed 2 sets of frame connectors in Mustangs, one was a 66 fast back with a 460 and one a 67 notch back with a 428. The only good way is to notch the floor and weld them in solid. Any thing else tends to defeat the purpose. On the BBF 67 I tried the straight bolt in ones first which used a 2x2 x1/8" wall tube, but it still allowed the body to twist badly. We even tried to fish plate and bolt through the floor to it but it actually ripped a couple of the plates loose. We finally made a new set of 3/16 wall 2x3 tubes, scribed along both sides of the 2x2 rails, notched the floor to match, and welded them in solid. You loose some of the rear foot well but you won't have anyone in the back seat anyway. It made a huge difference in the launch characteristics of both cars.
On the 66 we had to fab new torque boxes anyway so we just made new front rails and extended them all the way back notching the floor and incorporated new spring cups.
Check Chris Alston Chassis, they have tech articles that walk you through the installation. I think its even on your same year mustank. Just kidding!, Check the site.
I'm with 41 Willys. I won't even bother putting them in if I can't notch the floor. The bolt on and the weld on's that just go under the floor or not much more then eye candy. No reason to tie the front to the back if you can't tie in the center, too.
Checked the site, and the only subframe build I saw was replacing the rear rails, tubbing it and replacing floor sections. A bit more than I want to do to this car.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigTruckDriver
I don't understand why connectors would be thought of as "eye candy". It may not be as extensive (or rigid) as back-halfing a car, but certainly better than transferring all the load through the floor and roof.
No , I think the eye candy that was talked about was "BOLT ON" and WELD IN that go under the floor.
Read what I said again.... My statement was subframe connectors that were not welded to the floor as well as the front and rear subframe structures are eye candy.....Quote:
Originally Posted by bb427stang
I shouldn't have mixed my response to BigTruckDriver and you together.... made it look like I thought you mentioned Alston. What threw me off was "The bolt on and the weld on's that just go under the floor or not much more then eye candy." Without cutting the car (notching the floor), my options are limited. Others with 65-69 Mustangs have noticed a considerable improvement with weld-ons... there's no way I would just bolt on a set.
Well, suit yourself..... the one's that just weld on the ends probably do help a little,,,,but a bit more cutting, fitting, and welding will improve the rigidity a whole bunch more..... I guess I never have been willing to settle for a little bit better when a whole lot better is just a bit more work. The frame ties don't have to protrude all the way up and kill your seat room... If they are only 1/4" to 1/2" above the floor, just enough to get a good weld, that's plenty.
As for Alston's, I've used some of their stuff but for something as simple as subframe connectors I just fab my own usually for less then what the freight charges alone would be to ship a set.... That way you can tailor the fit to your floor pan and torque box, and not put up with what some manufacturer thought would be the ultimate setup. It's the little things that separate the winners from the also-rans.....
If I were trying to make a max effort race car, I would cut, weld and fab a far stronger chassis. I would also run an auto instead of a toploader. Oh, and a 532 instead of a 390 FE.
Point being, I just want to stiffen the body and have a little fun with the car.
I agree with 41willys, I also think that notching the floor will give you the best results.
Here are a few pictures of my installations of them on my 67 cougar.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...connectors.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...rameconnt2.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...onnectors3.jpg
Yup, Just like Dave and Ted said, if you're gonna do it, do it right the first time. It is always a pain in the @$$ to do it over again, just ask those of us who have learned the hard way.
John