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Thread: Stripped wheel stud question
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    63BoxNova's Avatar
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    Stripped wheel stud question

     



    Hey everyone,
    I managed to strip out one of my rear wheel studs. They are the screw-in type studs, not the push-in type (they have a 6 point bolt head and screw in form the backside of the axle flange). In my haste to unscrew the stuck nut it appears the threads on the stud also skipped inside the axle flange and now the stud is frozen soild in the axle. Yep, I really made a mess.

    Im trying to figure out how to get this stud out. Im thinking I should cut the stud up to the axle flange and then drill it out, then try to retap the threads on the axle (by the way, its a 1/2-20 thread). Will this work? Anyone have any better ideas? If that doesnt work should I ram a push-in type stud in there?

    Thanks in advance for your advice.
    Last edited by 63BoxNova; 08-26-2007 at 07:30 PM.

  2. #2
    pro70z28's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 70 Camaro Z-28 Now/40 Chevy Back Then
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    I'd drill it for an e-z out first. Try to salvage what you can. I don't think I'd put a drive in stud in a threaded hole though.
    "PLAN" your life like you will live to 120.
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  3. #3
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
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    If the easy-out doesn't work, I don't see anything wrong with a drive-in stud. It's common technology.
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

  4. #4
    gassersrule_196's Avatar
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    really? our 63 had press in studs

  5. #5
    63BoxNova's Avatar
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    Not a stock rear...then again not much on the car is stock anymore. Its a 9" made by Strange Engineering...
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    Last edited by 63BoxNova; 08-26-2007 at 09:15 PM.

  6. #6
    pro70z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
    If the easy-out doesn't work, I don't see anything wrong with a drive-in stud. It's common technology.

    My only concern would be a bad fit. If it drives in solid maybe, but would it?

    63BoxNova how much Torque are you puttin' through that 9"? What size studs are they? Do you race it on a track?
    Last edited by pro70z28; 08-27-2007 at 05:30 AM.
    "PLAN" your life like you will live to 120.
    "LIVE" your life like you could die tomorrow.

    John 3:16
    >>>>>>

  7. #7
    63BoxNova's Avatar
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    Im putting just over 400 ft/lbs torque to the rear (ZZ4 crate motor). This car doesnt visit the track, only the street. I know the screw in studs are overkill for my application, but it doesnt hurt.....well, except for now that I have to change one!

  8. #8
    R Pope is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    If the threads are screwed, use a helicoil.

  9. #9
    Stu Cool's Avatar
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    If you really want it fixed right, pull the axle and take it to a machine shop. Not that hard to do on a 9 inch. I would question if a helicoli would be a good solution on a bolt that is given horizontal pressure. You might also call Strange and ask their advice.

    Pat
    Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!

  10. #10
    63BoxNova's Avatar
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    Success!!!
    I drilled out the stud, and fortunately I was able to retap the threads in the axle flange. Put in the new stud, washed my hands, and went for a cruise. Finally a fix that went smoothly.

  11. #11
    Stu Cool's Avatar
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    Way to go! Hope you smoked 'em a couple times just to test your work!
    Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!

  12. #12
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    i have used the drive studs and used the cap screws to i have used the moser kit with the 5/8 drive studs i tack the stud in with a tig on the heads if bolts or the nuts on the drive studs if it turns and spins out the threads you will have a hell of a time getting the rim off if the stud is spinning with the lug nut
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

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